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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Trying to decide what transfer case to use and what's going to be best suitable for my application. I have an '85 Dana 60 and Sterling rear (for the time being) with 4.10's. Assuming I will be keeping the 4.10's, what transfer case(s) are going to get me the best tire speed/crawl ability. These will be going under an '84 Bronco with a mild 302 w/ a C6. I will be running around a 2200 stall more than likely and will probably start out with a 38.5-39.5" tire, but plan on 44"s in the future. Will the BW1356 that's already in there get me the tire speed I need to the truck moving with 44's and a 302, and will it hold up? Or will I need to go 203/205? I have been thinking of the Atlas/Stak cases, but am not packing that kind of coin at the moment, but a possibility in the future. I want to have a snappy throttle response and be able to use the power at a given moment (hence the 2200 stall, possibly higher) while the 302 is in. What are my options? Thanks guys!
 

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i assume you want a low tire speed and good crawl ratio? if so the 203/205 doubler is a sweet setup. If youre running 38-40s with 4.10s a doubler would be a good idea. If youre running 44s id say its a must, and you'd wanna seriously consider lower gears in the axles too with either tire size (Performance Off Road Center has great prices on gears for the 60, dunno about ther Sterling).

I dont really think that a BW1356 and 44s will be a great partnership, with tires that size youre gonna want an all gear transfer case like the 205 (2:1 low), 203/205 (4:1 super low) doubler, or even 203/flipped Dana 300 doubler which would give you about a 5:1 double low (8:1 uber-low if you do a 4:1 kit in the D300!!!). Not to mention it saves you about 75 pounds or so (upgrade the d300 output shafts though if you go that direction). Chain drive tcases wont hold up to 44s like those combos, chains will stretch and get sloppy, then just break. Just my $.02. Hope it helps :D

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply...I am wanting a good crawl ratio, but good tire speed as well for the once or twice a year I will take it to the dunes. I mainly wheel in Disney, OK (Hogan's) and look forward to going to Clayton/Poteau, FlatNasty and further east, so tire speed will almost be a must. Will either of those combos net me good tire speed?
 

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Well for fast tire speed you'll want less reduction. Therefore you'll probably want to have the tcase in high range (1:1) and just rely on your engine power and transmission and axle gearing to get you going. All those doublers and single tcases still have 1:1 high range so any of them would still work. If you want good acceleration with 44s and still be able to get a decent top speed, you are absolutely gonna have to upgrade from 4.10s to 5.13s or numerically higher gears. 44s and 4.10s will be pretty sluggish and rob you of acceleration. You probably wont like 38-40s with the 4.10s either but it might be tolerable, especially with a doubler although the more reduction you have in the tcase, the less top speed you'll have.

I checked PORC, they have 5.38s for the sterling ($160) and high pinion dana 60 ($140). $300 plus two install kit is pretty damn cheap, i would consider it if you have the extra $$$. Another way to get acceleration is to get the extra weight out. That means gut the interior, lose the doors, top (its a bronco anyway right), and extra sheetmetal and run the 203/built Dana 300. :D

Sam :dustin:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just to clarify, what I mean by tire speed is on the trail, acceleration from a dead stop..say up a rock wall or whatever. I'm not concerned really on top speed on the road (I won't be driving this thing on the street), but want to be able to speed up and down all of the open trails if I feel the urge to go fast :D (top speed maybe 40-50 mph in the open) but I want that "put you back in your seat" feeling. I'm constantly on the look out for a 460 in the area, or buying a 351W to build on the side because I know I'll need/want more motor.

Thank you for checking those prices though. I was looking on there earlier and didn't see any that low. Where did you find those on the site?
 

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On the site theyre under categories>drivetrain, ring and pinion gears>PORC Ring and Pinions>Dana 60 or >Ford>Sterling Here are the links: Dana 60 and Sterling.

So if you want to be thrown back in the seat id do a doubler and you might get away with the 4.10s (but gears should be upgrade #1). You will live in single low range for mud and zipping around trails, double low for crawling and high range for the dunes :cool2:. Once again, i like the Dana 300 stock low of 2.62:1 rather than 1.98:1 of the 205. Plus if you upgrade the dana 300 output shafts, ive heard it can handle around 500hp. Can you tell im building a doubler with the D300? :D

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Haha sounds good. On the 203/205 setup, being you just use the range box from the 203, does it matter what it comes out of? Chevy/Dodge/Ford? I understand I must have a Ford 205 for the driver's drop, but does the range box also have to be from a Ford?

And

What are you building? :smokin::smokin:
 

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The 203 range box just has to match your spline count and mounting bolt pattern of your transmission. Aside from that, they're all the same so you can use whatever you find.

Im building a 1988 bronco II. Its damn ugly (already rolled when i got it), but its just gonna be a beefy beater :D I have 39.5" Iroks on DIY beadlocks, a dodge d60 front and d60 rear (may eventually go high pinion 60 but the dodge was cheap) that will be riding on a one link suspension, and the stock v6/5 speed. The engine will die eventually so after that i will put in a 302 or 351 with an np435 or c6 and 203/d300 doubler. For the time being i custom made my own doubler for the dana 300 and BW1350 that the BII came with. Since im just running the v6, it should hold up alright :smokin: Best of luck with your project, sounds like its gonna be sweet, let me know if you have any more questions!

Sam :dustin:
 

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Just to clarify, what I mean by tire speed is on the trail, acceleration from a dead stop..say up a rock wall or whatever. I'm not concerned really on top speed on the road (I won't be driving this thing on the street)......
In that case, ditch the 4.10s.

If you want power off the line (@1:1) w/bigger than 36" tires, you need to go lower. If it's for wheeling only... go as low as you can go (5.38).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It will be off road only, and I'll only need it to be peppy off the line when I'm wheelin' (in which case I'll probably stay in 2:1 90% of the time). I have an '88 Bronco with a 351W and stock axles/stock gearing (which I think is 3.55) with a BW1356 case and 35's, and I just leave it in low range all the time and I get around. So I imagine I'll be ok with a doubler. I think a 3:1 option would be better suited for me, but the option of 2:1 and 4:1 should be adequate. We'll see.....
 
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