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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any difference between a V6 A/T t-case and a V6 manual t-case?
 

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I'm pretty sure the manual t-case is a separate assembly, like the 4-banger t-case, while the auto is for sure integrated into the tranny tail. I've spent many a beer sitting under the rig trying to find a way to dual case my V6 auto. I'm still trying :(
 

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Pazuzu said:
I'm pretty sure the manual t-case is a separate assembly, like the 4-banger t-case, while the auto is for sure integrated into the tranny tail. I've spent many a beer sitting under the rig trying to find a way to dual case my V6 auto. I'm still trying :(
marlin has a setup to dual case a V6 auto. i think you have to have the A340F though. he told me he had one ready to go for my T100. he did a guy's runner, but he had to swap the A340H for an A340F.
 

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surlynkid said:

marlin has a setup to dual case a V6 auto.
Let me ammend my statement, I'm trying to dual case the V6 auto without dropping coin like that...the closest I've come is the pipedream idea of a divorced second case, and take the first case, remove all of the front wheel drive stuff, then slice it in half lengthwise, cap the opened area, and have a straight through reduction unit. The question is, are there important oil channels within the front drive area that will be destroyed? :eek:
 

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Sure it could be done,it will take a lot of work,if you have a a 340f tranny you could remove the transfercase and look at the oil passages coming to the rear of the trans and see how they are routed. Blocked or just not there and duplicate that in your a 340h,but most factory books dont have areal good pick of passages like you would need to compare,oil routes yes but an actual pic of the case area is really rare. Lots of machine to make a tail shaft housing also,unless a a340 would work....hmmmm maybe a a340 from a supra mated to a reduction unit...hmmmm
The a 340 f is really cheaper in the long run,i been thinkng of this myself for some time, but i may just go to portal axles instead to get the reduction i want .
But a 200 -1 crawl with an auto would be pretty nice too..imho.
Gary
 

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i have heard various stories with high reduction in an auto trans which i have not yet made a decision. i hear one side say that the torque converter is like a 2:1 reduction right off the top, and that high reductions with auto trans will overpower your brakes or wrap your axles as you sit still in "D". but the guy, phil johnson i think, that had marlin yank out the A340H and put in an A340F, put 2.28 and 4.7 cases in and seemed happy. with the 2.80 first in an A340F and 4.88 R&P, dual 2.28 cases gives me 71:1 which is nothing to get excited about, but with the torque converter is it equivalent to 142:1 (or something near double)? If I put 4.7 in one case, I get 146:1 which is closer to where I want to be, not not if it is really like having 292:1.
 

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I dunno how or if any of this figures into what you guys want to do, but I watched my brother in law ran Clawhammer last weekend w/ an auto and stock t-case and he didn't seem to have any problems. :D
(that's one of the steep trails where you're suppossed to have a crawler...)



I did have him install an aux. tranny cooler though just in case. He put it where the old A/C condenser was in front of the radiator and wired the stock electric a/c fan to be switched manually to keep air moving over it on the trail. :)

The only problem he had was with the t-case shifter linkage, but I'm not sure why. We just disconnected it and shifted it by crawling underneath as necessary.
 

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ErikB said:
I dunno how or if any of this figures into what you guys want to do, but I watched my brother in law ran Clawhammer last weekend w/ an auto and stock t-case and he didn't seem to have any problems. :D

The only problem he had was with the t-case shifter linkage, but I'm not sure why. We just disconnected it and shifted it by crawling underneath as necessary.
I love my V6/auto on the trail, no question. Just playing with options :D

Was it a case where he couldn't shift from inside the cockpit? I found that the first time I REALLY bashed up the stock crossmemeber, it lifted the t-case tail up about an inch, and kinda busted up that funky "G" shapped shifter assembly near the rear flange. Prevented shifting, and made a greasy mess :D. Also, with the tail up like that, under heavy throttle, the whole t-case would be torqued up more, and the flange bolts would hit part of the G assembly. A few months of that (interesting buzzing sound prevented jackrabbit starts) the u-joint took a crap, I think it was from that interference.
 

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Wicked Raciest !
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Early model Nissan 4X4 (my 85 had one), had a divorced T-case hat you could use. I think one of the Pirates used one for a long time on his rig. He had a manuel but there is no reason you could not use one behind an auto. Just takes a bit of fabraction.:D
 

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ErikB said:
I dunno how or if any of this figures into what you guys want to do, but I watched my brother in law ran Clawhammer last weekend w/ an auto and stock t-case and he didn't seem to have any problems. :D
(that's one of the steep trails where you're suppossed to have a crawler...)



