This guy? Even though you don't know me that sounds weird for me to read.
I too am curious however, nobody would answer me over there.
I too am curious however, nobody would answer me over there.
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Sorry, I don't. Never crossed my mind to take pictures, and they have been in the tube for about a year now, so none left roling around the shop to show ya. I can tell you this though, I bought left and right hand B7 threaded rod to make my adjustable bushings, Jam nuts for each end of each link, and the lef tand right had coupling nuts and had just over $300 into those materials. B7 is far more expensive than even grade 8, but it was the only grade that I could get both left and right hand rod in. The left hand couplers were about $20 each, and the right hand ones were about $8 each if I remember correctly, so average price wasn't much worse than buying big inserts, it was the threaded rod that made my eyes bulge, I think I had $200 just into the two 3 foot chunks of rod... In the end I wished that I had just bought joints and inserts, but it was too late to go back 
Later,
Jason
Later,
Jason
I, like lots of people around here, have spent the better part of my adult life learning how to do things elegantly. You're spending a lot of detail time on your buggy, don't you want it to look top notch when its done? Of course... and you've done a hell of a job thus far making sure that's the case.X-Rated said:
Is a tube adapter quick and easy? Sure. Does it work? Absolutely. Is there a better, more elegant way? I certainly think so... and guy has a lathe.
Lets assume that a turned down tube nut is NEVER going to fail. You're still gonna have to chase it with a tap after welding (it IS gonna shrink some). So the tap is now out anyway...
So I'd rather have this:
BTW... I still think turning down a tube nut instead of making it by hand is lame.
On a tie rod, I too make them by hand, cut and turn, and tap on the lathe. It is strong, quick, easy, and not a problem with 1.25 3/8" wall tube. Drill and tap to 7/8" fine.
That being said, if you are building a lower link, unless you absolutly want a 1/2" wall or thicker, there is no good way to do this on a lathe that makes sense. Like I said, Most people will be fine with 2" .25 wall lowers, some people need more, and the mostly go up in OD, keeping the id the same. Since the biggest joints used today (99.9%) of the time are 1.25 12tpi shanked, you need an ID of 1-1.125 to drill and tap. So you are looking at .5 wall tubing or bigger.
The only way to use a 2" or bigger link with .25 wall or 3/8" wall, is to use a tube adapter. And even if you wanted to use .5 wall 2" tubing, you still have an almost imposible task of trying to get it in the lathe to work with it.
That being said, if you are building a lower link, unless you absolutly want a 1/2" wall or thicker, there is no good way to do this on a lathe that makes sense. Like I said, Most people will be fine with 2" .25 wall lowers, some people need more, and the mostly go up in OD, keeping the id the same. Since the biggest joints used today (99.9%) of the time are 1.25 12tpi shanked, you need an ID of 1-1.125 to drill and tap. So you are looking at .5 wall tubing or bigger.
The only way to use a 2" or bigger link with .25 wall or 3/8" wall, is to use a tube adapter. And even if you wanted to use .5 wall 2" tubing, you still have an almost imposible task of trying to get it in the lathe to work with it.
Funkel said:I, like lots of people around here, have spent the better part of my adult life learning how to do things elegantly. You're spending a lot of detail time on your buggy, don't you want it to look top notch when its done? Of course... and you've done a hell of a job thus far making sure that's the case.
Is a tube adapter quick and easy? Sure. Does it work? Absolutely. Is there a better, more elegant way? I certainly think so... and guy has a lathe.
Lets assume that a turned down tube nut is NEVER going to fail. You're still gonna have to chase it with a tap after welding (it IS gonna shrink some). So the tap is now out anyway...
So I'd rather have this:
![]()
BTW... I still think turning down a tube nut instead of making it by hand is lame.
Thanks dude- and don't worry, it adds character
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