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Discussion Starter #1
Since gofastbroncos site is down and every link I've searched is either dead or I'm not finding what I'm trying to figure out I'll ask here.

Picked up a 92 bronco. Before everyone says swap a hp44 or a 60 under I'm not interested in going that route.

I have a pair of ttb44 arms and a complete ttb50. The idea is to extend the 44 beams put the 50 chunk in and possibly put the inner 50 c's on along with the 50 outers. Does anyone have measurements of cutting and extending the 44 beams along with opening the window up? Or is it mostly put it all on the chassis and start figuring it out? Also how much are people extending the lower balljoint out to correct the camber on a 50?
 

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Why not just do all of that to the TTB 50 and put that in?




I'm not a Ford TTB guy so maybe that's a stupid question.....
 

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Why not just do all of that to the TTB 50 and put that in?




I'm not a Ford TTB guy so maybe that's a stupid question.....
I thought about that but the 50 arms are shorter the mounting points are different plus no mounts for radius arms since they are leaf sprung. I talked to solo and they can build the arms for me. About 3k with inner shafts but I need to send in cores and shipping on those would he about 700-1k
 

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I thought about that but the 50 arms are shorter the mounting points are different plus no mounts for radius arms since they are leaf sprung. I talked to solo and they can build the arms for me. About 3k with inner shafts but I need to send in cores and shipping on those would he about 700-1k

Who was going to modify all the D44 TTB stuff you mentioned in the first post? :confused:


If you have to pay someone to build it either way, what would be the difference in doing the 44 vs the 50? :confused:
 

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plan on running a 60/70/sterling rear?

Or why else would you run 50 outers? Maybe the joints at the stubs are stronger, but everything else is still 30 spline.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Who was going to modify all the D44 TTB stuff you mentioned in the first post? :confused:


If you have to pay someone to build it either way, what would be the difference in doing the 44 vs the 50? :confused:
I dont have to pay anyone to build them if I can figure out the geometry I need to achieve. I can get anything laser cut out as far as bracing the arms. Have a table I can build a jig. Was just stating I've been told it's doable if I want to pay..

From what research i can find the 50 arms are not worth working with I just want the knuckles for 8 lug and 60 hubs/bearings/balljoints

plan on running a 60/70/sterling rear?

Or why else would you run 50 outers? Maybe the joints at the stubs are stronger, but everything else is still 30 spline.
Have a disc 70 with 488s already and a 50 chunk with arb and gears also. I know I can source parts from a chevy to get 8 lug on the 44. Also to ditch the 19 spline stub and run 30 spline throughout
 

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go search on race-dezert and gofastbroncos. Several people have done what you want to do.

The easiest way to do what you want is to extend the D50 beams, add mount points for radius arms (which really isn't hard compared to all the other shit you have to do to extend and modify a TTB, I don't see why this is a big hang up for so many people) and then modify the inboard ends as needed to find your pivot points.

It really isn't hard to nail the geometry if you build a jig and only modify one end of the beam at a time.
 

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The easiest way to do what you want is to extend the D50 beams, add mount points for radius arms (which really isn't hard compared to all the other shit you have to do to extend and modify a TTB, I don't see why this is a big hang up for so many people) and then modify the inboard ends as needed to find your pivot points.

It really isn't hard to nail the geometry if you build a jig and only modify one end of the beam at a time.

This.

If you have access to a jig and a laser cutter, get those 50 beams set up in a jig with the factory geometry and start modifying to your liking. Once you get it nailed down in the jig build a crossmember to support the beams in the truck and go from there.

My buddy put a TTB 50 in the front of his YJ a few years ago. He made a custom crossmember to mount the beams, used RuffStuff parts to build radius arms and put on 14" air shocks. All that stuff was fairly straight forward. Hardest thing was getting the steering figured out. He ended up with something similar to a swing set setup.
 

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What the hell is in that kit that makes it cost over a grand?
I don't disagree that it's a little overpriced. However it's not terribly overpriced when you consider:

-plates are cut to proper length & angle for alignment- hard to say how much that is worth exactly. But if the cut & turn isn't done correctly you could suffer from alignment & tire wear issues, proper axle fitment etc. Certainly can be done without anything else to go off of, but personally I'd take the confidence of simply matching up the beams to the layout of the plates and get to burning them in.

&

-Extended 4340 Axle shafts are also included. Perhaps $200-250ish on the axle value

So let's assume there is $400 worth of laser cut steel and $250 worth of axles, the kit is $400 over cost of materials. Just depends on how many hours and headache it saves.

Edit:

Alternative to DIY would be completed cut & turned beams. $2800ish
 

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Lots of threads out there on various forums discussing this topic. Have yet to find a crystal clear answer as to how to get it done properly other than "make sure everything clears" & "camber is at 0". There's definitely more than 1 way to skin this cat it seems.

Dave at Threat will take your call and talk to you about the DIY kit & my guess is he'd give you tips on how to do them properly. Since he does these all the time, you'll get better information from one conversation with him than you will on this forum or any other forum.

He was great to me and we talked for probably 45 minutes and exchanged several emails before I ever pulled the trigger on my suspension system.
 
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