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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched this board and the internet about the Dana 300 and atlas blowing oil with out much additional info.

I recently installed a flipped Dana 300 without the 4-1 gears in my TJ. I put it behind an AW4 auto and it is mounted above the RE skid plate so it had to clocked quite a bit.
I used 3/8 fuel line for the vent and it is ran up to the firewall without any low spots in the line.
I put in 2 quarts of lube.
When i do short drives around town ( five miles or so)it is fine. No leak.
When I drive it on the freeway about 30 minutes I have lube all over everything.
The only place it is leaking is from the vent.
Advanced Adapters suggested using a catch can at the top of the vent for the blow by, with the inlet at the bottom of the can so the lube can drain back into the case after I stop. It sounds like it would work but I'd like a solution not band aid.
Thanks
Scratch
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The directions that come with the kit say to put the vent on what used to be the drain hole on the inspections plate. Several guys have moved the vent to the new file hole on the side of the case to gain another inch of clearance. This is very I originally had mine.
I had so much blow by here that I move the vent to the shift rail covers on the back of the case.
http://www.thebassetts.us/300.jpg[\img]
The red is the new fill hole and ex vent. The yellow is where I now have the vent attached.
Scratch
 

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I know the AA heavy duty rear output I installed a while back has a knock out for another vent hole location...i forget exactly where on the casting it is, and its 7* outside so I aint lookign right now, but perhaps there is a reason it is located on the rear output assembly in the first place. :D
Just thinking outloud that maybe you could try the rear output if you are brave enough to drill and tap it. (not a big deal IMO really cept the filings getting in there)

MJ:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've tried everything else why not? I just need to get a plug for the vent in the shift rail box.
Mines in the garage. I'll go look later.
Some have said to use a larger diameter vent.
Scratch
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maine Jeepah,
Does the speedo housing come off with just the removal of the outside bolts or is there a retaining clip in there? If possible I'd like to do this while the 300 is still installed.
BTW thanks for the help.
Scratch
 

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I run a 700r4, non-flipped D300 and 5.43 gears. I have the same problem you described when I go over 60 mph. I use a bottom-fill catch can on the firewall. It's worked for about 4 years now with no problems. I've thought about relocating the vent from the tail shaft, but have never gotten around to it.
 

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Scratch, I made one out of thin wall tubing (exhaust pipe). The size is approximately 1.75" by 6". I welded on a top and bottom with a hose barb on either end. I addad a differential vent cap to the top (to keep moisture and dirt out). I'll get a pic of it.
 

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I'm having problems with the pic. I'll email it to you. If you don't want to build one -- go to a Pick-n-Pull. A number of cars have remote brake/clutch reservoirs that may work. Geo Storms have a remote power steering reservoir that will hold a pint or two.
 

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Sounds like the oil is foaming. This from Tom Wood's web site about rotating the pinion up for a CV joint:

"One word of caution though , make sure the pinion tail bearing still receives adequate oil . An over-fill may be required, overfilling the differential may cause a problem with foaming of the differential fluid. Adding about a cup of a Dextron type II automatic transmission fluid to your gear oil will lower the surface tension of the oil and should help control the foaming."

You've done basically the same thing, but with a transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Kreep,
That makes some of the most sense of anything I've seen or read so far! I bet I'm getting foaming in the case and that would cause 1. the pressures to build and 2. the amount of lube to be getting the out of the way places I've placed the vent.
I wonder if I need to get the dextron II or if the Dextron IV or V I have here would work.
Thanks for the link
Scratch
 

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really any lower viscocity oil will work. It just helps bring the mean viscocity down, therefore causing less foaming. You could also use standard 30 weight oil, but there may not be enough of a difference there to make it work. I used a similar trick (half ATF, and half 90 weight) in my AX15 when I lived in Chicago. The straight 90 weight would freeze solid in the case due to the extreme cold., but the mixture was thin enough to allow me to drive normally and still retain the proper lubrication.
 

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Surface tension and viscosity are separate properties. I'm thinking water and soapy water have similar viscosities, but very different surface tensions...

I'd see if you can find the Dextron II, if not, use a conventional Dextron III.

Also, have you tried a synthetic gear lube? I plan to run Mobil 1 in my clocked Dana 300.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm running a para synthetic at this point.
I will be running a full sythetic after the break in period.
I spoke with the guys at Tom Woods about this statement yesterday on the phone.
They said that almost any of the ATFs would work because they have a anti-foaming agent in them.
Also noted was that Tom Woods himself drives a nissian pickup that he put in a double TC clocked up. The case that was clocked up blew a lot out to the breather. The way that he solve the problem was by just not putting so much lube in the case by half a pint or so.
I've got two options right now. The first is to put in a cup a ATF, bring it back up to the 2 quart level and see what happens.
The other option is to drive the ---- out of the jeep for a week or so and see if it tapers off. Maybe it needs less oil clocked up so high.
Scratch
 

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A buddy of mine had a similar problem and tried the methods above and still had the problem. I'm trying to remember if his case was flipped but it isn't coming to me right now, sorry. Anyways . . .He ended up putting a baffle of sorts in the case because it was the actual flow pattern of the fluid in the case, that pushed the fluid up into the overflow tube.

I hope just changing fluid types helps you though.:)
 

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BTT for this one since my flipped and clocked 300 is puking oil out the breather. Been a mention or two on capacity, what are yall's thoughts on reducing the ammount of oil? Figure the origional oil level was determined by the cases relation to the main shaft, high enough level to make sure all the bearings were partially submerged in an oil bath. With clocking, the same ammount of oil will be much higher around the gears and shafts, so wouldnt it make sense to lower the oil level untill it covered the main shaft to the same depth as it did stock? Anyone got a pic of a stock 300 they could superimpose a line on to show just how high up the main shaft the oil level is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I ended up leaving the same amount of fluid in the 300. What I did do was to go buy an auto parts store and buy a over flow container. The container that I bought has a tube connection on the bottom. The oil blows out and fills the bottom on the container and then drains back into the TC later. The container is mounted on the firewall above the steering column. I don't even worry about this anymore.
I also figured that having the oil a little higher was helping out when I flat tow it. After all the reason for not flat towing with a Dana 300 was that it didn't properly lube. With this configuration I do a good deal of flat towing and have never had a ploblem.
Good luck
Bob
BTW Shoot me an email if you want to a Jpg of the over fill bottle.
 

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I run 6.17's with a 4:1 in mine. You want to talk about gear oil everywhere? :eek: I would to just set up a reservoir for the blow out. I dont like the idea of running the thinner oil on something that is generating so much torque.
 
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