Pirate 4x4 banner

61 - 80 of 92 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Engine crossover brace is in with the reservoirs zipped tied for mock up. hood still closes so i am pretty happy with that. i could have added about an inch in between bends and gotten it to sit a little closer to the engine but the throttle assembly is pretty tight to the brace as is. havent bent much tube in about a year so i was a bit rusty on figuring out all my measurements and notches. first time using the air/hydraulic ram with my JD2 and i should have bought that about 3 years ago.
Ram mount off the link mount is next.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
How many forums are you going to post this in? .!.. :D ..!.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Ram is mocked up in about the only place that it could live. The link mount was conveniently radius'd allowing the ram to sit pretty tight to the brackets while still having clearing through the entire throw of the steering even if the tie rod ends up floping a bit in the heims. Thinking that making some sort of skid/ tube structure to protect my nice shiny ram would be a good idea. The axle isnt heavy enough yet so i might as well throw some more tube at it.

Cycled through full bump to full droop, articulating either side. with the the driver side at full bump and passenger side at full drop i have about 1/4" of clearance between the coil and the bump stop mount on the passenger side. going to try to move the lower mount out another 1/4 - 3/8" but its already about as far out as it can go. May just be something that i have to live with. Other than that, I'm really happy with how everything is packaged. Need to modify the orbital mount a bit but outside of that, nearly all the big ticket items are accounted for. Lots of plumbing and wiring to sort out. I want to get the hydraulic lines made up and cycle everything one last time before tearing everything back down to finish weld and paint. I do need to figure out a bumper/ winch mount but that is not really affecting any of the suspension components.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Orbital is in place as well as some new body mounts. Tried to mount the ram off the driver steering arm but panhard pretty quickly eliminated all possibilities of that. going to bend up an 1 3/4" tube hoop to protect the ram. Plumbing the hydraulic lines is going to be a bit of pain, in particular making the reservoir the highest point of the system. I pulled the fan off the motor in favor for an electric fan to help free up some space and give me some additional options for plumbing. Need to pick up an electric fan, but im sure i can reference Murphys 14 page thread on fan selection and fan relay wiring for direction in that department.
At this point, this thing is ready to be broken down so that i can finish weld everything (i think...). Im going to pull the motor and trans to in order to give me some room to work and bench weld as much of this as i can. Once its back in place and all the electrical/ fuel connections are made i can get a better sense of where the hydraulic lines can get routed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
full droop with limit straps set. the lower mount isnt in my favorite spot but is doesnt interfere with anything and it was one of the only places that worked with the double shear mounts i have. It would be nice to have a little adjustability as well so i may pick up some clevis mounts which would give me a few other options for mounting locations but this will suffice for the time being.




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Fairly productive weekend. Got the stock toyota steering shaft onto the new column stub shaft. Drilled out the splines of the stock u joint to fit over the 3/4" stub shaft. Ground out a key in the stub shaft to allow for the bolt to pass through and clamp the u joint to the shaft as well as key it to the shaft. Pulled the gas tank to make welding the frame side link mounts a little less stressful. Lots of room for activities under there with the tank gone. leaning towards mounting the tank in the bed and building a baja rack above the tank for lightweight bags and a small cooler. Still able to fit the Pelican cases on either side of so it would be an efficient use of the space. Long term i would like to get an actual fuel cell but need to do some research on running a cell with the stock filler neck (or at least having a means of connecting the stock filler neck for smog checks).

Electric fan mount is complete. I know its not very shroud like but i have not been running a shroud with the previous fan and have not had any issues with over heating. If I run into some cooling issues, i can work on building an actual shroud and put an actual motor that makes heat aka power in place of that huge 22re.

Pulled the motor, trans and axle out of the truck in preparation for a lot of welding. I'm not a very big fan of the frame side mounts of the Front Range T Case crossmember. the crossmember sits on top of the frame side mounts so the entire transmission has to slide back while staying at the same elevation, which presents clearance issues with the firewall. I am thinking about looping off the frame side mounts and integrating a more traditional bushing style mount with horizontal mounting bolts instead of the current vertical configuration. I dont intend to being pulling the transmission very often, but it seems significantly easier to do now instead of later. With that being said, the durometer of the bushings style mount is significantly higher than the current mount. Given that the crossmember mates to the Tcase via the aluminum housing, a more rigid frame side mount could be prone to cracking the housing.... probably pulling a Halper and overthinking it but its seems worth at least considering.





