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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
this weekend i am planning to swap the tranny and xfercase out of an 88 rrc and put it into my 89.

i was just curious as to some helpful hints as to what to do. any tips that would help along the way? (gettin to bolts, removing torque converter, what exactly to expect?, is it easier to separate xfer/trans or leave as one non-symetrical piece?)
things i should remember to do?

anything i should know?
are torques when rebolting to the engine important, if so anybody got numbers?

i ask cause i have yet to buy a service manual and am going at it blind.




thanks
 

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deathorglory said:
this weekend i am planning to swap the tranny and xfercase out of an 88 rrc and put it into my 89.

i was just curious as to some helpful hints as to what to do. any tips that would help along the way? (gettin to bolts, removing torque converter, what exactly to expect?, is it easier to separate xfer/trans or leave as one non-symetrical piece?)
things i should remember to do?

anything i should know?
are torques when rebolting to the engine important, if so anybody got numbers?

i ask cause i have yet to buy a service manual and am going at it blind.




thanks
Some thoughts.

Find a lift and tranny jack to use.

Get a porta-power to spread the frame for the crossmember R&R.

Have some studs and gaskets on hand for the exhaust.

Fiat will write you a novelette so you do not need the manual.

Be ready for some heavy lifting.

That is all.
JP
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
already bought the tranny jack;)

one issue i may have is the y pipes are different. anyone know if i will be able to use my nrp (bling) y pipe for the 3.9 with the new tranny/xfer. i've heard of clearence issues with the front ds and the cat????
also the crossmembers between the two are way different. the 88 is a much more solid unit than the 89 which looks like exhaust pipe, if one doenst clear i assume that they are interchangeable?

thanks
 

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i can't remember if there are two or four motor mounts on these things? i think there are only two.

at any rate - a friend of mine recently did this, and advised to remove the fan from the front of the motor. otherwise when you drop the rear cross-member, the engine/tranny will tilt down and set it into the radiator.

cheers,

isaac
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
funny you should mention that. i was going to change the engine mounts as well.
how do you spose that it would be the easiest way to do this.
1. same tranny still on, change mounts, dissassemble, reassemble
2. dissassemble, change mount (with engine only bolted down
in 2 places) reassemble.
3. dissassemble, reasemble with engine tilted bacward (maybe
easier to get to some of the bolts?) change mounts...

any other possibilities/ thoughts
thanks
just tryin to make this as painless as possible
 

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deathorglory said:
just tryin to make this as painless as possible
Then don't do it! Or...pay someone else to.

The crossmembers are interchangeable, and the Y-pipes should be too.

IMO, you should do the motor mounts AFTER you do the transmission/t-case swap. Reason being, you will twist the mounts when you drop the TT combo, and if they were new they might tear.

BTW the new style motor and tranny mounts are better, cheaper, and all you need to do to use the newer style is drill out the mounting holes a tad bit bigger.

That's all I got.
 

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Re: Re: TRANNY removal

pendy said:


Some thoughts.

Get a porta-power to spread the frame for the crossmember R&R.

That was my skull!
JP

Got Hi-Lift?

-Jeff
 

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"Got Hi-Lift? "

. . . got bike helmut? :flipoff2:

(i'm almost not kidding . . . i'm kinda skeered of those things. mine waits for me, menacingly painted in bright orange paint, just waiting for the right opportunity)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
newer motor mounts????
for like the newer engines or what?
i was thinking toyota. saw it mentioned on another thread.
are the tranny/tcase mounts the same bushing as engine as well?

think i should break the engine mounts free and then rotate the engine down a little with the tranny still attached so i can get to the bolts better... its just a bitch to get to the top of the bellhousing.

i can just see it now my engine is going to end up on the floor.....

also whats the deal with the park/nuetral switch and the tcase? how do i disable it. or whatever you guys do?
 

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deathorglory said:
whats the deal with the park/nuetral switch and the tcase? how do i disable it. or whatever you guys do?
Unbolt the solenoid housing. Remove the solenoid from the housing. Silicone (Silly-cone to you Vegas guys) up the wire hole. Apply gasket eliminator to the housing, and bolt back up.


-Jeff
 

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One of the changes for the '89 RRC was a downshift limiter for the ZF transmission (so it wouldn't downshift into 3rd while doing 75 and you stomp on the throttle). If your trans in the '89 is good I'd just swap in the transfercase. Less work too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the torque converter is going (i believe...)

symptoms:

at a stop light take foot off brake, onto gas, no go. it will creep forward but it takes a second for the rpms to get up (~1000?) and then you can actually feel the tc lock up abrluptly and then it goes...

trans shifts flawlessly and has a new filter. (i changed it thinking it would make a difference...didnt)

this really sucks when wheeling and is just plain annoying on road.
 

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Ahhhhhh!

I thought this was going to be a thread about the activities of a doorman in an alternative style night club.

Carry on.

<grin>
 

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Re: Re: Re: TRANNY removal

JSBriggs said:



Got Hi-Lift?

-Jeff

You are too cool for school JSB baby. Does a tranny post speak to you?

Do not talk about bike helmets. JSB will start with the head gear and special people comments, directed at me of course.

Keep the 89 cross member for your NRP exhaust. The 88 RRC does not have the solenoid JSB talks about disabling. it has a two wire switch that closes when you are in diff lock. I would hook it to the overheat signal with the gears in the instrument panel. One of the old sensors on the BW t-case had these wires going to it. This will let you know you are in diff lock, silly.


Anybody seen Brooke Shields surfing today. I need to throw a big party.
Jim Pendleton
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
but isnt there also a switch that doesnt allow you to shift into low if the trans isnt in P or N?
i thought i saw something about disabling that so it couldnt leave you stranded.

how bout i connect to the actual diff lock light that came on the dash out of the donor 88 (you know the light that looks like I-I) nice finishing touch...;)
this all depends how easy it is to hook up. if its a bitch to run wires i may say fuggit and do what you recommended.
 

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deathorglory said:
but isnt there also a switch that doesnt allow you to shift into low if the trans isnt in P or N?
i thought i saw something about disabling that so it couldnt leave you stranded.

how bout i connect to the actual diff lock light that came on the dash out of the donor 88 (you know the light that looks like I-I) nice finishing touch...;)
this all depends how easy it is to hook up. if its a bitch to run wires i may say fuggit and do what you recommended.
The 88' LT230 will not have an electric solenoid that prevents you from shifting it between L-N-H. If you took the console out of the 88' then this could be good. Let us know.

JP
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright i've been busy for like the past 3 weeks so i havent worked on removing the tranny/trans

anyway now im am stuck and in need of advice.

everything is out of the way of the tranny and transfer and it has been lowered down.
i think* that i've got all the bolts removed from the bell housing.
anybody know how many bolts there should be?
the trans wont budge.
does the starter have to be removed?
a plate came off of the front of the bellhousing and i can see the flywheel. there are bolts in it. does the torque converter bolt to the flywheel?
shouldnt the trans just slide out?
sorry i dont know squat
but i just cant get it to budge.
any other tips?

thanks
happy holidays
brandon
 

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You probably have a bellhousing bolt still holding it. The tranmission should separate easily but I usually have to shake it or give it a good boot.. The starter does not need to be removed. There are four bolts for the torque converter that are accessed thru holes in the flywheel...remove two and then rotate the engine to get the other two. They will be a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There are four bolts for the torque converter that are accessed thru holes in the flywheel...remove two and then rotate the engine to get the other two. They will be a pain.
are these 4 bolts required to be removed to dislodge the bellhousing?
 

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no, but you will have to move the tranmission back further during removal to clear the torque converter still bolted to the flywheel.
 
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