[Mike C2]

Not really Willys related but I figured non-hardcore Jeep wouldn't get me any answers and Hardcore would probably just get me flamed...

I bought a set of widetrack axles from an '85 CJ7 with Powertrax NoSlips and 3.73 gears installed for a good price then scored a set of virtually new but installed 4.56 gears. I'm swapping the Powertrax into my '79 CJ5 along with the 4.56, and the Model 20 I finished putting together earlier today with a set of Moser 1 piece axles.

But, I can't decipher the info on the Dana 30 pinion. I mean I can read it, just don't understand it. The gears appear to be same manufacturer looking at the stampings, but the Model 20 has 125, 2.551, .006 engraved on it. (Gear set 125 to match them, 2.551 installed depth, .006 backlash all makes sense. The Model 20 uses the long extension for the gauge calibrated to 3.375) The numbers are duplicated on the side of the ring gear.

But the Dana 30 has 133, 3.625 and the 133 is also on the ring gear. According to my T&D Machine Pinion depth instructions, the 2.50 calibrated depth is what I should be using for the 30 which means I'm looking for a number LESS than 2.5 which obviously the 3.625 is not. Also according to the T&D instructions, 3.625 is the Master Housing Depth (MHD) for a Dana 30.

The pinion still has the shims and oil slinger on it from the previous installation. It was done by a shop for a customer who only put a few miles on it before bringing it back and having smaller numeric gears installed.

What would the next step be in the installation process? My thoughts are to proceed with the install working off the ASS-umption that the depth is close. Anybody else?

 

[Mieser]

Aren't the pinion depth shims typically under the inner pinion bearing race in the housing?

I would start with whatever you had before and go from there. I think I posted some numbers in my 'Rango' thread for pinion depth when I did my front dana 30 gears.

 

[Mike C2]

I've seen it done both ways with Dana axles, and the Model 20 required it under the race because they don't make one of the OEM shims any longer.

That's a good idea. I'll put the shims that came out of the housing back under the race, put it all together and see where I am at pattern wise.

I'm a little concerned because there are a TON of shims under one of the carrier races suggesting something either in the carrier or case is a suspect. And there was less than zero pre-load on the carrier bearings when I took the 3.73 apart.

This would be easy if the numbers scribed on the pinion were in the range you expected...

 

[Mike C2]

Well, at least I figured out the goofiness with the carrier bearing shims. It's a 3.54 and down case that they fudged for the 3.73. No way it would work for the 4.56, so first step is to buy an open carrier for 3.73 and up R&P. I can work around the pinion depth thing.

I think I had it just about right with the shims that came out of the housing originally, but I kept adding more trying to "fudge" it some more.