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Is a toyota axle really that big of an upgrade? I think putting 150$ into this is going to be great until Chris can get a 60 or bling it up with a fab9.

Its got all the upgrades it can have and isn't too much different than a 44.
I'm guessing that's more than $150. If it all works out and he's happy, good for him.

We all do dumb shit. Learning from it is the important part.
True
 

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I'm guessing that's more than $150. If it all works out and he's happy, good for him.
Ok, even if it was $400, good luck finding a toyota axle with 30splines, ARB, matching gear ratio, and fresh bearings for anything near that price.

Toyota axles are great, just don't see it being that much better than what he's got.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
What made you decide to build the 10 bolt?
It was on the truck built already when I purchased it. I spent $400 dollars for all the parts to rebuild this and a weekend worth of work. The end goal is to get rid of this as soon as possible and put something along the lines of a 60 in but that is a more involved process and a much more expensive route than I can afford right now.

The plan is to start assembling something on the side at a pace that I can afford and make this axle last.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well my 10 bolt survived JV but my steering box definitely didn't. Ripped the mount off at the waterfall on Wrecking Ball. Made for an interesting exit down the top of wrecking ball. Harbor Freight ratchet strap for the win. Time to build a new mount and will likely be the catalyst to go the hydro assist route. Would like to do high steer while I'm at it so that I can get rid of my stupid tie rod frown. The truck wheeled really well up to this point.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I picked up this bad boy this weekend. Unfortunately, when I made my trailer fenders, they weren't symmetrical and with it fully loaded with this big bitch the driver side rear wheel was about 1/4" from the outer toob. Rather than chance a flat coming back up to San Jose, Russell was kind enough to let me stop by the body shop and make some quick and dirty modifications to clearance my fender...



So I'll be pulling the axles out of this in the next week or so and starting the process of rebuilding them. Plan is to start with the front so I can be 10 bolt free sooner rather than later, and hopefully have the rear follow shortly after. Axles are currently geared with 4.56 and will be sticking with those gears for the foreseeable future. Will likely be installing these under my current suspension set up unless a pile of time and money fall into my lap and I can link it while I'm installing these. That is unlikely. My hope is to build these up over the next season while still wheeling my current setup and do the swap next off season... hopefully my kitchen will be done by then too.

Lots to sort out with rebuilding these. I don't have much experience with either a 60 or a 14 bolt so I'm all ears for suggestions on must haves and gotcha's that everyone has come across. Need to figure out what lockers to go with. Currently have ARB's in the front and rear axles, which are awesome but buying ARB's for a 60 and a 14 bolt is some serious cheddar. The truck basically never gets driven on the street and these axles are wildly over kill for my mighty 22RE even if I go 40's, but having selectable lockers is pretty tight butthole in my opinion.
 

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Nice project and good going on nabbing that truck.

I would think it has a Detroit in the rear 14blt if it was an old cucv (only assuming bc of the 4.56's). If that is the case, and you are staying 4.56 this is my advice:

1) Chromo outers with some joints of the budgets choosing
2) Stock inners will take most anything the 4banger will toss at it
3) Passenger high steer arm
4) Drill out knuckles for 7/8 heims in the stock location
5) Weld the front diff or a lunchbox locker until you wanna upgrade carriers
6) Yukon hubs
7) Toyota/60 29 spline pinion flange
8) 1 1/4 GM Master Cylinder with sky's adapter
9) Hydro assist
10) Profit :flipoff2:

There is obviously more than one way to do this, but after having been through this a few times, these things are the items that seem to hold the most value for the initial upgrade to the 60 imho.
 

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going to be nice :smokin:
 

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Nice project and good going on nabbing that truck.

I would think it has a Detroit in the rear 14blt if it was an old cucv (only assuming bc of the 4.56's). If that is the case, and you are staying 4.56 this is my advice:

1) Chromo outers with some joints of the budgets choosing
2) Stock inners will take most anything the 4banger will toss at it
3) Passenger high steer arm
4) Drill out knuckles for 7/8 heims in the stock location
5) Weld the front diff or a lunchbox locker until you wanna upgrade carriers
6) Yukon hubs
7) Toyota/60 29 spline pinion flange
8) 1 1/4 GM Master Cylinder with sky's adapter
9) Hydro assist
10) Profit :flipoff2:

There is obviously more than one way to do this, but after having been through this a few times, these things are the items that seem to hold the most value for the initial upgrade to the 60 imho.

All this ^^ I basically went the same route on mine when I went tons..

Scott mentored me LOL.

I did upgrade to 35 spline outers. This would effect which Yukon hubs to get. I'm almost tempted to get some drive flanges now. USA Standard 35 spline chromos were around 625 or so for some cost effective chromos.

I initially had hydro assist and it worked well. That being said, I went full hydro when I linked the front and should have done so from the get go. Night and day difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Finally getting around to my 1 ton axle swap. Starting with the 14 bolt since Peter already had the bulk of the parts needed to get this going. Disassembled the everything, cut off perches and brackets and wire wheeled everything I could get to. Ended up going with the Barnes 13 bolt shave kit, no turning down of the ring gear required and you still get about 1.25" of clearance out of it. Smoothed out the rest of the bottom side to hopefully prevent any other potential hang ups. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out, still need to fill the 14th bolt hole. dropped the axle and hubs off to get media blasted and get all the rest of the shit in all the cracks and crevices of the housing cleaned out and ready for welding the truss, perches and shock mounts up.

