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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i think i need one. i have looked at some used american iron at a local machine store and they are just to big. they would take up at least 5' x 5' of floor space. i don't think i need something this heavy anyways. i would like to get new and don't want to spend $6k+. i won't be using it every day for 8 hours so i think a lighter duty import would work for me.

a couple of the ones that i have come across so far are:

jet http://www.southern-tool.com/store/JetVBS18MWVerticalMetalandWoodBandsaw.html

craftsman http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws (if you click on "larger picture" a picture comes up)

the jet has 6 speeds instead of the craftsman's 4. it is also quite a bit heavier. the craftsman has a 2 horse motor vs. the 1 horse jet. even with the free delivery of the jet it is still going to be $500 more than the craftsman is after tax. $1500 is about what i want to spend for this but i could go up to $2k if i am getting a much better machine.

is there any other brands in this price range that i should be looking at? does any one have any experience with either of these machines or know why i should or shouldn't get one?

i've been watching craigslist pretty closely looking for something similar but haven't found one yet.
 

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I don't know anything about either of them, but *usually* Craftsman likes to use the peak hp rating, where jet is more than likely using the running rating. You might want to check and see how they're both rated to compare them.
 

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At work we've got something like an Air Diesel vertical w pneumatic power feed. No input on the units you're looking at, but the air power feed is fawking sweet. Might justify looking on Craigslist a bit longer.
 

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JET machines are nice units. I have a horizontal/vertical band saw, 17" drill press, and 8" bench grinder, all from JET and they work great. Very high quality in my opinion. You can't go wrong with the JET.
 

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Don't know anything about the Jet, but I got the 18" Craftsman Pro last year. We use it daily & it has been EXCELLENT! No complaints whatsoever, other than I wish I could have the 1/8" & 3/4" blade on at the same time. Easy to change, but just slows me down when I need to do some scroll work. I've used it on everything from cardboard to 14" pipe to 3" solid square tubing to my lower links (2.25 x .50 DOM), mostly scrolling thru 1/8" - 1/2" plate.

The Craftsman blades bring the suck, tho...

I spent about $1150 delivered (used the 20% coupon with the Craftsman Club). And would certainly do it again.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws


Craftsman Professional 18 in. Wood and Metal Cutting Band Saw ®
Sears item# 00922450000 Mfr. model# 22450
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't know anything about the Jet, but I got the 18" Craftsman Pro last year. We use it daily & it has been EXCELLENT! No complaints whatsoever, other than I wish I could have the 1/8" & 3/4" blade on at the same time. Easy to change, but just slows me down when I need to do some scroll work. I've used it on everything from cardboard to 14" pipe to 3" solid square tubing to my lower links (2.25 x .50 DOM), mostly scrolling thru 1/8" - 1/2" plate.

The Craftsman blades bring the suck, tho...

I spent about $1150 delivered (used the 20% coupon with the Craftsman Club). And would certainly do it again.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws


thanks for the review.

Craftsman Professional 18 in. Wood and Metal Cutting Band Saw ®
Sears item# 00922450000 Mfr. model# 22450

i'm leaning toward this one. the price is more what i want to spend considering how much i plan on using it. i also like the fact i can go to any sears if i have a problem with it. i'm still keeping my eyes on craigslist for now untill i absolutely need one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't know anything about the Jet, but I got the 18" Craftsman Pro last year. We use it daily & it has been EXCELLENT! No complaints whatsoever, other than I wish I could have the 1/8" & 3/4" blade on at the same time. Easy to change, but just slows me down when I need to do some scroll work. I've used it on everything from cardboard to 14" pipe to 3" solid square tubing to my lower links (2.25 x .50 DOM), mostly scrolling thru 1/8" - 1/2" plate.

The Craftsman blades bring the suck, tho...

I spent about $1150 delivered (used the 20% coupon with the Craftsman Club). And would certainly do it again.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws


Craftsman Professional 18 in. Wood and Metal Cutting Band Saw ®
Sears item# 00922450000 Mfr. model# 22450

was wondering how small of radius you can scroll through in 10 gauge steel on a continuous pass?

i am about to order this one for $935. it is on sale now for $1170 ($130 off) then there is another 20% off of that. it does cost $240 for shipping.
 

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was wondering how small of radius you can scroll through in 10 gauge steel on a continuous pass?
This will depend on the width of your saw blade. Continuous is harder to achieve a smaller turn because the blade wants to (has to) follow where it's already cut, now it's fighting the guides and twisting.

A good vertical band saw is a marvel. The head tilts and cuts a 1*- 45* like the sexy. They are also about 10 large. A vertical (auto feed) is sooooooooooooooo much more useful compared to horizontal because of this. A less expensive yet high quality vertical is a "Roll-n" feeds of of gravity and a counter weight. Made in USA and new are about 3K.Downside is no head tilt.

Sniper I know that you don't "need" either of the models I mentioned, but I thought I would at least put it into the thread for others or if you win the lotto.:mr-t:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This will depend on the width of your saw blade. Continuous is harder to achieve a smaller turn because the blade wants to (has to) follow where it's already cut, now it's fighting the guides and twisting.
i just ordered the craftsman and i hope it shows up. the lady i was talking to on the phone sounded a bit confused:p


the saw uses 3/16" - 1" blades. i don't know if 3/16" blades are available for metal. if they are, what kind of radius could i expect to be able to cut with that? is 1-1/2" radius out of line in 10 gauge steel?
 

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3/16 will be the thickness of the blade. The 1" part is what limits your radius. There is a chart on our vertical which gives radius for blade width. (it might actually be labeled thickness vs width different) for our sake the width is the blade from front to back...cutting teeth opposite smooth surface = 1 inch. the 3/16 part is what is actually being removed.

