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Discussion Starter #101
I got the floor tunnel finished. I bed lined and painted the underneath side, olive drab. It fits better than the first one and is a heck of a lot lighter. Still plenty strong.

I also got the new rear output from Advance Adapters installed. It uses one stud and four bolts to mount, with the stud going at 8 o'clock. Well, I forgot to account for clocking the transfer case up so.....Also, when I was pulling the old rear tail shaft unit off, two of the roller bearings fell into the case. I found one but I had to remove the access pan to find the other. Needless to say, I turned a half hour job into and hour and a half.

Here is a picture of the units side by side. The new output shaft is definitely heavy duty. Unfortunately, the added length puts the rear drive shaft at 13 1/4 inches. It looks like the rear shaft will be running about20 degrees.


 

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For the drive shaft being that short 20 degrees isn't bad, I was doing some measuring last week and I think I was close to 18" at around 24 degrees. I still have a lot of weight to add, so I expect it to drop closer to 20 degrees when finished.
I've got a 3" hang down at the transfer case, if I remember right you were closer to 2".
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Yea, I don't have all of the weight in it yet, so I stood on the rear bumper on one side and measured the droop. I did some calculations and came up with where I feel it should be with fuel, seats, top, and 2 people. I then used ratchet straps to crank it down to where I think/want it to ride. Actually, with all of the weight in, I think the back is going to be a bit lower than I want it - about an inch. I may end up modifying my spring pack or going to a one inch bigger lift spring. For YJ rear springs that are supposed to be for a hardtop model, they sure seem soft. Maybe it's just me. I definitely need to get my bump stops located correctly, and I an going to run a limiting strap at the rear differential so the driveshaft doesn't extend too far.
 

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I may have asked before, but how many leafs do your springs have?
I bought 5 leaf (hardtop) but was told to take the second to bottom leaf out by bds, and see how things ended up. If needed, I can add it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Sorry for the slow response. Mine are the 5 leaf like yours. To me they seem way soft. If I stand on the rear corner of the bumper, it feels like it goes down a couple of inches. I weigh about 215.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I purchased bump stops through Ruff Stuff. I have not really looked at mounting them yet. I am wondering if I should have purchased smaller ones. I know the larger ones will be softer upon impact, but I am not sure how much the bigger ones will compress. I want to make sure I get all the travel I can without getting the tires into the fenders.

Also, In the rear, I need to watch for compression so that my rear differential does not get into the fuel tank. I don't think it could ever get that high since it would require both springs to fully compress at the same time. I am certainly open to suggestions on this.



http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/R1778-full.jpg

I may make some kind of adjustable mount like this. I like the idea of being able to adjust them. I also like the threaded mount idea shown below. Sorry, not sure how to just post the picture.

http://diy4x.com/images/P/DSC01501.JPG

https://roadracemotorsports.com/store/images/Adjustable Weld In Bump Stops.jpg
 

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I haven't purchased anything yet but I like the idea of adjustable bump stops. The last link with the threaded adjustment looks interesting, not as bulky as the first one.
I was thinking about a mount with one plate on each side of the frame with through bolts, multiple holes drilled in the plates for adjustment but only one set of holes through the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
So it has been a long time since I posted. I have been on the hunt for another vehicle. My wife says I am like the guy in the old VW commercial, where he has a VW on his head. The caption on the commercial was "Something on your mind?"

I usually always have some sort of cheap car to drive so I don't put so many miles on my Ram towing vehicle. I recently sold a Mini Cooper S and decided I was going to purchase a Jeep TJ as my daily driver.

Here in the midwest, rust is always an issue, especially with frame rust on the TJ's. For that reason I looked at southern states.

I really didn't want to spend a lot of money, but wanted a 4.0 and I hoped to find one with the Dana 44 rear. I was amazed at how much money the 15 plus year old Jeeps were bringing.

I thought I found one in Florida, and after many discussions and photos, I decided to make the trip (about 1000 miles each way). As soon as I pulled up and saw it, I knew I was going to go home with an empty trailer. Then on the return trip, my right rear trailer tire blew, and badly damaged the aluminum fender. After a quick tire change, some bending, and a couple ratchet straps, I was back on the road. I did a little over 2000 miles in about 35 hours. I had about 4 hours sleep in the back seat in a rest area in Southern Georgia.

I found another one that was listed as a project. This one was in Birmingham. It was listed as a 98 TJ with a newly built high pinion 30 and 8.8 rear. The owner was a young guy who is an engineer for Honda and said he simply did not have time to finish it, and said he had too many projects. He rebuilt the axles last Thanksgiving with 4.88 gears and Ected lockers. The rear end was trussed. Both axles had Solid differential covers. It came equipped with a Smittybilt winch with synthetic line, front and rear off road bumpers, rock sliders, fully adjustable upper and lower control arms, adjustable track bars, Corbeau front seats, 4 Rigid cube lights, and a few other extras. He has aslo installed new 17 inch Raceline Monster Beadlock wheels and 35 inch Maxis Trepador radial tires. He said they might have a couple hundred miles on them. He had not even wired the lockers yet. He said it had been sitting in his grandma's garage since last Thanksgiving.