When I cracked the cover open the pinion was missing a tooth and the straddle bearing was in many pieces. Found a 4.56 ring and pinion on here a while back so I will be installing those into the additional carrier that Peter had. The plan was to just weld up the rear into a nice pretty orb of traction but a mini spool for a 14 bolt is only 150 bucks and seems like a pretty simple solution that doesn't involve burning half a spool of welding wire into some spider gears. Likely going to be going that route.

Once I get back from Baja I'll be pulling the current Toyota rear and getting it ready to mock up the 14 bolt.






 

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Discussion Starter #31
short update. got the axle and hubs back from media blasting. rebuilt with the hubs with all new bearing races and seals. dimple dies and old bearings work pretty good for setting in the new races. ordered up a master install kit and a mini spool this morning from ECGS. Will be pulling the current rear axle out tomorrow night and breaking down the spring pack to get everything mocked up. if anyone is interested in a Toyota rear axle with 4.88's and an ARB let me know.


 

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Discussion Starter #32
got the rear end out last night. passenger seal blew out following MCR, if I get bored I'll replace it before selling the axle but probably not. got the spring pack broken down and the new perches with a spacer on the pack for mock ups. hoping to have the axle tacked into place this evening. the creeper joints in the rear are pretty gross but appear to be in decent shape. not sure if they are really old but they don't have a zerk fitting on them like the ones you can buy today have. will likely just be rebuilding those and drill and tapping a hole for that. Will get the rotors staked onto the hubs and mounted onto the axle. test fit the wheels on the one of the partially assembled hubs and found that I am going to need either a very long lug nut or a bulge style nut with a smaller hex size since the pockets on the Methods are not large. once I have that sorted out I will mount up two of the 39's on the new wheels and start cycling/ trimming as needed. with everything out of way right now there is a bunch of misc shit that I want to clean up that has been bothering me for awhile. Hopefully when all said and done it will be a very pretty poop Toyota under there.

should have the rest of the parts for the disc brake conversion in hand by early next week, followed shortly thereafter by all the goodies for the differential.

Still have no clue what I am planing for bumps. Andrew mentioned some alternative to the bravada bumps that they are using and really liking. But we talked about that on Friday in Baja a few handfuls of beers deep.... so the details of that conversation are limited at best.
Here are some random photos of the progress and some photos of the old alxe if anyone is interested.




 

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Discussion Starter #33
Spent Monday in the garage after my in-laws left this weekend. Started by getting the pinion angle set up. The transfer case is set at 2 degrees and the previous axle was set at 9 degrees. by the letter of the internet law it seems like the goal would be to have the pinion set equal and opposite the output aka 2 degrees up. mocked up it seems like I was just going to be dragging the pinion through every rock the trail has to offer. Seemed likes as long as I was within 1-3 degrees I wouldn't really have any issues. 5 degrees at ride height gave me right around 2 at full bump and about 7 at full droop. The pinion still felt like it was pretty low so I ended up at 7 degrees at ride height, full bump 4, full droop about 9. The previous axle was set at 9 at ride height and I never felt like I had any real issues with it. this thing doesn't go fast and isn't ever driven at freeway speeds on the road so I am not overly concerned.
Got the perches tacked followed by lower shock mounts and started cycling to see how everything was moving together. I was hoping to be able to leave the upper shocks as is but the new lower mounts are significantly lower than where they were on the previous axle so at full bump there is still about 5 inches of shock shaft left. articulated, the shock was definitely the limiting factor and was completely extended. sooo relocating the top mounts it is. ordered some new mounts this morning and will figure that out this next weekend.



Shifted my efforts to the bump stops so I could still keep making progress for the day. built some extensions for the silverado bumps that Andrew recommended (p/n: 15712438). Pretty simple and gives me the ability to lower them down a bit if needed by adding some spacers between the bump and the mounting pad. removed the old mounts and cleaned everything up. obviously the thread rod won't be sticking up through the spring plate once the leaf pack is back together.



so far im pretty happy with how it is turning out. Next up will either be the upper shock mounts or to get the brakes assembled and disc brake brackets tacked in followed by the truss. tomorrow will hopefully be bead lock mounting day so I can start figuring out what else needs to be trimmed back there. once thats figured out I can pull it back out to finish weld everything on the bench. Here how it was sitting at the end of yesterday.


 

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Discussion Starter #34
Spent some time Sunday working on this. trimmed about 2 inches off the extension for the bump. pad makes contacts the bump with the springs flat then I have about 2 more inches to go from there. lots of bedside trimming in my near future. Started to bend some hoops for the shock mount and figure out my plan for out boarding the shocks. didn't get too far before it started raining and to clean up.
Beadlocks mounted




lots of clearance under there.


Need to get some more weight into the bed but this is pretty close to full bump.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
getting back to working on this turd again. got one side mocked up for the new shock location. looking like I will end up with about 5 inches of up travel. I would like to figure out a way to add some bracing to the hoop without cutting too many holes in the bed. will keep plugging away this week to finish up the driver side, cycle everything to double check clearances and get it all welded up.



 

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Discussion Starter #37
I'll finish thing someday.... been too busy with work and weddings to get much time in the garage to accomplish anything
Was able to get everything finished welded and starting to put it all back together. got the hard lines for the brakes dialed in with some steel braided lines made up to go from 3/16th to 10x1.5mm banjo on the calipers. Working on getting the gears set up now, never done it before so its been a fun learning experience thus far. pulled the trigger on a fresh set of 5.38's instead of the 4.56's i was planning on. photos of its current state.




 
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