Ok, so your motor mounts are solid but your transfer case crossmember is just beefy as hell with the bushings? I'm thinking as long as there is a "soft" mount in the drivetrain (preferably tcase) it'll atleast help keep the t-cases alive...I'll look into this some more...I'll beef up my FROR crossmember while I'm at it too.
I had planned on building a new frame from the motor mounts forward just for uptravel/clearance sake...However, no that I got my front lower link crossmember/mounts tacked in (pictures to follow), I can see I'm going to hit the frame with the ride height im shooting for...No biggie, i've got ~60 feet of 1.75x1.56 DOM 'remnants' on order for stupid cheap, so i'll bend up a new frame with that.
I don't plan on running toyota cases very long after this...a Dana 300 with my toyota reduction housing in front of it is definitely in my future... I planned on beefing up my fror crossmember for now though, as well as utilizing the stock transfer case mounts with my link crossmember..so basically doubled up transfer case mounts...I've been through your's and kyles build a few times and seen all of the bullshit you've been through with your transfer cases, and i've already shattered a t case housing and front output...don't really want to keep going down that path..where are you getting the .500 FROR style mounts? Building them yourselves?EDIT: what im saying pertains to 4.10s and 42s and personal experience.
what kyle is saying is that if you have stock motor mounts, and a FROR style crossmember, you will break one of two things, or both. first you will notice the crossmember will break around the lower right bolt hole, then if you beef up the crossmember you will start to break the case where the bolts attach. both he and i have been through nearly 10 cases, and several crossmembers each.
if you plan to run the FROR crossmember, i highly suggest beefing the shit out of it because it will bend and break. also, you need to run a poly motor mount. if you allow the front of your drivetrain to rock back and forth and the very rear of your drivetrain to not move at all (or barely) you are making the whole drivetrain twist, and usually cracking the back case where the crossmember bolts on. now, this goes the other way as well, hard motor mounts, and stock tcase mounts will stress the drivetrain as well, a friend runs a vortec/4l60e/duals with poly motor mounts, and stock tcase mounts, he breaks the bolts between the tranny and the tcase adapter every other trip. i suggest running poly motor mounts and a .500 FROR "style" crossmember with poly bushings at the frame. either make the drivetrain mounted soft (stock motor mounts and stock tcase mounts, although they will fall apart shortly.) or poly mounted everywhere.
if you are going to build a frame you can take a look at my build, thats what i did, i moved it up 3", or brads build (hyena) his is tube infront of the motor mounts.
Well with standard low steer, the only issues i'll have is bending the tie rod...but I'm replacing the stock shit with 2"x.250" DOM and 7/8" heims from ruffstuff, just havent got around to doing it as I haven't picked up a ram yet. If I tried to run the tie rod behind the axle, it wouldn't clear the pumpkin and i'd hit my oil pan for sure.Naw it looks good just was aking? If you have room i would just to not have to worry about steering breakage
holy shit thats a little over kill for a tie rod, no? id go with the one from WFO. get there tie rod kit. its been fine for me and strong.Well with standard low steer, the only issues i'll have is bending the tie rod...but I'm replacing the stock shit with 2"x.250" DOM and 7/8" heims from ruffstuff
oh well, it's a trailer queen anyway besides.. it rode shitty before...my drivelines were all sorts of fucked :shaking: thanks for the heads up thoughYeah, I think you are right on track with the 2x.250 stuff. Low steer get fucking hammered on.
Btw, with poly motor mounts the vibrations are pretty gnarly.......so be prepared.
I've never heard of that brand springs, so I have no idea of quality. I can say there are ALOT of poor quality springs on the market and very few good ones. Warranty doesn't mean much when you are having to replace sagging springs a couple times a year.on another note, anyone ever used black magic springs? Found them on ebay...very cheap and lifetime warranty...i may go this route.