He said the rear end had a little squeak to it that got faster as speeds increased. He thought it might be the pinion bearing. I drove it a short distance and asked if the noise could be the rear driveshaft. He said it did not make the noise until he installed the new rear end so he assumed it was something in the axle.

The Jeep had been trailed and had some minor scratches, and the clearcoat on the hood was checking. The top wasn't in great shape, but there was zero rust and I wanted it.

I ended up getting it for $5500. The wheels, tires, and axles were worth more than that. It is a 4.0 with 5 speed. The engine has 140,xxx miles. He said he had the head off and redone in the last couple years. Other than the exhaust, the engine is stock and runs well.

So I have been spending the last several weeks looking for a Jeep and working on the TJ. Ends up the rear end was fine. The problem was the rear driveshaft which is being rebuilt now. I found a brand new never installed Bestop full NX top on Craigslist for $400. A guy bought it last fall to have for the summers, and upgraded to a JK before he installed it. He just wanted to get rid of it. On Quadratec it lists for about $950.

Anyway, I am trying to get it ready before our Colorado trip which is coming up quick. I would like to trailer it out and run some trails around Buena Vista. Here is a couple of pictures of the TJ.

Loaded for trip back to Illinois:



After a good cleaning. It was my wife's idea to Armor All the tires. :D







Can you tell the guy was an Alabama Grad?

I did actually make a little progress on the Willys. I constructed a skid plate for the transmission and transfer case. I constructed it out of 3/16 plate and used some square tube bracing for strength. I will mount the transfer case/transmission mount on the skid plate to replace what I had previously built for it. Here are a couple photos.





 

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Discussion Starter #110
So, it has been a long time since I posted. When I lost the ability to post photos from Photobucket, I kept reading, but stopped posting. I have gotten a lot done recently, but the project had taken a back seat for a while. My youngest son challenged me to complete it to take to Moab this year for EJS, so I have been working on it every extra minute.

I am about to complete the wiring, both chassis and engine. I still need to have the ECM reflashed, but I have a friend coming tomorrow to help with that. Here are a few photos, or at least I hope I can post some up.

The photos are of where I was a couple weeks ago with the fresh paint (not enough flattener). The picture of the fender blank mounted is from when I purchased some CJ-7 aluminum fender blanks from Genright and installed them. They fit the rear fender radius well. I simply cut the wheel arch and added a little material to the bottom in front of the fender to meet my rock guards.

Again, sorry I have been away from posting. I will try to add photos as a figure it out better.

By the way, is there a flat fender run this year at Moab? I would love to join in if there is.
 

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It's nice to see this moving forward, photobucket set me back for sure. That motor sure looks good in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Thanks Willyn. The engine almost looks too fancy for a Jeep, especially those red fuel rails. But, that is what came with the intake. This project is definitely trying to put 10 pounds in an 8 pound bag. Everything is a tight fit.

Got the rest of the wiring done today, and pulled the program off of the ECM to retune it. Mounted the heater and ran hoses. Buttoning up a lot of little things now. A more pictures from a week ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I ran all new brakes throughout the Jeep. Ni-cop lines, new stainless braided hoses, new rotors and calipers on the front (Jeep GW) and new Cadillac El Dorado calipers in the rear. Running a hydroboost from a GMC full size van with 1 1/8 bore Willwood master cylinder and Jegs proportioning valve/distribution block.

I bench bled the MC and mounted it on the hydroboost. Rigged up a bottle with brake fluid and went to the right rear brake to begin bleeding process. The pedal went to the floor each time I pressed it but no fluid moving. I left the MC on the Jeep and hooked up the bench bleed hoses to make sure it was moving fluid, and it was.

I ran out of time so I thought I would just hook the lines back up and see if it might gravity bleed to any of the brakes. Nothing. I removed the lines from the MC to the distribution block and fluid was dripping out. I re-attached the feed lines and removed the lines that go from the distribution block to the brakes. Nothing.

I called Jegs and got another distribution valve coming (their distribution valve looks exactly like Willwood's). Here is my question: If the distribution valve is sending no fluid out, wouldn't the pedal be firm?

Anyway, I hope the new distribution valve/proportioning valve will fix the problem.

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Been/was busy getting it ready for Moab. We were supposed be leaving tomorrow. Have to wait for next year. Anyway, the push for Moab has finally caused me to get motivated to get this thing done.

I goththe brakes figured out. It was a bad master cylinder - brand new Wilwood. I put the factory MC on that came with the hydroboost when I purchased it used. I had removed it thinking it would not clear the hood. Well, it clears by 1/4 inch, but the brakes are working now.

I had to make new rear seat brackets since the roll cage goes around behind the seat. I moved it up and forward a little. The back seat is tight and I had to put the battery back there, but it will still work for a couple of my grandsons.

I actually drove it a little the other day. Didn't take it far since I have no plates - can't even get them right now due to the virus. It drove nice and straight.

Got the bender out yesterday and started working on a crossbar behind the seats so I can attach the seat harnesses. I am making the bar removable. I still have some small wiring to clean up, seatbelts to install, and top to put on. Been waiting for a little warmer weather to do the top.

