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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I figured i'd finally post up a build thread now that i'm stepping up to tons and stuff :grinpimp:

I've been running toy axles for a good 4 years now and after breaking 2 ring and pinions, and shearing hub studs, grenading other shit in the past 3 months, I bit the bullet and went to the dark side :smokin:

I picked up a 79 Chevy 1 ton big sumbitch for dirt cheap over the summer that i towed my pile with, towed alright until the trans took a dump...parted out some of it and made most of my money back :grinpimp:

anyway here is what the rig looked like





My basic plans...tons, full hydro, narrowed front, tube clip, super low, not super wide (5" bs wheels)

So as far as parts that I have...
-GM Dana 60, 4.10's, welded (for now) ..Will be shaved, 3 link w/ panhard
-14BFF, 4.10's, welded, disk brake brackets from GLO..will be shaved, 4 link
-42/17 Pitbull Rockers from John at Kajo Built...By far the best price I could find (including local) and shipped to my door. John is the man!
-17x9, 5" BS soft 8's with GLO DIY beadlocks
-Char Lynn steering valve off the boards...Thanks Wayne!
-Ballistic air shocks are going up front until I can pony up for coilovers down the road, TJ coils out back w/ bilstein 5150's
-7/8" Heims and brackets from Ruffstuff...can't say enough about Dan and Ruffstuff Specialties, they will go out of their way to make sure you get what you need :smokin:
-Other brackets from Ballistic Fabrication..Also an awesome company that has always treated me right.

What I need...
-single ended 2.5x8 ram, PSC pump, res, lines, fittings
-drive flanges, chromo Yukons and spicer sealed joints (for now)
...I should be able to order this stuff up after i sell my old wheels/tires this weekend..if anyone has any of this stuff, please let me know.

anyway on to the build!

18" to the frame on 32's...im shooting for 24" on 42's..Wheelbase will be ~120
beginnings of the 14 bolt truss...keep in mind it is far from finished, it will be braced and gusseted a lot more...Also ties in to the coil mounts


beginnings of coil mounts
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)


about as good as my mig welds will ever get haha

shitty picture of coil mockup


anyway, thats all for now...My goal is to have this ready to rock for memorial day at funny rocks...I'm going to try to make it a roller by this weekend, but school will most definitely hinder that:laughing:...we'll see how ambitious i get with finals week coming up next week:shaking:
 

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Sweet build man. Looks like the truck was pretty well done the first go 'round.

What trails you hit on that side of the mountains? Or do you come over to the West Side mostly?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks, its been a fun rig with the toy axles and everything, but I couldn't keep spending money to replace broken shit, so i just sold all of it off once they were complete and fixed.

I used to wheel a lot at Reiter, but now with all the stuff going on over there I just stay here and wheel up at moon/funny rocks and naches trails
 

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I like where your head is at on the build, I have one question: Who is [redacted]?
 

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I was gonna say isn't that the guy from Crawl??? Nice start on the build by the way.
 

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ive always liked the back part of your truck :smokin: the wheelbase is nicely set to.

keep the 4.10s for as little as possible. make sure you motor mounts are solid and the case is solid mounted in the back. even with all that your still going to blow up the case. if you dont have a chromo output yet, get one before you even take it out on the trail. its stupid easy to break. ill be watching this thread. get 5.38s as soon as money is available.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the kind words fella's

I need to brace the back half to the frame better and clean it up then it will be much nicer, still a work in progress 2 years later :shaking:

4.10's are super temporary trust me, 5.38's will go in eventually...been running a longfield output and 23 spline marlin stuff for awhile now, so the cases are really as built as they can be (minus the super bling chromo shit from marlin)

Why solid mounted motor/t case? I've already grenaded a transfer case housing and front output with my FROR crossmember, wouldn't a softer bushing be the way to go?

And with that, back to the shop...working on my front link crossmember...im skeptical on fitting my upper link with how low I want to be...fuck...I think it's time for a new frame.. :shaking::D
 

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thanks for the kind words fella's

I need to brace the back half to the frame better and clean it up then it will be much nicer, still a work in progress 2 years later :shaking:

4.10's are super temporary trust me, 5.38's will go in eventually...been running a longfield output and 23 spline marlin stuff for awhile now, so the cases are really as built as they can be (minus the super bling chromo shit from marlin)

Why solid mounted motor/t case? I've already grenaded a transfer case housing and front output with my FROR crossmember, wouldn't a softer bushing be the way to go?

