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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just posted some progress pics of the unimog axle conversion that I am getting closer to being done. Webshot Pictures(under the Unimog Axle conversion folders)

The front axle is a stock Unimog 404 axle Picwith a disc brake conversion that I got from Daniel at Killer axles .com (He is about 3 blocks from my shop and recieved good service:beer: ) I am using 4 inch superlift leafsprings in front with the ORD heavyduty greaseable shackles. I made the spring perchesPic out of solid steel on the mill.(I didn't have any square tube handy) I also made some ubolt spring plates Picout of .500 thick steel on the Waterjet. The spring perches, Ubolt plates, and Ubolts will be the same front and rear. (as will the steering components, I will be running Station's Hydraulic steering front and rear)
I will be adding Traction bars front and rear also. The front one will be similar to Don Henry's chev, and the rear will be a ladder bar with a shackle.
I waterjetted and milled some steering arms(1st pic,2nd pic) to move the Tierod(Double sided, double acting cylinder) in front of the axle, and up higher. Not High steer, but still much higher then a standard axle. I will run a bar in front of the steering for protection. Also, the Cylinder will become the steering stops now.

The rear end will be indentical to the front other then the traction bar will be different, the spring perches will be 5 inches wider, and the portal boxes will be swapped side to side for strength reasons. (The portal boxes run helical cut gears with a big bearing on the inside, and a small one on the outside. Normally the load from the gears is put on the inside bearing. When swapping the front end into the back end, the load is translated to the outside bearing. I believe some of the portal failures are due to this problem. Swapping them side to side keeps the load on the big bearing. You are essentially pulling the portals off, turning the diff around and reinstalling the portals)

I am moving the rear srings in so the width outside to outside will be 39 1/2 inches. Its about 3 inches on each side. The way I am doing this is by redoing the spring mounts front and rear. The rear I traded some work with a buddy and he made some similar to ORD's other then the spring mounts are closer to the frame. The Fronts I made a plate that will bolt up to the factory rivet holes, like the rear. I then had the same buddy finish the mounting bracket.
I most likely wont have the full travel of the steering on the rear because of the width of the rear springs. Pics of the brackets at the bottom of the page The tires may clear, but I wont be sure till I get the rear axle in, but I will still get a much smaller turning radius with the rear steer.
The transfercase I am running is a DoublerPic from ORD. I had the 203, just had to find a ferd 205. I am using the ferd version because the unimog diff is on the wrong side(instead of the right side:D) It has a 2 inch up rotation on the 205, and I also ground the shift rails Tech article on Twin sticking a 205 for use of front wheel drive, and rear wheel low. It has the slip yoke on the rear of the 205 for cost reasons.
I tried to make the whole conversion as easy, and as inexpensive as possibe, but not cheap. I stayed with leafsprings because that is what I had, I stayed with a slip yoke because I already have 2 rear driveshafts and I will only have to pay for the cost to shorten them, rather then buying 2 new ones. I have not yet had any problem with the slip yoke. I also went with some hummer wheels with magnesium runflat beadlocksPic with the 42's mounted . The wheels were only $15 a piece and the runflats were only $22.50 a piece. The total cost for the wheels and mags were only $190. Pretty close to a 1/4 of the cost of my eaton beadlocks. Plus these will hold the inner and outer bead, and they will center the tire so my head doesnt wobble off from the non centered tires. I cut the runflats off with a bandsaw so there was no chance of pinching the sidewall.

The truck should sit a couple inches taller then it did with the 8 inch lift and 39.5sPic. The axles should give about 5 inches over the Dana 60, The 4 inch springs will put me at 9 inches of lift, and the 42s should give me that extra 1 3/4 inches. I felt the extra weight of the axles and tires should give me close to the same center of gravity.

Some more plans include fabbing up another fuel tank out of aluminum to fit behind the Tool box in the bed, using the holley pickups. Adding a roll cage, probably one from Jegs. Adding line locks on all 4 corners for tighter turning. Widening the rear wheel wells. Adding a winch. I like the performance of my buddys 12,000 lbs warn, will probably get one and add the new winch rope instead of the cable. It will most likely be a multi mount winch. I am also trying to think of a way to make both the lockers to shift with one shifter, instead of having 2 cable shifted levers. Probably some type of cantilever setup.