Here are a few pictures.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0ht2U6k6-dzVNwuJ5qz9GB-1-4lo_5eO0ieZlJgfju-cFJicZmRNNPtbiNfHHRHRaJNJW1kVe4iEqLAr0aYEgnHJjQftkvvhSOOgTPl8KfU_onYbcuwXV4MfjDtb4L71DYVeI72B2jIJL-XM7cHg36YJE8JyNAQGYtMaTUGwzSMAaQ-kXlYc_3mqYmK7IjKT87pMa3HRHVJum2UGL2hH8jAlrafU_a8iQMBuFvz43WoE0AK6r3ukBAcoUwCqQlpvlcZpxb3tIXHAU8soiyjsmv8YpQPryHYpu-K8JhspRvgCPxl8vWpoeem3sGbE8DAMje9EjZ-P_qZvAsmrto4p4ivAYd8XGrA-QXMFdgfZ2AmE7_H6N7Ir6Lu1X4JGiMzRlfQ9-l7456NNxVoipo-pgkBhhVkKCbMo9YzolmNbN9EUnyW_MOrGs294lZrqksFNkckdW-1jUXGHtWdvTsgcjnRHywSVntaRc9K9WoBCiVSbbyINDssBRNxrD4hUbOCCzt6-ocZfcqsG-Cco0o6WYuFUH7O3KA75QvoE1SKhQFuBTK4TXIFHEW-QeQCOZKM7mClCkSt4yBkW4xQ8CAwaQ1-FJi2YAgZuqkAEPfLLPu8JGX6oMvuY0XyC-Pr8D1t1PpVwVyIWAaMprl3-8R69AZS9Z-0QjvsCDCr-EmPp4uKoawUcvCVetY2QlnqGJQ=w834-h625-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AAQmm7o2h9Fg_zA6l500TD10MBKuUi82O98nZuWhlGZkADYpoVjTze-vbCO2u7GnEdzEHx66WnN89OKVpV4ykR9TrqnF6U6mgVqd70xVp8FHmhhEtheRKWpdC5zszaqpoG2GMCxxUvkiro_4XeVXvcJ_Is9IkRmqlV14GT9-JkbsNywGgXskPO0AY6OvUfxQToOfqM0YQjIZFz0L0Lcr2y4Y7qEh-dfg1--1nDs70duDLPJyrGT8aFrNBq-XiAPrYYN0a6VB0rJjcIeDeJndN-NGtfN4n9q57JmsOSDYNbIMKPtNub8yB2j6YiqeFChWVGyyI_ziDtY7ekXskwk1tBy0d-7gYMBPsmk_GhWFC6uFJq-ufSyMm3tzO2qT5iiXvppNpE4Jae4c0H2n8Nojn4TFab1n2x_eAou6iKuM83ANh9GXo9XxqCdBGbteQ5HcydPHV_1thyDdwssFTpQ2sngE8UDi1Ed0PnGOdfnJ-o1jg0NlCmAHWWZTdJxH3yG_J1BBB6Ue0V8kBjY84tevT3F0jDjLjqXRk2GssvMEmG7BLjEWc_ORV_zR-zGLmmHxQxEFrvkAtjopD1WGWfhX-_CvNMU8JLoTOHU5sn9fkNNbrjYwHdDAzCj-kFAdfL08pP2FGXXjc0KQIh8zMDmyhZSqMYh7HbMTJWNaUyPpQ_fdIsbbbJh1Z8eiBsfOKg=w834-h625-no
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I finished the bar behind the seats for the 5 point harness and got them installed. Waiting for belts for the rear seat.

When I purchased injectors for the LS-1/6 style manifold, I purchased refurbished ones off of Ebay that were listed for LS-1. The guy that tuned the ECM has not been able to get the injectors right (too lean on one end and too rich on the other). He said the numbers on the injectors (Bosch) are from a Volvo. I went ahead and ordered new injectors for an LS-1 from Rock Auto. The ECM will be re-flashed for the new injectors tomorrow. Even with the old injectors, it seemed to drive fine, although at idle it almost sounded like it had a little lope from a high performance cam. The engine has been left basically stock other than the block hugger headers and the LS-1 style intake for clearance purposes.

It is supposed to be sunny and the upper 70's tomorrow, so I am going to install the Bestop Tiger Top. Still little things to tweak, but once the top is on, it should be mostly done (never really done).

A few more pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Got the top on. There approximately 3 hours install time is about 5, at least at my speed. It turned out good, but some of the instructions left a bit to be desired.

I put the spare tire on. Boy is that thing heavy. Notice the ramp I rolled it up with. If I ever get a flat on the trail, the getting the spare off will be the easy part. I would really like to get some Trail Ready beadlocks, but since I stayed with 15 inch wheels, I have some doubt they will clear the Wagoneer calipers.
 

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That's a real nice looking ride you've got there! Lots of work, but worth it in the end.
Now you can start bashing it up on the trails and post lots of pics for all of us willys voyeurs out here!
And maybe do a few burnouts too.
 
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