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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody,
I'm Emanuele and this is my mog ..well something like a mog :rolleyes:
This will be a long work
I've bought this to have a point of start because it has new 16'' tyres, a winch, good new suspension and gearbox with also crawler gears


just removing parts before start working on it


It will be a complete rebuilt with a Doka cab and a m 113 engine with Speeduino EFI


Now I'm collecting parts and I need to understand more things
Usually before adding horsepower I like to have a better brake system.
I really don't like drum brakes but here I' ve no idea if a disc brake conversion should be better or not, the web is full of disc brake conversions for the 404 but most of the people says that there is not a big difference with the original drums .
I've a complete 98 Viper gts brake system and some wilwood brake discs and calipers but are all brakes that are used with really smaller tyres and lighter cars I've no idea if should be used to make a disc conversion for the 404
 

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Sweet rig!!

Yes, disc brakes are why better all around compared to drums but the bought kits are really spendy.

You could cook up your own using the Viper parts if you have access to a Lath, mill ... CNC stuff maybe ... sky's the limit then.

Keep use updated as it's verrrry quiet around here ....

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sweet rig!!

Keep use updated as it's verrrry quiet around here ....

:)
Yes it seems so

mill ,lathe classic and CNC are not a problem
the engine swap is more complex that a normal one ,the most is to have room for seats, power steering that will be electric, there is no room in my setup for an hydraulic box and pump .
also for pedals room is very limited.
So for the moment the target is to make it run ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you are right, it's a bit strange
I don't know if for truck tires measures are always done in the same way .
I've Michelin 16r20 (the 14r20, 12r20 and 10.5r20 are usually used on Unimog )
The rims are 20'' diameter, the tires are 16'' but they should be 16"x2+20"
so they really are 52''.
It's for me a strange way to measure a tire but they are marked this way
for cars a 37''x16 is just 37 tall !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you ,
The Viper brake system isn't bad but it's done for really smaller tire and faster rotation speed.
I've no experience with truck brakes,(and I've always hated drum brakes)the disc brake system for truck I've seen have 2 big caliper on each disc and the discs looks very wide and heavy, so this time should be better for me to do all the engine work ,adapter plate ,clutch,exhaust, and the EFI and understand if a brake upgrade is needed and how to do it.
Till now the tires are heavier but the m113 V8 engine is a lot lighter than the original straight six ,the aluminum radiator i will use is a fraction of the weight of the original one ,also the pedal box is incredibly heavy, and a lot of other things ,everything I'm changing come out to be also a weight savings .
The max tire normally allowed by Mercedes are 14''x20 .. 48'' and fully loaded weight is 7'500kg
When finished if the weight is under 2'800kg with 52'' tires the brake system should be in theory good enough
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
this is the differences from a 10.5''x20 and the 16''x20 ,I've no idea what rims the previous owner has used but they are perfect for the 16''x20 tires

not really interested to have a great top speed but maintain a decent speed without revving too much the engine is needed and bigger tires helps a lot .

Some measures for the engine swap



The oil pan is in the wrong place ! luckily Mercedes used the same block in many cars and the same pan bolt pattern in the previous m112 v8 and in the V6



this is a picture of the adapter plate drawing , it's very easy to do as the bolt pattern are concentric

The front engine mount is something unique and a problem in a swap but the same block was used in the SLR that has a front engine mount ,is only needed to tap the unmachined support on the engine and make a bracket to bolt on a custom front mount
 

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Discussion Starter #9
rear springs at the front and Ford explorer at the rear


'tested' without springs using a farm jack the frame torsion ,transmission movement and the tire clearance with the loading area and cabin


at lest is needed to rise the cabin and loading area another 50mm it was previously raised 100mm
with more space under the loading area is possible to fit a rear winch, battery and an alu gas fuel tank


the transmission-engine section seems to move a lot with the suspension travel the free movement of the front engine mount doesn't seems to me enough , a lot of people seems to have broken the bellhousing ,may be a different engine front mount should do better? any idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bolted on the adapter plate just to see if it's right and take some measures around the engine.


The starter motor where it seemed to be a problem fits with 2mm grinding.

the difference from my oil sump and the ML one, no more problems with the front axle during suspension travel :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the adapter plate on the bellhousing

removed the outer balancer from the flywheel
Is needed to do a spacer/adapter for the m113 crankshaft

raised the loading area, placed the fuel tank and a case

some place for an electric rear winch

on the rear pto Should be mounted an hydraulic pump, I've a lot of hydraulic parts ,at the rear when needed for some works a fork lift should be mounted,
I've also 2 hydraulic motors

is it possible to use them for 2 side winches?
 

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As in winch's mounted on the side of the truck ... sure anything is possible.

The big hiccup is how big those motors are in cc/cid as compared to your pressure pump, putting a 50cc pump to a 400cc motor will work but at the same speed as a turtle.

On a side note, you wouldn't happen to have a fairly precise protractor around would you?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
unfortunately I don't know nothing about hydraulic system.
I've a lot of hydraulic pieces I've removed from the Unimog.
I don't know for what it was used before but there was an hydraulic piston to lift something heavy at the rear to connect it to a 'multi bracket' towing system ,an hydraulic pump and a lot of valves to control this rear piston ,the 2 motors in the pictures and 8 other quick disconnect lines..
I can't find data on the pump and on the motors.
I would like to use ,a rear fork lift (or something like a fork lift) to bolt on when needed is very easy to do with the olds pieces and could be usefull to do some works, in this case if the pump is fast on not it makes no difference.
For the side winches it's also true that the only time I've used a portable manual winch on the side of a vehicle it was to recovery from a rollover and in this case is'nt possible to run an hydraulic winch
 

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Discussion Starter #14
rear winch

brake servo and battery tray

front engine mount

new oil sump

I should use the rear pto to drive the air compressor that would be used only for inflating tires and diff lock actuators as a different brake servo is used
 

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Yes, same here, hit and miss on notifications ....

That rig looks way too fun for you .. send it to me .. ha ha Awesome build, can't wait to see it done!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank You,
Interiors ,6 Renault Espace 4 seats

Electric power steering and tilting column


floor instruments and heating sistem


intake :air filter and snorkel



there are a lot of things to do but with a runnig engine I can start driving it
So i've started with wiring the speduino board , the whole electric system and fuel lines are to do
 
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