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Discussion Starter #1
To start off, all of my loyalties go to IH. :)

Now, I'd like to turn my 1969 Travelall 1/2ton into an off-road mud truck, but have concerns about the vehicle's frame. Do you guys think that it would hold up? After reading a few hundred posts I noticed that I haven't seen too many Travelalls in this form.

The first modification necessary would be D60HD front and D60HD full float rear, from a K30 1 ton to support the tractor tires. I plan on moving the front axle forward (or shortening the front body) so that I can have a 90 degree approach angle. I'd like to keep some of the front body design, but I don't think it will be possible. I'm not to worried about the back, I just won't reverse up walls.

I'm going to go with a 4 link triangulated with coil suspension in the rear. I haven't looked at how everything will fit in the front (because I don't have my range box yet).

For the drive train, I will have its original 345 with TFT727. The transmission will connect to a "range box", a 5 ton ~2.5 foot cubed clutchless type transmission, for selecting off-road versus on road ratios. I hope that I can use my stock NP202, still have to see if its any good. I will have close to 160:1 in 1st gear (I haven't settled on a R&P ratio yet) with the range box in 1st, the auto in 1st, and TC in low.

Now, I've already built a body tub for the rear that is capable of supporting itself (and much more) and wheel wells that can handle the 44s with no lift. In fact, I think that the current state of my vehicle is quite ugly because of the wheel wells! I've also replaced the rockers with 3.5x1.5x.25 rectangle tube.

Anyway, if anyone has any experience with the travelalls frame and its strength...I'd love to get some pointers. If anything else sounds bad, or if you just want to complain about the stock back wheel placement...go ahead. :)


What it looked like the day it came home...


Half way through modifications.


Shot of temporary fenders made out of the roof of a junk 78 scout.

Grant
 

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WOW!! They have crack up in Alaska? Put the pipe down and step away........
 

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I'd have to agree, that's pretty hack.


1st, get some lift springs. 6" or 8" chevy ought to work. You'll need to do the steering right however. Hoops got some super high-arch spring for ya :D

Then get your 60's, bolt them on, then get your tires THEN cut to fit.


For a mud-truck, what do you need a 90º approach?? and departure is just as important as approach, ask us Scout II guys ;)


Mud-Trucks have very little suspension travel, they don't need it. They just wallow through the mud. Put some sort of ladder bars on it, don't worry about the 4-link coil ect, unnecessary for a mud truck.

Now if you want to make a all-purpose wheeler, I'd still say stick with leaves till you get your axles and tires on there, and see if you need to go that far. You can do a MUCH better job of hacking when you have the tires, and know what you need to remove. A little lift, and some careful saws-all work and make something like Chevy Cut-out flares work and 44's should fit no problem, with out carving the thing up. You probably will need to move the rear axle back... unless you wanted to cut the door (which might be cool, if done right)

Also, as much as I like D-series stuff.. I think it would look allot better with a C-series...
 

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I think building a Travelall is a cool idea.

I think your "tubbing" job on the rear could've been a lot nicer.. yikes.

Frame will probably be fine.

Definitely move the axle back. If you want to stay leaf sprung, you can probably get away with cutting the rivets and sliding the spring and shackle mounts to the rear a good bit to keep the tires out of the doors.

Up front you'll have problems.

You probably want to push the front axle forward, but you have a front sump oil pan in the way.

I haven't sawzalled to see what'll fit before it hits the firewall, but I think you'll want to look at going to a SII or 74-75 truck rear sump pan for the front clearance, then push the front end forward. Not much room on the current frame setup to move the springs forward, so you may need different springs, a new center pin, or go with coils and a link suspension to really push it forward.

Personally, I'd also look at swapping out whichever transmission you have for the SII version of it, then cut up a Dana 20 into a range-box only and install that in front of the divorced NP205 (do you really have a 202?) for a cheap double-low.

I've had thoughts on building up my Travelall before. I think it's kinda fun to wheel the fullsize now and then.

Not sure I want to try it with my 166" WB pickup though.. that's a little *too* full-size..

Rusty's on track with the Chevy springs if you want some lift.. you have to move the shackle mount back 2" or so to the 2wd mount, but that's about it.
 

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:eek:
 

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Brhahahahaha, damm that thing is fugly, bootie fab is the Key word of the day, You need to chop right behind the rear seats and make that last 3 feet disappear.... And as for mud you better go buy a 12000 pound winch because for you there is no bottom of the mud pit. not in that tank...At least cut off the reciever hitch on the back but by now i am sure you realised that:flipoff2: good luck though sounds like you got yourself into a world of hurt now hee hee hee
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Then get your 60's, bolt them on, then get your tires THEN cut to fit.
Well, I cut the rear because 100% of the metal under my cut line was rust/foam/rubber/etc. The scout roof is just temporary. With no garage, winter comming, and an attitude of "I could care less"... :)

For a mud-truck, what do you need a 90º approach?? and departure is just as important as approach, ask us Scout II guys ;)
Because a lot of the guys in the Alaska 4x4 club go where there is serious mud, but at the same time still do rock traversing down by captian cook. And yes...I know the hitch has got to go. I can only get about 15 degree approach with that anchor on there

WTF is with the wood on the roof??
There's 375watts of C7 christmas lights up there. Wanted to see how far I could get with the police... They just waved.