I wanted to post this to give some tech, some progress pics, and also to get suggestions on the whole build up. I may not of explained some stuff very welll so check out the pics and stop by every little while for more pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bgreen said:
Thats gonna be sweet! If it holds up, Im going to be very interested in some 404's:)
After pulling the 404 axle all the way down and looking at the size of the axle shafts, I feel like it should be plenty strong. And after seeing Robert Bryce and Don henry run much bigger tires, I have no worries. Although, you have to take in account the POWER of the 6.2 diesel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
$$ is always a concern. But I looked at the whole swap this way.
ARB for the 60 $1300+
35 spline outers $375
14 bolt disk brakes $ 250+
Selectable locker for the 14 bolt is around $850 I believe(Because I hated how the detroit was on the street)
So thats around $2775 to take my old setup to the next level.

I sold my doubler, 60, 14 bolt, & 39.5" TSL's on 15" beadlocks for $3700
So if you add the price to upgrade, and the price I sold everything for, thats $6475
So if you add the cost of the Unimogs with the brakes and pinion conversion $4500,
plus a new doubler and 205 $1200, plus the hydraulic steering for the front $650. That comes out to $6350

But I also get a tighter turning axle because of the CV joints,Rear steering, 6 inches more ground clearance, High pinion pumpkins, and much Stronger axles.
There are some other things that I need like the spring perches, ubolt plates, steering arms, and traction bars, but I was able to make those pieces. And time is free for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the 42's mounted on the (runflatless) beadlock Hummer wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Also made some wheel covers for them. I watjetted the cover out, then just pressed some 1/4-20 stainless S.H.C.S. into 20 of the holes. The I welded some 4 tabs to the hummer wheels. Those 4 bolts are actually what hold the cover on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually made 2 sets, one set for me, and one for my brother. But they will fit on either wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got the cylinder and Orbitrol valve from Sean(Station). I made the clevis ends, cylinder clamps, mini tierods, and the steering arms. I also made the Cylinder mount/traction bar mount. Just need to make the traction bar now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I mounted the Orbitrol valve in the stock steering box location using the stock box mounting holes. Just made a plate then welded some nuts on to it. Then I just welded a plate that bolted to the orbitrol valve. I still need to move the mount a little, the rag joint wasnt made to work on an angle, so I just need to angle it up a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also almost have my fuel tank done.
I used 2 pieces of wood and clamped them together hoping it wouldnt warp to much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This pic shows where it will sit. The picture makes it look really warped, but it isnt that bad. It has 3 different locations to access the inside of the tank. The middle one will be for my sending unit. I got it from JC whitney for like $15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
What I ended up doing is using some 3/8 aluminum plate and water jetting a flange, and a top for 3 different locations. The 2 side ones I made solid. The one on the left will end up being where the filler connects. The one on the right will be the fuel pickup, and fuel return. The main reason I did the 2 on the sides was for the multi port pickups. This will let me access them without too much trouble. I put some little tabs on the bottom of the tank that have 2 fingers on them. I bent one of them up so I can put the pickup in between the 2, then bend it down so it will hold it at the bottom of the tank.
The flanges are held down with 1/4-20 bolts. I also machined a groove in the flange that is welded to the tank. I made it the same size as a 700r4 gasket, the one that goes between the adapter and the back of the trans, then used 3 of the gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I still need to add the mounting brackets, drill and tap the holes for the fuel pickup and return lines, and also weld the filler neck on. Originally I used a stock filler neck that was connected to my bedrail. As you can see in some of the pics, it now hangs down to low. What I decided to do was order a gas filler adapter from Back country binders, and I am going to machine out the main piece, then weld the adapter to it. That way its aluminum, instead of the steel the stock filler was. I think the finish will look better also. I only painted the first one, then got a little diesel on it, and then the biatch peeled.
 

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Your truck looks great..... nice engineering.... any more pics? keep up the kick ass job.... looking great..... Street legal?

Slick Rick
 
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