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FOF
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Discussion Starter #1
I was searching looking for info on what is required for trailer safety chains and found this.....



We use either 5/16 high test or 3/8 high test. On a bumper pull trailer you have to have two chains. The rating of the two chains combined must meet the gvwr rating of the trailer to be legal. The hooks must also be rated for the gvwr and must have the retaining clip on them. The chains must cross under the coupler when hooked to the truck. That way if the coupler comes off, the chains create a basket for the coupler to fall into. Technically, the chains have to be tight enough that if off, the coupler won't hit the ground. This way you have a better chance of coming to a slow and controlled stop.

A goose neck only requires one chain, but that one chain must carry a rating equal or greater to the gvwr of the trailer.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507212&highlight=safety+chain




It leaves me with a couple of questions. If I have a Carson 7000lbs car hauler trailer and I run 2 5/16" high test safety chains what are acceptable means of attaching the chains to the trailer and to the tow rig hitch? Is it ok to weld high test chain?








I copied and pasted this from another site.



Grade 70 Transport Chain Specifications

Size 5/16
Working Load Limit (lbs) 4700

Size 3/8
Working Load Limit (lbs) 6600

Size 1/2
Working Load Limit (lbs) 11300

Size 5/8
Working Load Limit (lbs) 15800










.
 

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On my trailer, they just welded basically a U bolt in the front where the A Frame comes together. The only problem is there's no way to cross the chains though.
Big Bubba trailer
I guess it must be ok?
 

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FOF
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Discussion Starter #3
My trailer came with a single 5/16" standard chain. It looks like it would be rated at


Size (in.) 5/16
Working Load Limit (lbs.) 1,900



How can Carson sell a 7000 lbs trailer with this saftey chain? I know that Carson is't exactly the best trailer out there but it should meet basic requirements. Now my trailer dose have hydraulic surge brakes and a saftey cable that activates the brakes if the trailer breaks away but I dont think that would change what saftey chain is required.
 

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I bolted my chain through the frame with some big washers; all grade 8 hardware.

After the trailer incident, I found the 1/8" wall alone to be a little thin as there was a little (very little) deformation in the middle of one of the I-beams. The washers weren't phased, nore did the bolt appear to be.

I'll be adding a 6"x8" section of some 3/16" or 1/4" plate to the back side of the frame for the bolt to pass through. Going that thick because I have some scraps that size kicking around.

btw - forget these types of hooks:



I had one come off, the clip unscathed. Made me glad each chain I run is rated for 6600lbs. Not that the chain rating matters much if the ears on your receiver aren't rated for the same or more. for now I still use those, when I get a chance I'll find something else that is better.

Next time I hookup I'll try this way:


The problem is, I think the hoko is a little too big to fit in the ear that way.
 

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The law here is only that it must hold your trailer when it comes off (unloaded). I called the highway patrol about it. I actually have to demonstrate that the safety chains will hold from 10 mph.

They said they had a guy come in with safety chains made from a dog chain, but it held, so it was legal.:eek:
 

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I would consider dog chain crazy too, but I didn't make the laws. *shrug*

My chains are 3/8", I don't think they're going anywhere, I'm not worried about it.

Edit: I hook mine with the open part of the hook facing the trailer like the picture travis posted. Oddly, we found that if the open part of the hook faces forward, it would throw the chains off when they hit roadkill. With the open part of the hook facing the trailer, they stay on.:confused:
 

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btw - forget these types of hooks:



I had one come off, the clip unscathed.
of course you also had your trailer come off the ball with the coupler still clamped down :eek: you must have seriously angered the towing gods somehow ;)

ive always used those hooks and never had one come off. i have had the little S ones come off a couple times on my small utility trailer.
 

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I looked at my trailer today to see how the chains were put on. They cut a horizontal slit through the tongue on each side to push a link through. On the inside of the tongue, they ran a vertical rod (as big as you can get through the link) through the link, and welded the rod into the tongue. I kind of like the idea, since there's no weakening of the chain that way.
 

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FOF
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Discussion Starter #11
I looked at my trailer today to see how the chains were put on. They cut a horizontal slit through the tongue on each side to push a link through. On the inside of the tongue, they ran a vertical rod (as big as you can get through the link) through the link, and welded the rod into the tongue. I kind of like the idea, since there's no weakening of the chain that way.