And with that, back to the shop...working on my front link crossmember...im skeptical on fitting my upper link with how low I want to be...fuck...I think it's time for a new frame.. :shaking::D
as soon as you get it back out on the trail your gunna notice a ton more force with the bigger tires and 4.10s on the drivetrain and the shifters will throw back and fourth a lot.

again, with the 4.10s and your motor mounts being solid mounted your rear cases can still have some twist to them. this goes the same the other way around. everything will be able to stay together much longer if you eliminate all the movement. i chained my MM's solid and kept breaking a 3/8" thick FROR style cross member over and over again, 4 times for that matter. so i threw away that BS and made a 1/2" thick laser cut cross member mounted on top of some 1 1/2 .250 wall tubing that went out to bushings on either sides of the frame rails. (check my build thread) now that that is so strong and will not break, ive broken the chains free from the MM's and my frame rails after 4 runs. its just going to go back and fourth until you make it solid. once you go solid, youll be good but the innards of the case wont survive with the 4.10 abuse.

its not to hard to make a new frame rail, just cut if off and lift it 2 or 3". thats what im gunna do. if you are gunna make new MM's, you might as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
as soon as you get it back out on the trail your gunna notice a ton more force with the bigger tires and 4.10s on the drivetrain and the shifters will throw back and fourth a lot.

again, with the 4.10s and your motor mounts being solid mounted your rear cases can still have some twist to them. this goes the same the other way around. everything will be able to stay together much longer if you eliminate all the movement. i chained my MM's solid and kept breaking a 3/8" thick FROR style cross member over and over again, 4 times for that matter. so i threw away that BS and made a 1/2" thick laser cut cross member mounted on top of some 1 1/2 .250 wall tubing that went out to bushings on either sides of the frame rails. (check my build thread) now that that is so strong and will not break, ive broken the chains free from the MM's and my frame rails after 4 runs. its just going to go back and fourth until you make it solid. once you go solid, youll be good but the innards of the case wont survive with the 4.10 abuse.

its not to hard to make a new frame rail, just cut if off and lift it 2 or 3". thats what im gunna do. if you are gunna make new MM's, you might as well.
Ok, so your motor mounts are solid but your transfer case crossmember is just beefy as hell with the bushings? I'm thinking as long as there is a "soft" mount in the drivetrain (preferably tcase) it'll atleast help keep the t-cases alive...I'll look into this some more...I'll beef up my FROR crossmember while I'm at it too.

I had planned on building a new frame from the motor mounts forward just for uptravel/clearance sake...However, no that I got my front lower link crossmember/mounts tacked in (pictures to follow), I can see I'm going to hit the frame with the ride height im shooting for...No biggie, i've got ~60 feet of 1.75x1.56 DOM 'remnants' on order for stupid cheap, so i'll bend up a new frame with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright this is what I got done today...built a crossmember for my front lower links out of 2x2 .250 square tube, plated with 2" .250 plate...overkill for sure but the material was free and I have a shit ton of it. Also got the lower link mounts tacked on...everything still needs gusseting and everything but this is the general idea...I'm going to re-do my rear crossmember to match this to mount a skid plate to as well



I'll end up cutting the ends of to match that angle and plate/gusset that as well.


I've got about an inch between the crossmember and the tcases, I may recess the frame outriggers into the crossmember, or i'll just leave it...It hangs down from the frame 3" total right now...
 

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Looks good man, Really like the lines of your cage, got anymore detailed pics of it? You ever drive it on the street?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks guys!

the cage is pretty simple, i'll get an overhead picture of it so you can see how I did the halo and what not...I've driven it on some backroads around town, but I live in a college town where we have like 3 different jurisdictions of cops to pull you over, so I just drive my Tundra. BUT I will drive it to school on the 42's and everything, i don't give a shit if I get pulled over..should pull some serious wool with it :laughing::laughing:
 

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Wool is so 1970's I'd go for the less wooly type. :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hahaha good call, these college girls keep things pretty neat and tidy anyway :D


On another note, my orbital came today! Time to order more shit!:smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lookin good. I should run over and look at it.
Anytime Brad. I guess you can see that I totally failed at getting it a roller by Sunday...I went out and drank a lot friday and saturday night instead :D

...that and everytime I work on it, I manage to come up with 3 more projects :shaking:

anyway, I worked on it for a few hours today after I built a bumper for a friend...

charlynn valve came today...should be 3.5 turns lock to lock with a 2.5" bore single ended ram:smokin:


cut off some of the cage stuff and built a new spreader bar and upper shock mounts.


The lower mount is tacked for now until I check clearences and everything...The shock is angled forward of the coil so I think it should be fine.


the lower mount ties into the coil mount as well.
 
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