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Discussion Starter #1
With the help of some local Awesome friends I got my spare rear housing trussed, and sprung over. We used 1.75X.120 wall DOM for the truss and bent it to a 45deg and 55deg to notch into the axle housing. I took the welds REALLY slow so things would not pull and warp. It turned out great. I will get it under the zuk and the Anti-wrap bar from Spidertrax installed in the upcoming weeks in prep for my short trip down to MOAB on the 19th.

 

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(scraching head)...... What good is that bar going to do there?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
the way the spidertrax anti-wrap bar exherts force on the axle works along that plane. They highly reccomend that style of bar to minimize the flex of the housing along that plane.

the spidertrax bar is a single bar unit that uses the spring pack for the top link of a ladder bar concept so a lot of force goes through the whole system.

http://www.spidertrax.com/suspension_anw.htm
 

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I don't get it?

It looks like that bar will be dragging alot on the rocks. I am looking at the spring perchas vs where the bar is welded. It looks like the angle of the perchis will be tipping that bar down and there for will be hitting alot of rocks?




Is it me or am I jsut not looking at it rite?
 

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FLEXYSAMMY said:
I don't get it?

It looks like that bar will be dragging alot on the rocks. I am looking at the spring perchas vs where the bar is welded. It looks like the angle of the perchis will be tipping that bar down and there for will be hitting alot of rocks?




Is it me or am I jsut not looking at it rite?
Thats what it looks like to me too...

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spencurai said:
it is flat. I don't run a CV shaft so it will be flat. there are several optical illusions in this picture for some reason?!?


If you don't run a CV shaft then it would be more of a reason to have the pinion up more?

Like i said i am going off the spring pearches vs that bar and the pinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
umm no. When you don't run a CV shaft, your output and input planes have to be parallel. meaning a straight line coming from the output on your t-case should be parallel to a straight line coming from your pinion. On a CV shaft you point the pinion at a straight line TO the output shaft. Since I don't have a CV shaft, my pinion must be pretty flat.

I haven't heard of anyone else doing this type of truss so we will see what we get. :D



and for a CV shaft

 

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Thanks for the lesson. I run a CV so didn't realize that.


You better get some pictures up I am very curiouse as to how this works.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FLEXYSAMMY said:
Thanks for the lesson. I run a CV so didn't realize that.


You better get some pictures up I am very curiouse as to how this works.
I just went out and looked at it again, there is a bit of a downward slope of 2 or 3 degrees difference between the spring perches and the truss. you guys have good eyes from a crappy picture...that picture was taken at midnight in pure black conditions with a hefty flash on my digicam so I was not expecting it to be so accurate. I have to weld up a spare rear diff and toss it in there so I can use the lock-wrong up front. I am sick of the play inherent in locker designs!!

anyway it will be in there soon.

I did have a statement of 3 degrees down in my original post but realized it was not from a perfectly reliable source so I edited it...thanks for the clarification.

now I know that a u-joint has an operational range of about 3-5 degrees and not much more without vibes.....
 

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RudeZuk said:

But the axle joint needs to be pointed at a 3-5* difference for the lower ujoint to work properly
Yes and no. There's a couple reasons for the couple degrees out from what the diagram states.

The idea around the 2-3 degree difference is so that the u-joint lubes the needle bearings as it rotates.

You keep the "misaligned" angle low so that you don't feel the out of balance forces caused by the single u-joint that is not running in a balanced state. One u-joint is unbalanced - two is balanced. This is why the intermediate shaft has tow joints (among other reasons) for example.

In a leaf spring suspension the u-joint will move a few degrees or so as the suspension travels, even on highway or whatever. The joint gets lubed.

The couple degree thing might be more critical on a coil setup - depends on the suspension geometry I guess.

The other reason for pointing the diff a couple degrees out is so that the diff ends up "true" as torque is applied (spring wrap). You can get the same sort of phenomena with a coil suspension - depending on geometry and lift with torque/weight transfer.

We aren't building with space shuttle precision, make it like the diagram and chances are it will be out a degree or two once the truck is on its wheels. That's my theory. :D

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now he can remove his rear bumper...cool are you going to weld a spare tire carrier on it too that would be KEWL

Seriously
 

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nice pics of the driveshaft thing....wouldn't happen to have a good pic of how that anti-wrap bar is positioned?
 

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I still dont see why we need this , this bar.... truss, whatever you wanna call it :rolleyes:

About the driveshaft thing, Any one here ever snap a CV joint and fix it or try to fix it on the trail ? Spares could be costly.

Now on another note id say i agree with those diagrams above. But with the regular driveshaft ive usually tried to keep it paralell as noted earlier. But this dude once told me that once the angle gets too steep you have to throw away the paralell theory shit cuz its just too much angle. Scratched my head on that one but if thats the case maybe we can say its just not really set up right. Thoughts ?

And can we have a sideshot of the diff so we can see this bar/truss thingy and perches ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
the reason you need the truss is because if you don't the axle housing will bend in half from the stresses of the spider trax anti-wrap bar. if you haven't figured that out, ya need a physics lesson.
 

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A better question might be has anyone been able to use that anti-wrap bar, and have it work? Seems to me it is just going to "S" the shit out of your springs since it increases the forces into the spring.

By the way, yes, I guess I need a physics lesson. I'll pull out my pencils if you are going to start instructing. If you slipped a little 3/16" plate or so between the added tube and the diff, then I think you would have a much stronger unit. (front to rear) As it is I don't see much gain in strength. In fact I'd be a bit afraid that a large impact on that added tube would bend it , thus warping the housing.

Either way, that big ass tube is going to get hung up a lot. I just don't get it..

-Wayne
 
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