I like that idea, but if you have hardened chain the rod would be the week link unless you used rod of equivalant strength.
 

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I like that idea, but if you have hardened chain the rod would be the week link unless you used rod of equivalant strength.
Nope, because the links are 3/8", and the piece between them is MUCH thicker. Now, I guess you might be right, and the numbers might be a little off, but it's not like a 3/16" g70 chain with only a plain piece of 3/8" rod holding it. The rod is the biggest possible thing you can fit through the link.
 

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Safety chain CAN NOT be welded straight to the trailer. This weakens the chain and is also illegal in most states. You can attach them via cold roll of equal or greater size, or bolt them on with a bolt of equal or great rated strength. This is all relative in the fact that a cop is no way going to know the rating of a bolt used on your trailer. But, if the coupler comes off and the chains break free and the trailer kills a family in a mini-van out on the road, you can bet that the insurance company is going to investigate the issue and probably blame you for the problem.

Open "S" style hooks are not legal in most states because there is no way for them to stay on the hitch, they can bounce off very easy. The latch style hooks are the ones you want, and if you've had one come off, then you may not have hooked them completely, which is the case sometimes with factory hitches that have a large section of steel on the outside of the hole for the safety chain hook.

If the "S" style hook is illegal in your state, then a dealer isn't allowed to sell the trailer with those style hooks on it. They have to sell you a product that is legal. We have one manufacture that pays us about $100 to $200 a month just because we have to change everyone one of the safety chain hooks that they put on the trailers. You would think they would just go with the other hooks, but according to them, we are among only about 5 dealers that care enough to change them. Amazing to me.
 

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Safety chain CAN NOT be welded straight to the trailer. This weakens the chain and is also illegal in most states. You can attach them via cold roll of equal or greater size, or bolt them on with a bolt of equal or great rated strength. This is all relative in the fact that a cop is no way going to know the rating of a bolt used on your trailer. But, if the coupler comes off and the chains break free and the trailer kills a family in a mini-van out on the road, you can bet that the insurance company is going to investigate the issue and probably blame you for the problem.

Open "S" style hooks are not legal in most states because there is no way for them to stay on the hitch, they can bounce off very easy. The latch style hooks are the ones you want, and if you've had one come off, then you may not have hooked them completely, which is the case sometimes with factory hitches that have a large section of steel on the outside of the hole for the safety chain hook.


If the "S" style hook is illegal in your state, then a dealer isn't allowed to sell the trailer with those style hooks on it. They have to sell you a product that is legal. We have one manufacture that pays us about $100 to $200 a month just because we have to change everyone one of the safety chain hooks that they put on the trailers. You would think they would just go with the other hooks, but according to them, we are among only about 5 dealers that care enough to change them. Amazing to me.

I didn't know that. I replaced the safety chains on my trailer from 5/16's to 3/8's, probably both are grade 30. I welded one link of each section to the trailer. I use 3/8' links instead of the J hooks that it came with.

Al
 

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then you may not have hooked them completely, which is the case sometimes with factory hitches that have a large section of steel on the outside of the hole for the safety chain hook.
Mine hook completely.

But in the past I always hooked them open end forward.

Next time I hook up, I'll be seeing if I can put the hooks on open end facing trailer.
 

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Mine hook completely.

But in the past I always hooked them open end forward.

Next time I hook up, I'll be seeing if I can put the hooks on open end facing trailer.
Good call, and a great point to bring up. If it is possible to hook your chains that way, it is the prefered method. Didn't think about that earlier. Just like hooking up a winch line, open end of the hook should face up when pulled tight.
 

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Mine hook completely.

But in the past I always hooked them open end forward.

Next time I hook up, I'll be seeing if I can put the hooks on open end facing trailer.
I think that's your problem. Ours are open hooks like that (no latch), and they came out all the time on the road when they would hit something. Once we started putting them on so the open end faced the trailer, we didn't have one more problem.
 

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FOF
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Discussion Starter #18
I like to use these, they are rated at 5000 lbs max for a 5/16".
 

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