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Discussion Starter #102
thanks for posting all your work. I love build threads and this is no exception. This thing is turning out awesome!!
Thanks man!

You're getting a ton of TIG practice ... tell us more about the supercharger?
LSA off a CTS-V, ebay special. Ad says it's "low miles", which after pulling the lid off the rotors look very clean and still fully coated; ad claims it was serviced by a GM tech and has fresh oil and solid coupler upgrade (I bought a solid one just in case it doesn't though). Has a lingenfelter 2.55" quick change pulley (not sure if that's the stock size or one step down), ZL1 lid which is larger than the CTS-V so should cool better. Since I have cathedral port heads, I bought adapter plates from LSX Innovations which actually worked out since it raises the blower 1/2" which is needed to clear my valley cover. I also got block off plates for the accessory air lines I don't need, a kit to install shear pins in the crank so the pulley wont spin, and finally got some AN adapters for the intercooler lines. It came with all the sensors, which from reading the Holley should have no issue talking to.

It's not ported or anything as far as I'm aware, so only has basic tweaks. I looked at getting a ZL1 LS9 supercharger which is a larger 2.3L than the 1.9L LSA, but apparently the LSA is considerably more efficient (less heat), can rev higher to flow the same air, and has smaller rotors than the LS9 so can accelerate faster.
 

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That was my figuring getting the AHP, it had good reviews and could do AC for aluminum. I had never picked up a Tig before buying it, so figured worst case I'm out $700, which is a lot better than a name brand machine if I don't like it. I bought it through Amazon too, and the customer support reviews for AHP were good so I had some options if the machine was faulty. I haven't had a single issue with the machine (funny enough my miller has had issues but the ahp has been flawless) and I've had some friends who used to Tig weld and all certed and stuff try it and said for $700 it's a damn good deal. With that said, I fully admit I don't know what I'm doing and I've heard the torch and foot pedal suck, but I don't know any better so they seem fine to me. Ive watched hours of YouTube (welding tips and tricks is the best imo) and read lots of forums and articles. I'm a guy in a garage, and purely got it to try out Tig and learn, so I haven't taken any classes or practiced a ton and I'm very happy with my welds after a few months. The Tig is also a lot more fun to weld imo, it takes way longer and more prep obviously, but the lack of splatter, it's quiet, prettier welds, and just overall more capability plus the challenge make it a lot more enjoyable for me. It's soothing and enjoyable and I'm proud of learning all the different techniques, where as mig I thought was fun but the ease of it makes it less rewarding (though I wasn't great at mig either to be fair lol). Food for thought, I'd definitely buy this machine again in a heartbeat. All you need is argon, some tungsten, and some filler rod and you're set to go. It comes with everything from the regulator to some different cups and collets for tungsten.



Thanks man! I'm hesitantly optimistic that it might be driving in about 2 months. Starting to get near the end and more detail stuff with the chassis and drivetrain nearing completion.
I think you just made up my mind :) I've got some spare funds from my bonus check, plus the stimulus money, so I think I'll pull the trigger on one. Looks like AHP is out of stock, so they are a little cheaper right now with delivery in May.
 

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Thanks man!



LSA off a CTS-V, ebay special. Ad says it's "low miles", which after pulling the lid off the rotors look very clean and still fully coated; ad claims it was serviced by a GM tech and has fresh oil and solid coupler upgrade (I bought a solid one just in case it doesn't though). Has a lingenfelter 2.55" quick change pulley (not sure if that's the stock size or one step down), ZL1 lid which is larger than the CTS-V so should cool better. Since I have cathedral port heads, I bought adapter plates from LSX Innovations which actually worked out since it raises the blower 1/2" which is needed to clear my valley cover. I also got block off plates for the accessory air lines I don't need, a kit to install shear pins in the crank so the pulley wont spin, and finally got some AN adapters for the intercooler lines. It came with all the sensors, which from reading the Holley should have no issue talking to.

