Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 163 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After seeing the other U-haul RV Hauler project, I pitched the idea to the wife and she was all for it.. I've been hauler, and trailerless for a while and been searching almost daily. As luck would have it I found an old posting in the local craigslist and called. Went for a test drive and it seemed well enough.

Was told motor had been replaced and paperwork shows engine has 30k (was originally told it had 6k) had a tranny overhall ~6k ago. and lots of other new parts in last 10k, before it was sold off. I paid $6500 and drove it home the other night... Let the fun begin :) Oh ya its the same basic 7.3 IDI, 5 speed Spicer tranny, 19.5 tires, air ride rear, etc...

So I get it home and Problem #1 It doesn't fit along side the house !! I had poured concreete prevously to park my other trucks and trailers etc. It's always been a tight turn but managable. But the 236" wheelbase and overhang on this thing has done me in..

I tore out my stacked block mini retaining wall (5 blocks high)and dug it back 24"... what fun... that was just enough to get it to fit with carefull hand signals from my wife... So as I was shoveling dirt and stuff and gazing at my new truck, I wondered why not lop the rear part off and make it more like a toterhome? I plan to as a gasket to the cab.

I like'd the RedneckVacation truck, but didn't like parking in the living area. I just don;t want mud/snow etc. inside where im sleeping etc..

So I asked the wife what she thought and she thought it be cool. Mainly due to the parking situation. But I'd probably dump a good 1000# or weight.. The construction looks simple enough with these wierd torqs head threaded nutsert thing that threads onto a smooth carage type bolt... I can cut the FRP board easy enough and I plan to reuse the corner pieces when i rewall it off..

Its definilty a cool, truck and actually runs down the road ok doing 65...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,337 Posts
:grinpimp:

After seening the other post as well i have been seriously thinking of the same... So what did it run you? I might go check out the local u-haul dealer as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i gave $6500 but it had paperwork for the engine/tranny replacments, new clutch ~5k ago... and important for me was no rust on it.. Hoods been patched/painted but it was done properly.. ALso it was local for me so i didn't have to travel.. The air ride is pretty nice.. I had been looking at various tow rig/haules for a while and even pondered building one etc.. THis is a true medium duty truck and the combination of parts on it seemed right for me.. 4 wheel disks, air ride back drops down.. 19.5" tires etc.. Working A/C, farily clean interior.. Ill be taking a lot of pics...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,383 Posts
Instead of a straight line where you plan to end the living quarters/deck, why not do an angle? You could gain some enclosed storage space that would have otherwise been wasted. Throw all the spares/tools in there on some kind of sliding bin with some cheap access doors on the outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,153 Posts
**dumb idea...... what about getting rid of the box altogether and getting a long cabover with the side door and put up against the cab??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
836 Posts
My understanding about cutting them off was that the box actually provided a large portion of the structural integrity. If you cut it off the rear end might snap off with your toys.

Why not just divide the inside so that the muck doesn't get inside the living area? If you're going to wall off a smaller area anyway, and you've managed to get it around the house, that seems like the easiest and most elegant solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,321 Posts
I think the living area would be much more valuable, especially if you have kids. I'd enlarge the overcab portion and if money weren't a huge object I'd put the kitchen in a slider, with a bathroom behind it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the various comments and input helps me to think about everything.. Im still kicking around various ideas...

originaly plan was to completly wall it off inside and add 2 doors, 1. outside. 1 to the rear.. So choping it would still be along those lines

angle chop - i did draw out a few different angled chops and they looked like ass.. plus a 90deg chop would allow me to reuse the corner molding pieces..

It will definlty have some living stuff upfront, but a slide out is probably a bit much :)

storage - the bottom 1/2 of what looks like the aluminum frame is just pretty flashing.. only the top half is structural.. I can easily add a few underside storage compartments...

strength - the floor is a cool _|-|_|-| square wave type of structure so i definilty would NOT want to cut in to the floor.. But the sides are 100% FRP ( Fiberglass Reinforced Plywood ) with some rub rails screwed in, and a light wegith alum. roof structure... Im sure the rear door way adds alot of regidity to keep the box square but i think if i use a metal wall structure with braced corners similer to the other toter i saw on here, that would keep the front box stiff... Ill do some measureing on the frame to see what it looks like etc.. I'm having trouble seeing how a plywood box could acting like a huge back brace helping to supprt the truck chassis. but if it does, then i think it defintly stays :)

outside to do more digging...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,586 Posts
Don't under estimate how much strength the walls are. The bed is a Monocoque design. The amount of strength a properly braced piece of plywood on the vertical would provide is amazing.

I agree with others that it would not be a good idea to hack off the walls. The fulcrum point of the rear axle is so far forward of where you want to put the rig I think you would snap the frame off at some point with the weight of a truck and no side walls.

If you are set on doing that then I would recommend shorten the box to your desired length then cut the rest off. Move the axle back to center the load floor of the flat bed area and build a 5 inch C Channel deck like a car trailer.