I did have him install an aux. tranny cooler though just in case. He put it where the old A/C condenser was in front of the radiator and wired the stock electric a/c fan to be switched manually to keep air moving over it on the trail. :)

The only problem he had was with the t-case shifter linkage, but I'm not sure why. We just disconnected it and shifted it by crawling underneath as necessary.
did you keep the factory cooler/lines and add the aux cooler/lines in series? if you guys got away with this setup at the hammers, im gonna keep the auto in my DD/campin 4runner and just put a solid axle up front...:cool:
 

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His first shifting symptom was that it would pop out of 4-low (even prior to the jambo I think). Then it got stuck in 4-hi and he couldn't get into 4-low at all and we looked underneath and saw that the little pivot that that G-shaped linkage uses had popped out. Dunno if it was just worn out or what. Pretty sure his crossmember is OK. It hasn't been wheel that hard yet.
We didn't troubleshoot it on the trail. Just disconnected it and left it in 4-low for the rest of the trail.

Paul- not exactly sure how he plumbed it, but I know the factory cooler is still under there, strapped to the frame rail. I think the driveshaft was in the way after the SAS? In this pic the cooler lines are visible wrapped around the crossmember. We had just put it there to get it away from torch, etc. during the swap.

The aux. cooler he used was one I found in a search on 4x4wire (SUV forum?). Its a big one from Autozone.

HTH. :)

BTW, I think he sent me pics of the cooler, so I'll look.
[edit- cooler pics must be at home, PM or email if you want them and I'll post 'em when I get there]
 

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H M F
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OOP'S said:
Early model Nissan 4X4 (my 85 had one), had a divorced T-case hat you could use. I think one of the Pirates used one for a long time on his rig. He had a manuel but there is no reason you could not use one behind an auto. Just takes a bit of fabraction.:D
It's Troy Muse. I contemplated that for a while when I had my V6 case, just to see how long it would hold up. I went for Inchworm's deal on 5.1's and 4cyl case instead.
 

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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #13
Booger Weldz said:


did you keep the factory cooler/lines and add the aux cooler/lines in series? if you guys got away with this setup at the hammers, im gonna keep the auto in my DD/campin 4runner and just put a solid axle up front...:cool:

When I put the aux cooler on my '92 Runner I left the factory aux cooler in place and then I put my aftermaket cooler up front and just plumbed it inline where the trans lines exited the radiator.
 

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ErikB said:
Then it got stuck in 4-hi and he couldn't get into 4-low at all and we looked underneath and saw that the little pivot that that G-shaped linkage uses had popped out.
Yup, same with me. Drop that pivot point on a rock and it's D-E-D dead.
 

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Here's Ed's aux cooler...
 

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i've got an auxiliary cooler in the same place. i need to see if i can rig up a fan like that. is it on a thermostat or a regular on/off switch.
 

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I ran mine seperate from the stock cooler, i dont want the engine to heat the tranny up ,and i bought this sensor for my tranny and engine oil cooler fan from JC Whitney that truns the relay on which turns the fan on at 170 degrees, :D
They work right on the fitting or hoses no need to screw into the water jacket .



http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=2118&BQ=jcw2
was 16.95 a piece..
Put one on my Expedition also it has a seperate cooler for the trans also.


Damn 292:1 talk about low speed,with auto you could walk next toit and never even stall it...lol
There is no lock up convertor in 4wheel , and engine breaking in auto is close to the same as a stick as you know from driving around on any dirt ,whenyou let off the gas it noses down pretty hard, but the convertor still absorbs a lot of the shock and breaking birfs is all but impossible when you can't pop the clutch or over rev the engine to get it to move. It kinda forces you to be a better driver, well more conservative any way....
I like my Auto a lot , i just need more power ,which i am going to work on soon :eek: ....lol
Once i get all these damn kids cars straightened out...

:D :D

Gary
 

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His is manual. Not even a switch at the moment. I just made some jumpers for the relay sockets under the hood at the Jambo and he'd jumper it when he started the truck. He'll figure out something better later I guess.
 

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Man Child
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Discussion Starter #19
So, after the serious thread hijacking... :p


The t-cases are different. Can anyone tell me if the drive shaft flanges (rear) are the same? If so... anybody got one? All the junk yards want to sell me the whole t-case and the dealer wants $122 for one.


Just to add to the rest of the discussion. I have no issues with power. My V6 is a bit warmed over (DOA cams and throttle body, headers... the usual stuff) and turning my tiny little 35's the power is fantastic with my A/T. Now this is completely contrary to my '92 4Runner that was an absolute pig in the power department.

With the 5.29's it crawls really well and I'm second guessing doing a 5spd/Crawler swap.
 

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Priest,
Call the toyota parts dept back and see if the part numbers are the same would be quickest.
I have done both manuals and auto's and they look identical,but they be a slight difference . I haven't had both in one hand at the same time though sorry to say,best info i can give ya.;)
 
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