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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In process of rebuilding my 18 ft. dovetail. All new bushings, tires, wheels, lights etc.

Back to the paint pissing match.........:flipoff2:

Flap wheeled the shit out of it and rolled on TSC Red Oxide primer.

Contractor guy working on the house is saying the TSC Black with Hardener didn't work well for him. Faded in a year or so.
He used Rustoleum Black for the top coat and it seemed to have more solids, better finish/shine and has lasted longer then the TSC stuff.
I can return the TSC Black and hardener so my options are open.

What say the PBB crew ?

Fenders off and the 12 ton Jackstands are now holding it up a foot or two higher.


Racelines to replace the white spokers.


White Diamond polish stuff really shines the diamond plate up. Sharkhide protects and keeps the shine. Good shit both.
 

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I've tried the TSC paint a couple times and it just doesn't hold up as well and fades faster than the rustoleum.

I like rustoleum thinned with acetone and some TSC hardener mixed it. It seems to hold up pretty well.
 

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I was wondering about adding the TSC hardener to the Rusto. Seemed like a good idea. Thanks for the advice.
I haven't had any problem with it, I've used the TSC hardener, automotive clear coat hardener and automotive paint acrylic/enamel hardener without issues.

That's another thing I like about Rustoleum is it isn't picky and turns out decent.
 

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Don't have any experience with the TSC brand, but the Rust oleum has worked and held up well on our trailers and equipment. We've been using it for several years now.
 

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The TSC Tractor and Implement paint from Valspar was pretty good. Then they went and switched to the Majic crap - absolute garbage.

Some ACE Hardware stores carry the Valspar stuff. A local “mom & pop” hardware store also carries it.
 

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I brushed on Rustoleum Hammered black. It's nice and thick, seems to hold its shine, durable and prep is minimal. Got rid of any loose rust or peeling paint, wiped down with wax/grease remover and went at it. It is more of a charcoal than black but I'm fine with that...

Used the crappiest throw-away brush I could find and brush strokes don't show as long as you're laying it on thick enough
 

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I've tried the TSC paint a couple times and it just doesn't hold up as well and fades faster than the rustoleum.

I like rustoleum thinned with acetone and some TSC hardener mixed it. It seems to hold up pretty well.
^^^^

I don't like the TSC paint either. Im also a Rustoleum fam, buy it by the gallon at Home Depot. Auto body hardener and TSC hardener should be similar enough.

You need a thinner (reducer) to get the paint to level out whether ou spray, brush, or roll. Acetone flashes very fast, use Naphtha if it's at all hot outside. Thanks to @IDASHO, naphtha is now my go-to reducer.
 

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I have two steel deck trailers and I did both with Rustoleum and a plain old short nap roller. I'd just pour it straight on to the deck and spread it with the roller. Used a brush and/or rattle can on the parts the roller couldn't hit. Came out great and I just keep a rattle can handy for a quick touch up when a scratch starts rusting or something.
 

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I have two steel deck trailers and I did both with Rustoleum and a plain old short nap roller. I'd just pour it straight on to the deck and spread it with the roller. Used a brush and/or rattle can on the parts the roller couldn't hit. Came out great and I just keep a rattle can handy for a quick touch up when a scratch starts rusting or something.
Try some reducer + hardener. Forserious. Lays out smoother, dries faster, cures harder, glossy longer.


I definitely agree on using a commercial Rustoleum product for ease of touchup with a matching rattle can.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks good Nasty but you go some on the sticker. :flipoff2:

Ended up with the Rusto Gloss. Couldn't find the Hammered. Didn't try too hard though.

Used a short nap roller and the TSC hardener. Wish I`d of known to thin the paint a bit though. Read the can and it said thinning not recommended unless spraying. Figured the more solids the better so followed that logic. Between the nap and the out of the can paint the finish ended up being "Hammered" on it`s own. Not too worried about it as the texture will make rattle can touch up`s that much easier to blend in. PITA is that I spent so much time sanding the old finish down so the new would lay nice and smooth.....Temp was mid 60`s and the humidity was in the 50`s so again I figured it would self level on its own. The hardener really made the paint glossy (1 can to the gallon) and by the next day the leftover in the paint tray was solid.

LED`s from SuperBright. New brakes and breakaway/charger from eTrailer.

The brakes look identical right down to the holograph decals to the Dexter parts I bought last summer. So the 30 bucks a loaded plate was worth it.

Fixed a couple wiring problems where the insulation had worn through. Then used weatherpacks for the brake connectors rather then crimp on`s..

My future SIL turned my on to the White Diamond metal polish from Advance. This shit really works well. A Mothers ball followed by a Dewalt right angle buffer made the old aluminum fenders and tool box like mirrors.

White Diamond Multipurpose Metal Polish and Sealant 01: Advance Auto Parts

The pictures don't do the tread plate justice. They still need to wiped down with lacquer thinner to get all the black out.


You can see the celling reflection in this picture.


SharkHide Metal Protectant to keep that gloss.
Sharkhide

Talked to the owner guy at SharkHide as some of the independent reviews were critical of turning gloss to satin or streaks etc. He was a pretty cool guy. He explained how his product worked, why folks would have problems and how best to apply it. Ended up ordering a couple cans. I`ll do the Racelines on the Jeep with the WD and SH over the winter also. A buddy of mine uses it on his snowmobile trailer and swears by it. I`ll see how it works for me in the long term but for now I`m happy.

Thanks again to those whom steered me away from the TSC "Magic" paint.
 
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