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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a stock drive shaft. the u-joint on the 3rd is dead.

i have tried pounding it out and i have all the retainers out of the caps.

how the hell do you get them out? <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">
 

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You have to be smarter than the U-Joint.....
No seriously, Take a close look at what you want to move,support the part you don't want to move in a vise and wail away! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i tryed that. i hit it hard with a sledge hammer and also. i used a vise and i also used some crappy penetrating lube. i let it sit for a couple of hours while i talked with the inlaws and went back to pounding. i didn't think it would be this hard?
maybe they are rusted to death? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by beasttoyota4x4:
<STRONG>i tryed that. i hit it hard with a sledge hammer and also. i used a vise and i also used some crappy penetrating lube. i let it sit for a couple of hours while i talked with the inlaws and went back to pounding. i didn't think it would be this hard?
maybe they are rusted to death? <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Just finished doing one yesterday and it was a bitch, luckly I have a 20 ton press, that is how I final got them out. Tried the vise and socket and hammer bit to no avail. Glad I have never had to change one of these mothers on the trail yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i was thinking about that too.

i was just off roading this week up near yellowstone. if that sucker died i would have become the first front wheel toy with low range. <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i tryed the blow torch for plumbing too!

dude i think i screwed!

i guess i'll have to wait until monday.

some guy said he would swap em for $10.50.

i hate paying people to work on my truck or anything else! <IMG SRC="smilies/flipoff.gif" border="0">
 

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Toy u-joints are very tight! <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> I gave up and went to the local d-shaft guy and then felt btter when HE had to torch them off when he couldn't get them to budge. Sometimes [email protected]*T happens. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by beasttoyota4x4:
<STRONG>i tryed the blow torch for plumbing too!

dude i think i screwed!

i guess i'll have to wait until monday.

some guy said he would swap em for $10.50.

i hate paying people to work on my truck or anything else! <IMG SRC="smilies/flipoff.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I don't like other people working on my rig either, BUT, when it comes to them G-D u-joints I'll pay to get it done. Even the driveshaft guy said they are a major bitch.
 

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Originally posted by beasttoyota4x4:
<STRONG>i have a stock drive shaft. the u-joint on the 3rd is dead.

i have tried pounding it out and i have all the retainers out of the caps.

how the hell do you get them out? <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I just changed out a u-joint in my rear drive shaft. I pounded on it for a while with a punch and this didn't do much. I found the best way to get the caps out was to put one end of the yoke in my vice, then pound on the yoke, not the bearing outer race. After I figured this out, it was a piece of cake.
Also the u joint is a bit tight on the drive shaft side. What have you all noticed after installing new u-joints? Did they spin freely or were they tight, somewhat hard to move by hand?
 

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be carefull if they are a real PITA. when changing mine one was so stubborn that after using my neighbors 30 ton press I split the yoke in half!!!! It sounded like small arms fire when it let go, anyway, in these types of situations heat should definately be used to ease some of the resistance. Trust me your driveshaft will thank you.
 

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Originally posted by bobby johnson:
<STRONG>I just changed out a u-joint in my rear drive shaft. I pounded on it for a while with a punch and this didn't do much. I found the best way to get the caps out was to put one end of the yoke in my vice, then pound on the yoke, not the bearing outer race. After I figured this out, it was a piece of cake.
Also the u joint is a bit tight on the drive shaft side. What have you all noticed after installing new u-joints? Did they spin freely or were they tight, somewhat hard to move by hand?</STRONG>
They should move freely, try tapping both yokes with a hammer as you wiggle it around. That should help seat them and move easier.

Tass
 

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<IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> I just did two of em on my 86, broke the f__king handle on my 8" mutha-of-a-vice!! but once i let the u-joint outsmart me, that was it, back to the 6" vice, and a little BRAINPOWER, and they squoze out nicely, refit was a cake walk too.
 

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Has anyone changed out their drivelines to something different?? I like the idea of the tiny u-bolts like on my ford... makes trail fixes much easier I would guess. 1310's????
 

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I had to ave mine torched off, the caps come off real easy once you get the cross out. Toyota used the absolute biggest joint that would fit so its REAL tight. Get a torch and save the headache
 

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All the joints that I have changed have been real easy <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> The way I have done this is to drive the joint down with the yoke on a vise. I have a tool that is H shaped to pound the joint down.
On big rigs, the "U"joint puller is a must! not on a Toy.
Danny
 

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Sometimes I use a three in one press but most of the time I just use a hammer and a vice.I have done the double cardan with a swiss army knife a hammer and a pair of needle nose pliers in a parkinglot when it was close to 100degrees.Only ujoints I ever use heat on are ones with the seal crap loaded in.They crack pretty good once in a while.

[ 08-19-2001: Message edited by: rob ]
 

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R & R U-Joints <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> , They suck! On the real tuff ones, the cold chizels, and the BFH are manidtory! I have spent close to 8 hours before removing U-Joints. Liquids don't help with rust, the only thing that does is the BFH! As far as how I champ, and what I hit, I usally cover them all! My best advice for reassmbly is to use lost of anti seize. The next time, there won't be a problem
 
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