Personally if I did it I would put a divider wall with a door and make the back a bunk house once the rig is out. Doesn't take long to sweep out. Keep a roll of indoor outdoor to roll out to cover up the remaining mess.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,105 Posts
If you're gonna cut it, you might as well get a trailer. I thought the point of a box was to keep everything secure and out of the elements?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
after getting some of the parking exspansion project done, it looks like i wont be cutting anything :) It fits without to much fuss. The lockable storage and structural integrety seems to be the bigest factors.. The heat mush have been getting to me, I was silly to even conside choping it in the first place.

But its parked, yaaaay

next up is tie downs, ramps, a door and some windows...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,319 Posts
Cool !!! I would KILL for that much parking space around our place. we got a 50ft or so driveway double wide.. we have 5 cars and a trailer to keep in it.. one of the trucks dont get driven hardly so it sits on the trailer to save room. But keep up the work !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
wife and i aggreed on a med. blue color to paint over the orange.. :)

Ya parking is still limited, the chute is still only 1 wide, and i have to shuttle all the cars into the street to really do anything.. but Im definitly not complaining and make due with what i got...

oh ya. no HO to deal with and a basic 1 page covanance that says no trailer, chickens and can't like in your shed type of stuff... I still try to maintain some level of apearance. The landscaping on the side does cover thing well as long as its behind the front of the house... (The orange does stick out, that needs to go)

No worries ill be snaping tons of pics when i get started..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,157 Posts
Cool project, do what makes you happy. While the box can add some strength, you guys are kidding yourselves if you consider the MDT chassis a weak point- especially for this use. Ever hear of a GVWR??

The cab and chassis is designed to throw at a bunch of applications, not just a flimsy frame that will be good enough once the box is put on to strengthen it up. If anything, the FRP strengthens the floor. Whatever benefit the FRP may give is kinda diluted once you go from the 102" wall spread into to the chassis thats about 3' wide- make sense??

Good luck and keep us posted. I was looking at Expediter trucks again just this week:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
little progress update.... got more of the driveway done and started doing some basic PM on the truck..

Changed the oil and filter. Found a thread on dieselstop.com that mentioned substituting a 2qt. powerstroke FL1995 filter for the stock 1.? qt filter. Plus the FL1995 filters to a smaller micron. It was only a few dollers more at the parts store..

Did some oil filter homework. Here are the napa numbers which should be easily crossed to other numbers
3217 Standard
3417 Standard w/ Drain **
3617 Standard w/ Drain and Sensor bung

Of these 3 filters the one with the drain is $4 cheeper than the standard filter, and the water sensor adds $12 to the cost.. My truck simply had that wire unhooked and a 3417 type Racor filter installed.

I had to replace the Air Compressor oil pressure line. Note: A/C is Air Conditioner. The Air Compressor is oil lubed, water cooled and pumps air for the rear air bag suspension and air brakes (if this truck had them) The line was cracked and dripping a good bit of oil and apears to have been making a mess for quite some time.

Top View:


Bottom View:


I had wrongly assumed the hose was the correct length and it was not :) IMHO the hose being to short and to tight of an arc probably helped contribute to its failure.. Luckily i had requested one end to have a 90deg elbow and i use this to help reroute the hose better. I was also able to pull it away from the exhaust manifold which was also not helping the hose any..

I need to replace the rear air bags due to some weather cracking and a pinion oil seal slinging oil onto them for a very long time.. I need to replace the pionion seal. Its got a drop out pinion so it shouldn't be too hard or at least easy to drop off some where, to have it done..


Q) The axle is definitly a dana/spice axle, as i can see the <> cast into the drop out 3rd member. (its HUGE!) I can't locate any ID tag(s) would it be stamped somewhere ? If so where would i start looking..
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Next up is the inside..

I'm headed to northern to get some tie downs. I've got my eyes on some nice aluminum ramps but my make my own from steel.

I've ordered some doors and windows and some external hatch doors. I already have some small no opening windows im gonna install in the back section for light.

The doors/windows should start arriving in the next week or so..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Interior: Here's the plan...



* I will be completely sealing off the RV living area from the storage area.
* Not seen is the moms attic part over the truck cab where a full size mattrice will be.

After brainstorming of ways to most utilize the 7.5'x7.5'x8' space. I penciled out many ideas, went outside, taped it off with masking tape and most immediatly failed. With the high ceiling I kept running up short on how to best use that space.. Then it hit me.. Ill be adding a rasied floor section for ~75% of the floor. It needs to be lower in 2 areas, the entry door to minimize the climb up in. 2nd the cab passthrough i plan to eventually add.

The raised floor will give me tons of storage. As well as places to run wires/lines etc.. Also Ill have some hatch doors to allow access for chairs/tools etc. from the outside.

The table will be able to seat 2 on the bench, the cook in a chair and a 4th on a stool at the end. The table will also double as work area as needed. Also thinking the table will be able to be set to the floor to provide a sleep area for ppl to crash if needed.

I plan to build the subfloor from 2x4s w/ plywood add some insulation etc.. Eventually, I'm planning to put 2x4s flat on the wall and add insulation. run wires, etc.. and add paneling, this along with roof insulation etc..

oh ya, i figured there wasnt a need to have the pass through behind the driver as the passanger would be the only one going back/forth. etc..
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 163 Posts
Top