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Starting to burn everything in. Cut the hoops and crossover out to bench weld, as well as the passenger frame side mount so I could access to the upper link mount. Starting under the chassis and working my way forward and will finish with the axle. Using Steel-It for painting everything. Things I have learned so far:
1. I'm not a robot welder like everyone on IG seems to be
2. Maintaining proper torch angle around a tube or circle is challenging
3. While MIG welding is "fast", I need to find some patience and not rush this stage of the build





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Not done but a good chunk of the frame plates burned in. Hoping to get this wrapped up in the next evening or two. Once the frame plates are fully welded, I will get the shock hoops back in and get the frame painted. After that the motor and trans should be going back in for the last time. No shortage of little details to figure out still.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Well everything is burned in. Some areas are more aesthetically pleasing than others but everything feels very stout. Depending on the bumper situation i may add some kickers from the front side of the hoops to the bumper to reduce the potential shock hoop flex left to right. Driver side bump can appears to have warped a bit despite having a tube in place during welding. Hoping i can track down a barrel sander down to shave some material out. I can certainly persuade it in there with a floor jack but I'm afraid it will never come out. going to wire brush mask off and acetone everything for a coat of Steel-it. Welding the axle and links will take place in between coats. Hoping to get the motor set back in before the weekend so i can start reconnecting electrical connections and figuring out a plan for routing lines for the hydraulic steering.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
You might want to look at installing a Chevy brake master before you get everything done. That’s the only way I could get my brakes to work right. I have had the 4WU front kit on my rig for 5 years now and it goes everywhere I want it to.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
You might want to look at installing a Chevy brake master before you get everything done. That’s the only way I could get my brakes to work right. I have had the 4WU front kit on my rig for 5 years now and it goes everywhere I want it to.
How much larger is that master cylinder? Were you running the stock master cylinder when you swapped to 1 tons? Currently have a 1" bore FJ80 cylinder with only about an inch between the end of the master cylinder and engine crossover. This space is primarily there to enable me to remove the master since the mounting studs are about 1/2" long.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
All Painted up and got the motor set back in. Steel It is a pretty awesome product, been very happy with the coverage. Goal is to get the transmission mated up tonight and then get the links welded up to free some space on the bench to set the axle on for disassembly and welding. Been putting a plan together for brake lines. Currently looking at running hard line from the master cylinder to frame near the orbital, soft line bundled with the hydraulic lines down to the axle, hard line to each inner C with soft line to each caliper. Considered running it on the upper link but it seems like a lot of extra length to run brake line for no added benefit.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
288 Posts
How much larger is that master cylinder? Were you running the stock master cylinder when you swapped to 1 tons? Currently have a 1" bore FJ80 cylinder with only about an inch between the end of the master cylinder and engine crossover. This space is primarily there to enable me to remove the master since the mounting studs are about 1/2" long.
Yes I started with the stock 1” bore MC, that wouldn’t work so I went with a Chevy MC and they work ok.
I was lucky when I switched over, my shock mount just cleared the Chevy MC.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Finished welding the axle over the weekend, got the brake lines bent up, studs for the loop clamps in place and got everything painted. Hoping to have the axle assembled and back on its own weight under the truck by this weekend. Then the plumbing and wiring party begins.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
after a year of living on jack stands, she is officially back on her own weight. made a new tie rod to mount in the stock location and relocated the ram. I'd say its in a significantly improved. engine wiring is all back together but still need to build a mount for my fuel tank in the bed before she can be running again. tons of miscellaneous shit to take care of but im excited to have it on the ground again.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Looks amazing.

I've been working with accutune on a set of those. I hope you didn't buy my two 14"

How much more work till its tearing up the rubber?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Looks amazing.

I've been working with accutune on a set of those. I hope you didn't buy my two 14"

How much more work till its tearing up the rubber?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Thanks. These have been on the shelf in the garage for the better part of 6 months now. I'll be out at Sand Hollow the last weekend of April for her maiden voyage.
 
61 - 80 of 92 Posts
Top