I think your "tubbing" job on the rear could've been a lot nicer.. yikes.

Paint is still wet (in the picture!).

I don't think it could have been any better. :) body frame out of 2x1 bar channel, fender frame out of 1x1 square tube, fender panels out of 16g galvanized and floor out of 14g galvanized...and its all sealed up. :flipoff2: This isn't supposed to be the all-pretty-summer truck, I've got a 1972 Scout II with straight body and no rust for that. This is supposed to be the "opps, someone hit me" truck.

I'm considering centering the rear axle, putting on 31 ATs instead of 215s, and using it to haul around a built chevy.

 

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use the chevy to hual the t-all!


nothing wrong with what your doing, it just looks like HELL right now.

The inside looks good though.


I'd still go with your original plan, just as I sugested, get your axles and tires and THEN cut the matal more. The front will most likely have to come forward, and the rear back, so it will work out. I'd say try to get the Chevy cut-out flares to fit, then weld in sheet metal where you had to cut it out to get it to look "right" again.

A t-all with 44's could look cool, but Lift it up at least a little.

As for your original question: The IH frame is no weaker than the chevy frame... same style of construction. Should be fine, but you can always box it for strength....
 

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69travelall said:
It would have to have a long wheelbase in order to keep the rear body.

Grant
That's pretty much what I had daydreamed about doing to mine, Grant.

Push the rear axle back to center it between the D and C pillars.

There's no gas tank under the rear to worry about and the springs are forward on the frame already - just slide 'em back to the end of the frame rails. It'll involve a grinder, a hammer and punch, a drill and bit, and some bolts (plus the driveshaft mods, of course)

The "ugly" part is the outside - I would've kept more of a wheel-arch look to it.. cut way out, but I like to still see SOME outer skin that resembles a fender.

Inside looks good.

Move the front forward just enough to keep the tire out of the firewall.. but do keep the oil pan in mind, too.

A 74-75 Travelall has the motor set back about 8" and would be better suited for this. Then again, AFAIK they made no mods to the firewall and such to accomodate the engine set-back... so nothing is stopping you from sliding the motor back and tucking it into the firewall more - maybe more than the 74/75 did.

You might move the NP205 back at that point, if you wanted to make room for a doubler. Just move the '205 back far enough to retain the stock rear 'shaft after you push the rear axle back 6 or 8" or whatever it works out for.

Probably looking at close to 130" WB.. give or take.

Moving the rear axle back will help with departure, and the 44s will help with break-over. :D

I still say a built T'all is a cool project.

Heck, it's enough fun to spank Jeeps with my 'too big' Scout.. they REALLY hate it when I drive circles around them in my way-too-big IH station wagon.. :D and it's still stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Current plan is to use the Travelall as a tow rig. Can't bring myself to cut up the front end. :D

I will be moving the rear axle back and fixing the front suspension (1 scout and 1 travelall spring, bounces real funny).

Grant
 

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Hmmm

I'm in the process of doing a 1210 T-All myself with 3" lift 35's and blah blah blah. but I'm keeping my body strait. For your frame question what model t-all is it? With the 345cid I'm guess ing its the 1/2 ton 1000 or 1110(prob this one). If it has the box frame you will need to reinforce it as its not as strong as the channel frame on the 1110,1210,or 1310's. I am going to reinforce a few key points on my frame anyway. I'm going to box a few jacking points and such for added strength. For lift if your going to 44's just go for it and get the springs built and move the rear back about 10-14 inches. If you have the 1/2 tons you have D44 axels that will be eaten alive by 44s. The stronger 3/4 and 1Ton axels from heavier T-alls are a dirrect bolt on. My parts T-all is a 1110 half ton so I have had the oportunity to check parts and frame ans stuff. For cheap lift get some 3/4 ton springs and swap them and your U-bolts out (too short) and you'll gain about 2", also you can flip the rear shackel for another 2-3" in the rear. Alot of ppl her know more about trannies than I ever will but a cheap ($27.00) way for mudding power is a B&M shift kit for RV/Towing. It helps a bit and is cheap and fast. The last thing is if you are keeping the 345 get some 392 heads and do the Jim Weed high RPM mod for mudding. IMHO this is the only time the 392 head mod should be used. No comment on the roof or fenders:D
 
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