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If you decide to go SOA and have hi steer crossover you should take the front frame horns up higher 2" or you'll be notching it
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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for the advice. I wondered about clearance for the high steer. What springs are you using and how high does your's sit?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Look what showed up this past weekend. It was a deal I couldn't pass up. So I have committed to a 5.3. It is out of an 02 Chevy truck with 90k miles. A friend has offered up an 4L60E and will rebuild/install the adapter shaft.

I want to run the Dana 300 in a driver side drop position to match my front axle. I have been reading the posts on flipping the Dana 300. It looks like there may be some issues with shift rod clearances. I am up for suggestions. Who has the better adapter for this setup? Best transfer case shifters to use? Any other suggestions?

I am committed to stretching the engine compartment. I am still not convinced to stretch the tub. I don't want to spend a fortune on a custom made top.

I sold the M38 frame and running gear. I am still waiting on the steel to start the frame build. I think I am going to purchase new fenders and a grill. Thinking GPW.

 

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I cut the firewall out and built a new one allowing me to move my engine back 1 1/2" on both of my GPW & Willys. And my tubs are not stretched just cut the rear fenders out. I'm 6' 1" 212 lbs and fit in pretty good. And stretch the wheel base front and rear. It will wheel better and drive better at high speed, I can drive 70 mph and it is very stable. Looks like it going to be a good build, lotsa pics. please!!!!!!!! Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Tim....great name...anyway, what drivetrain you running? I guess I need to look up your build. I have read so much, I have forgotten who has which Jeep...sorry.

I have another question. I have been looking at the Advance Adapters versus Novak 4L60E adapters for the Dana 300. Here is what I have learned so far.

AA Overall length 4.6 inches. Needs use of .5 inch Northwest Fab or the like clocking ring. Total length of transmission and T case - 28.475. Cost $457 (on sale NWF) + $59 for clocking ring. This one is designed only for the 93-96 4L60E with the non-removable bell housing. Total $516

Novak Overall length 3 inches. They advised theirs is clockable without an additional ring. Total length of transmission and T case - 24.5. this one can be used with any 4L60E. Cost is $626.

My thought is go for the shortest one possible to keep the rear driveshaft as long as possible. I know there are some issues with the proximity of the shift rails to the 4L60E pan. Would either one of these kits be better than the other for interference with the shift rails? Sorry for all of the questions, but I don't want to spend a bunch of money and get the wrong parts.

Also found a place in St. Louis today called Military Vehicle Restoration Services. They restore anything military. They had several MB's, GPWs, and M-38's. I ordered new front fenders and a GPW grill. Their prices beat anything I have found on line. Great to work with.
 

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My thought is go for the shortest one possible to keep the rear driveshaft as long as possible. I know there are some issues with the proximity of the shift rails to the 4L60E pan. Would either one of these kits be better than the other for interference with the shift rails? Sorry for all of the questions, but I don't want to spend a bunch of money and get the wrong parts.
Read through Glenn's build. He did exactly this....
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I have seen it in the past. I need to go back and look again. Thanks Meiser. By the way, thanks for all of the information I have learned from your posts. I have been a fan of your Jeep for some time.

I actually sent Glen a PM. Waiting to hear back
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Spoke to Clayton at Novak. He said the adapter they use has holes to allow 7 degree clocking from each position. It looks like Glenn's only had the 6 holes. See attached photo. Would clocking 7 degrees down from the flipped position make the needed difference without sacrificing too much ground clearance?

 

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Spoke to Clayton at Novak. He said the adapter they use has holes to allow 7 degree clocking from each position. It looks like Glenn's only had the 6 holes. See attached photo. Would clocking 7 degrees down from the flipped position make the needed difference without sacrificing too much ground clearance?

Do the extra work. If the transfer case is hanging down much further than the pan your wasting space.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Do the extra work. If the transfer case is hanging down much further than the pan your wasting space.
I have been looking at every option I can think of. I looked at the Stak replace a case for the Dana 300. This coverts the case to a driver side drop. I tried calling them, but they hard to contact.

I then thought about looking at a Ford Bronco Dana 20. They are driver side drop and relatively short in length. Advanced Adapters makes an adapter to the early 4L60e. Does this seem like a reasonable option. The other option is to look for a passenger drop front axle, but imam happy with my Waggie set. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Still collecting parts I decided to go with a Bronco Dana 20 to get the driver side drop. I found one on Ebay and it is on its way. I have a Dana 300 for sale if anyone is interested.

I also needed some wheels and tires and had none, not even rollers. I bit the dust and ordered some 37 x 14.50 x 15 Toyo Open Country MT tires on 15 X 10 steel wheels. I wanted to stay with the 15 inch rims and I liked the looks of the Toyos and the reviews seemed good.

My steel came in today. When I picked it up, I spoke to the guy who runs the shop and he cut me a quick fish plate for the frame on their plasma table. I dropped a design off later this afternoon and he is going to cut them for me very cheap. I think he liked the idea of making Jeep parts.

I also mad a trip to St. Louis to pick up some BDS 3 1/2 inch lift rear YJ springs. A guy had them on his CJ for a short time and then went to coil overs They still have the tags on them and they were half the price of new ones. They are the lighter weight version for the YJ without a hardtop. I plan to run them spring under. I know someone had some pictures of some nice spring under plates to eliminate the U bolts. Can someone point me in the right direction. Ruff Stuff has some nice ones but I think I will make my own.

