[Groundhawg]

To start...the rig in question is a 78 F250, leaf sprung 60 in front.

I want to get away from having the ubolt threads pointing down. However, I don't need the extra few inches removing the factory plates will give me.

I've read about using round ubolts, then drilling a hole in the webbing for the one to pass though. I know that will work fine, I just would rather not drill it if I don't have to.

So, to get to my question, instead of using two ubolts per spring, what about using four regular bolts per spring? Run the bolts through the lower plates, but have the threads pointing up and then through a standard top of the spring pack plate.

Obviously, it would work for a trail-only rig, but would it work well enough to be safe on the road? I wonder about side loading and such, when cornering.

 

[Todd W]

WMS does something similiar to this.

They weld a plate to the spring perch, then use 4 regular bolts to hold the spring plate on.

I don't see the issue with drilling the hole, and using rounded U-Bolts...?? Would be easier... and provide just as much clearance..

 

[Todd W]

Another

 

[Aggro]

To start...the rig in question is a 78 F250, leaf sprung 60 in front.

I want to get away from having the ubolt threads pointing down. However, I don't need the extra few inches removing the factory plates will give me.

I've read about using round ubolts, then drilling a hole in the webbing for the one to pass though. I know that will work fine, I just would rather not drill it if I don't have to.

So, to get to my question, instead of using two ubolts per spring, what about using four regular bolts per spring? Run the bolts through the lower plates, but have the threads pointing up and then through a standard top of the spring pack plate.

Obviously, it would work for a trail-only rig, but would it work well enough to be safe on the road? I wonder about side loading and such, when cornering.

Im my opinion, it is safe enough for a trail rig and a daily driver.
On the round ubolt thing: drilling a hole in the webbing isnt the problem- it's having to notch the bottom-most rib for the ubolt to clamp the housing that creates a significant weakness. If you build up the housing to alleviate the notch it is also (imo) a good option. I have seen notched housings break in heavier rigs..

 

[GirlfriendYJ]

i plan on doing mine toinight...

the webbing right there is about an inch thick...using 9.16 ubolts so i am gonna drill a 5/8 hole through it and use the ubolts

it should still leave enough material to keep it strong...

if you go to my pics and see the "driver side perch" folder you can see how i notched the 44...

i dont think that would even casue a problem....but if people have seen it cause a problem then i would listen to them...i am yet to see anything...

this time just drilling...should be better

 

[Todd W]

I`m gonna run the fugly long ass stock ones until I get my jeep over to a shop where it can be welded/converted to WMS style..

Or until I get my welder

I checked last night and a 3.65" ID U-Bolt wont fit down to where you drill the hole... what size u-bolt ID are you going to use ??

When I tried to push it down it bowed big time... I`m assuming you have to DRILL the hole, and then shave the sides of the housing??

Lets see what your talkinga bout Aggro...

thnx

 

[invincibletoy]

Careful that the axle tube doesn't tear.

With the perches bolted this way...
all of the axle wrap forces are now on the perch welds.

I have seen some torn/broken axle tubes....

Just a thought...

 

[UGET IT]

Re: Re: U-bolt question

Im my opinion, it is safe enough for a trail rig and a daily driver.
On the round ubolt thing: drilling a hole in the webbing isnt the problem- it's having to notch the bottom-most rib for the ubolt to clamp the housing that creates a significant weakness. If you build up the housing to alleviate the notch it is also (imo) a good option. I have seen notched housings break in heavier rigs..

Like JimJobs

 

[Two Dogs F..king]

Do it chevy style...

 

[Aggro]

Re: Re: Re: U-bolt question

Like JimJobs

His is definitely one that comes to mind!!!

 

[Todd W]

Aggro - Do you have pics of the stuff you described?

 

[Todd W]

??

 

[BadAZYj]

Wellll Shit!! I just finished my 60 swap a few weeks ago and I ground a notch for the u-bolt:emb4: Didnt seem like it would be a problem but now you guys got me worried. Anyway, Its a ford RC housing, and its in my YJ(obviously) should I be worried? How would I go about strengthening it

 

[Todd W]

Can we get some pcis


Also what are the Dimensions of the stock u-bolts for the stock Ford Bracket..

ID / Length / Thread Length

I wanna have some made..

Thnx

 

[BadAZYj]

Anyone??

 

[Todd W]

I did the drilling like everyone talked about today...

Started with a small drill bit.. went up to 1/2, then did the 5/8 hole.

 

[Todd W]

And the Rear View....

 

[Todd W]

The problem I ran into was the UBOLTS are spaced farther apart than stock..

In the stock config with the adapter plate that goes below the axle the ubolts go over the THICK cast center section (both right and left side) but now that I drilled into the housing for the inner u-bolt the outer u-bolt now goes around the TUBE instead of the thicker housing where the tube goes into..

 

[Todd W]

As you can see the U-Bolt doesn't line up..

The Red-Line is where the U-Bolt is SUPPOSED to be..

To fix this problem I will need a WIDER spring plate, and also thicker since about 1/2 will be hanging OVER to the right of the leaf springs...(plate will have nothing under it on far right for 1/2)

 

[Todd W]

And how I plan to fix the problem..


3/8 Spring Plate
5/8 Holes For U-Bolts
5/8 Center Holef or Leaf Springs *slightly ground out to fit perfect*

Spring Plate measurements will get tomorrow...