It's not ported or anything as far as I'm aware, so only has basic tweaks. I looked at getting a ZL1 LS9 supercharger which is a larger 2.3L than the 1.9L LSA, but apparently the LSA is considerably more efficient (less heat), can rev higher to flow the same air, and has smaller rotors than the LS9 so can accelerate faster.
Great call on the LSA, I believe they really are the best and easiest way to add a ton of power and keep the costs down. I have been debating on one for the DD and/or building a LQ9 for a project with one. What was the cost difference on the 1.9 vs the 2.3, do you remember?

I really like the direction you have taken this buggy, looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Great call on the LSA, I believe they really are the best and easiest way to add a ton of power and keep the costs down. I have been debating on one for the DD and/or building a LQ9 for a project with one. What was the cost difference on the 1.9 vs the 2.3, do you remember?

I really like the direction you have taken this buggy, looks great!
Thanks man! I agree, I had been looking at them for about a month and had a good idea of pricing and what would be needed to run it and eventually wanted boost, and when I saw the price of even used intakes I was like fuck that, I'll just pull the trigger a little early on the blower. The 2.3 seems more rare, I never looked explicitly for one, but I only saw one pop up and it was on LS1tech for $1000. It was just the blower, no lid or anything. The lid with sensors runs about $600, plus fuel rail and injectors so you're potentially over $2k after getting everything needed. There's consistently a guy posting a 1.9 for $3250 on ebay with fuel rails and injectors and throttle body, but in general you can get a 1.9 for $2000-$2500. I had two deals fall through, and the guy who's always selling one for $3250 was just weird talking to and said it'd take a few weeks to even pull/ship it, so I went with a different guy and paid $2900 shipped for mine.

People on forums say they've seen them for a couple hundred bucks, which I believe, but finding someone asking that little is hard. Most the ones I saw on ebay would get listed for $600 or $1000 but within a day the bid would be at $2000. Still, cheaper than almost any other power adder, lots of online support, and it being all factory parts so easy to fix made it worth it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #106 (Edited)
Got the lift installed and threw the lizard on it.





I went to try and flex it to test clearance, but the pads on the lift arms weren't gonna cut it so I made some tube adapters.





And then onto flexing it out to check clearance. This test wheel is 9" wide 4.25" back spacing.





Sway bar link may get frisky with the tire. Probably time to start mocking that up.





Not sure how far out the tire actually turns since there's no stops, but it was nearly at the limit of the knuckle at this point (obviously there'd be a spring to consider too).

I mocked up ride height a little too. The chassis level and rear up travel seem a little off, but oh well. The chassis is nearly level but the rear only seems to have 9-10" of up travel. I've changed things so many times I don't remember or care where it should be. If I need more up travel I'll just lift the ass a bit. EDIT: Realized it's because the rear axle is sitting high, and the front axle is sitting low, so with the chassis level the rear will be drooped out quite a bit more and around the 13" of up travel I was planning for.





Planning to order beadlocks in the next few days, going with Trail Ready since they've worked good on my last few rigs and the female likes them. Thinking of doing 3.5" back space to gain a little room for the sway bar and the front coilover. Not a big fan of how wide it'll be or the front scrub radius, but I don't think there's much that can be done about that at this point.
 

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What about running shorter shocks in the rear? That would help you out with the uptravel/chassis level issue. It looks a little lopsided right now and I think quickest solution that might not involve any cutting/welding would be to swap both C/O and bypass to 2in shorter versions.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
What about running shorter shocks in the rear? That would help you out with the uptravel/chassis level issue. It looks a little lopsided right now and I think quickest solution that might not involve any cutting/welding would be to swap both C/O and bypass to 2in shorter versions.
That's not a bad idea, but the top of the link mounts bumps within an inch of the fuel cell tube mounts. I think it's actually fine, just the jacks the axles are on aren't set right, the front axle is a little low in the pictures so when lifted up the rear will droop to match it, and then the rear axle is already sitting a little too high on the jack stands. Once I adjust that I think it'll set to 13" up like I was shooting for.
 
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