I am still waiting on the new M38 fenders and MB grill to come in. Something got messed up in shipping and they went to Dallas. I ordered them from a military restoration shop in St. Louis. They are going to have some of their restorations in a car show this weekend. They said they should have them at the show for me. Sounds like a good excuse to take the M715 to a car show.

I will start on the frame soon. I need to buy or build some spring hangers and I still need some front Wagoneer springs. Getting close to starting. Can't wait.




 

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Discussion Starter #34
I had a good day of work on the frame today. I have looked at several other frames and took a lot of measurements. I am certain I am long at this point, but I want to make sure I have enough room to run the 5.3, 4L60' and Dana 20. The adapter is 2.5 inches long. That should put me at 2 inches longer than a turbo 350. Right now, I am at 131 inches total length (2 inches longer than defbob's). I made the frame 34 inches wide which will put the front springs centered under the frame rails. The Dana 44 front was set up to run under a YJ.

As for the rear of the frame, I tacked in a crossmember between the rails. I have not made my rear bumper yet. I want to get the body on the frame to see how things set. I have a tailgate and would like to keep it. I don't want to trim too much, if any of the body under the tailgate. I may still have to shorten up the rear. I also tacked in a cross member behind the step up in the floor.

My son, Tom, and I took the M715 to a car show in St. Louis yesterday. We parked with the guys from Military Restoration Services. They had some really cool stuf there. We saw a 48 CJ2A with Bantom trailer that looked better than new. Those guys make their own disc brake kit for the older axles that still allows the use of the stock 16 inch rims. A nice setup. They had a special forces M151 that had more weapons than I have ever seen on one vehicle. Anyway, it was a good time and I picked up my new front fenders and MB grill while I was there.

Anyway, here are some pictures of the frame thus far. I am open for suggestions.





 

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Nice work. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Also wise choice on building your own frame, you'll be happy that you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks. I am already glad I am building my own frame. There are still some things I need to figure out, such as how to build the rear bumper so I don't have to trim the bottom of the body, not interfere with the tailgate, and not have the body too high off of the frame. I think I have a plan in mind.

I don't comment much on the other posts simply because my skills are lacking compared to most here. I have simply been reading and learning. I am amazed at some of the fabrication skills I have seen.

With that said, here are some photos of my frame joints welded together and the fish plates welded on. Fish plates are 3/16. I wish I had a bigger welder so I could use the solid wire and gas, but I am having to use flux core for the work on the frame. Been looking at a Millermatic. They have a nice rebate going on. For now, my Hobart 140 is doing the job. I welded a lot today, and not one issue with the welder.

I was able to trim the outsides of the firewall braces so I did not have to remove them completely. They fit nicely between the frame rails now.










 

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Discussion Starter #37
Well, it is like Christmas in August. I went to the garage last night and there was a box with a note on the top saying "Happy 25th Anniversary". In the box was:



I was not expecting that. I have a great wife that doesn't mind my Jeep projects. I am a lucky guy.

Also, today the big truck came with my new 37 Toyo's on steel wheels, front Wagoneer springs from General Spring, and a bunch of pieces from Ruff Stuff. I will start with getting the rear suspension set in place. I really can't do anything with the front until I get the drivetrain together and set in place to see how long everything is. There is plenty to keep me busy for a while now.





 

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I had a good weekend in the garage. it was in need of a good cleaning. Trying to build a project in a 24x24 garage with another Jeep already in there, plus tools, parts, etc. There just isn't enough room.

After cleaning things up, I pulled the axles outside and gave them a good cleaning of all the old mud. Then a good sanding, priming, and painting. I know I am a bit ahead of myself with the rear axle since I still need to weld the perches on, but I figured that will be while. Not sure where the pinion angle needs to be yet.

I had to narrow the frame ever so slightly. When I got the springs on the front axle and under the frame, the springs were not perfectly centered. Since I am running the shackle hangers through the frame, there would be a little bind. That meant cutting the frame apart and shortening the cross members. They were only tacked so not a huge deal, but a pain none the less.

I really like the looks of the Toyo MT tires. I have always stayed with BFG or Goodyear, but I like the 37 in a 15 inch rim. I also like the 14.50 width. I rolled one under the rear fender to see what it looks like. I think it will be the perfect size once the rear fender is trimmed.

Tomorrow will be setting the rear axle in place and building the rear bumper. Enough said. Here are some pictures.









 

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Finished the rear bumper today. It probably doesn't look a whole lot different than many others. I tapered the lower two inches on each corner at 45 degrees, then straight up to the top of the bumper. I used some of Ruff Stuff's 1 x 2 x 4 inch weld through clevis hangers. I also included a two inch receiver hitch through the center of the bumper.

I did not want to cut the bottom of the body in the rear so I set a 2 x 4 piece of tubing on edge at the bottom of the frame between the frame rails. I left it extending 2 inches past the rear of the frame rails. I then attached the bumper to it. This resulted in a 2 x 2 inch notch where the body sits down in. I also tied the 2 x 2 hitch into the 2 X 4 that was welded between the frame rails. Everything has been or will be gusseted for additional strength.

I also set the body back on the frame to figure out where the rear axle should sit. I looked at other threads and tried to imagine how the tire would come up into the fender. I think I have it good. I wanted to keep it as far back as possible without a comp cut.

Here are some photos.











 
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