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  • Keep 10b, 30spline, locker, warn hubs

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • d60, 4.56, locker, warn hubs

    Votes: 4 16.7%
  • d60, 5.13, locker, hubs, 35 spline

    Votes: 18 75.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 1 4.2%
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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, you can see my info in my sig.

What do you think...

Keep 10 bolt, switch to 30 spline, get locker, warn hubs... d60 swap later

or

Swap to d60 now, regear to 4.56, locker

or

Swap d60 now, regear to 5.13 F & R, locker... later 35 spline w/ warn hubs...

or other suggestion?
 

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If you ultimately want to run 5.13s with a 60 and locker. Just do it. You will spend a lot more time and money in the long run doing all the other stuff and then going to a 60. I run 4.56 with 39.5s and it should be fine, so you can go with the 60/4.56 setup and save money on the re-gear in the rear end. I wouldn't put any money in the 10 bolt.
 

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5.13's. Worst case, do it in stages. Get the 60 and the gears. You can always add the 35spl later. With the size of tire you are running, it is only a matter of time that you will have the price of the 60 invested in axles and u-joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well i am planning on getting 44's. If I don't get 44s then I am giong to take some of the susp lift out (or hte body lift), and keep the 40s.

Thanks for the advice. Do you think that I should buy a d60, regear it, put locker in it, and get Warn Hubs... then install it w/o driveshaft until I can get the rear gears. Or should I wait to put it in until I get the rear gears? I don't wnat to trash the front 10bolt, because I could either sell it to offset some of the other costs, or I could use it on a SAS on my Tahoe.
 

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Rockcrawler or not, The Sawzall is your friend.:D

Ditch the body lift. Welcome to the darkside.
 

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Buy a 60 front and fix it up when you can afford it.....one day you'll get done then swap it in. Might wanna hold off on the 44's and invest the $$ into the 60 and do it right 1'st time. Then get the 44's later......you will be better off....

He'll I even put a 60 together piece by piece from 6 states....but it's done with all the right "stuff" in it....:D
 

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You have 12" of suspension lift and still need body lift?? Get the sawzall out. (actually I had better luck with a 3" cutting wheel)
 

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i prefer air nibblers myself, then go back and get anything thats double walled with the sawzall.
anyway 12 inches of susp lift is pretty excessive. even for a mudder. Alot of mudders run 6-8 inches (if that) and just hack the fenders. there is no need in the driveline problems/stiff ride/ and high center of gravity that tons of lift gives you. PLus theres nothin like the look of low and mean. AWhile back i finally took off my body lift and cut the fenders...i love it...no more linkage probs, steering shaft angles r better, and she feels much more stable. and no more of those gaps. look ont he bright side....you could get like 30 bucks for your body lift too!

jsut tryin to help...take it how ya want:flipoff2:
 

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Aquaman said:
it is my understanding that susp lift makes hte driveline angle worse... this truck has lots of susp lift - like 12" to be exact. It's for mud.
I was wanting you to explain how the body lift affects d-line angles.....As for tall lifts I had a 93 x-cab toyota with 18 in. of lift on 44's with 4 link-coil over rear with 454 w/nitrous.....see pic on my site. I ran a divorced x-case from a kaiser mounted center and clocked for d-line angles...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
if i am giong to take lift out I am going to take out susp lift, because Body lift don't hurt the drive angles.

when I say that BL's help angles, I mean that if you want to get 12" total lift, then 9+3 would be the best for the angles.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fawk it - body lift is coming out. I talked myself in to it.

I think it would be a better idea for me to go to 35 spline before I put it on the truck, because I dont' want to buy a locker twice ($550 is a lot of money). So, I will have to have patience with this, huh? :mad: :flipoff2:
 

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Dont take that body lift off. It is the only way to get good rocker panel clearance on a chevy. Take about 4" out of your suspension, it will ride better, Flex better, and lower your COG more than removing the body lift.
 
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