When you are cutting a arc the blade width can only turn so much. It is a straight line (1 inch) passing through a curve. If your blade is only 1/2 wide it can turn in a tighter circle than 1 inch. Kind of like a SWB vehicle can usually has a tighter (smaller) turing radius than a LWB vehicle.

Understand???

You MAY want to investigate the min. width blade that can be used on that saw. Higher end saws can use a itty bitty blade with a little adjusting/changing of the blade guides, I don't know if the consumer saws would have the same amount of flexibility.

I'll look at my chart monday....:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
3/16 will be the thickness of the blade. The 1" part is what limits your radius. There is a chart on our vertical which gives radius for blade width. (it might actually be labeled thickness vs width different) for our sake the width is the blade from front to back...cutting teeth opposite smooth surface = 1 inch. the 3/16 part is what is actually being removed.

When you are cutting a arc the blade width can only turn so much. It is a straight line (1 inch) passing through a curve. If your blade is only 1/2 wide it can turn in a tighter circle than 1 inch. Kind of like a SWB vehicle can usually has a tighter (smaller) turing radius than a LWB vehicle.

Understand???

You MAY want to investigate the min. width blade that can be used on that saw. Higher end saws can use a itty bitty blade with a little adjusting/changing of the blade guides, I don't know if the consumer saws would have the same amount of flexibility.

I'll look at my chart monday....:D
it takes blades from 3/16" to 1" in width, not 3/16" x 1". i understand that a wider blade will increase the minimum radius and why that is. having never used a vert band saw on metal, i have no idea what to expect.
 

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I will post where I got the blades I like soon. Boxes are at the shop & I'm coaching football tomorrow, so it'll probably be Sunday.

Anyhow, I got some good 3/4" blades that I use for most everything & some good 1/8" blades that are EXCELLENT for scrolling, but suck big green donkey balls for cutting a straight line. Duh.:flipoff2:

It was bandsawbladesdirect or something of the sort.

I haven't tested many, but I can tell you, again, that the ones from Sears don't keep their teeth for shit. And the old rule that you want at least 3 teeth in the item being cut at once is a good one. That said, I'm running, I believe, 18 TPI on the 1/8" blade & 12-14 TPI on the 3/4" blades.

I'll get you more info soon.

And I'd say I can scroll a <1" circle with the 1/8" blade. Of course, if your cutting a circle, I could make it < 1/4" with patience.

I did this with the 3/4" blade, for example. Then TIG'd the 'entry' cut closed. That's a 7/8" bolt head in 1/2" plate. Yeah, I know this is a totally unnecessary picture, but I haven't accomplished anything on any of my build threads in weeks. :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
jesus christ, i just got my band saw yesterday and what a head ache that was. i ordered it on the 7th and had a feeling there was going to be problems. i ordered it over the phone because i needed to get a total so my bank could approve the over my daily check card limit. i called back on the 9th because i hadn't gotten an email confirmation like i was told. they said it was still pending. the next day i get an email saying that the order had been canceled. i called them back to see wtf was going on. they said they called a couple times and left messages but i didn't return the call. that is when i found out that the person taking the order entered my wrong phone number. i then find out that she entered my wrong billing address and my bank denied the charge. not only that, i also find out that she entered my wrong shipping address.

after about an hour on the phone trying to figure out what was going on, they went ahead and got my correct information again to make a new order. when i originally placed the order the machine was on sale for $1169 (reg $1299) with an additional 20% off tool sale going on. there was also a $240 shipping charge for it. when i went to replace the order, the sales were over. they have to charge me the full amount and then credit me back the difference from when it was on sale. i also had them credit me back the shipping because they fucked up my first order. they were ok with that so i placed the order. the person that took the new order said they would call me back in less than half an hour to confirm.

over an hour went by with out a call so i called them back. it turns out that there is no way to talk to the person that i had just spent over an hour talking to even though i had their name. the new person said there was no record of the new order, just the canceled order. she said she would place a new order. i informed her about the whole situation and that i was going to be EXTREMELY PISSED if i spent another hour on the phone and get no where. she went ahead and placed the order and let me know that i had to pay the full amount and i would get reimbursed the shipping cost and the sale difference. this time i immediately got an email confirmation and all seemed ok.

the next day i got a shipping confirmation but no way to track it. i called sears to find out what the deal was. they said that it had been shipped but could not give me the trucking company information because they didn't know it. i really needed it because it was going to a friends business that has a forklift. i needed to give him a delivery date to make sure some one was there to accept it. thursday i got a call from the trucking company saying it would be there the next day. it arrived on friday like they said.

i picked up the saw and put it together last night. it looks like a decent saw from what i can see. i haven't had time to put it to the test yet. i think for $1036 with tax and delivery (once i get my $604 reimbursed, i haven't seen this yet and they are telling me that it can take up to 10 days now) this is going to be a good saw. basically i got the saw for $935 plus tax with free shipping.

the moral of the story is that sears call centers are by far the worst i have ever dealt with. i would much rather call a dell call center in india than have to call sears again.

edit: i finally did get my $604 reimbursed from sears a week later.
 

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the moral of the story is that sears call centers are by far the worst i have ever dealt with. i would much rather call a dell call center in india than have to call sears again.
Absolutely. This has been my experience as well. They'll be nice and sweet to you all day long, but that's it. Rarely does anything get accomplished. I still shop w them, but you have to realize if there's a problem you're better off to just return the item (or cancel the order) and walk away.
 

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300sniper, what is your opinion on having a bandsaw now that you have had it for a while. I am contemplating buying something around the same price range and would like to know if it is all that or what?

I am tired of all the clean up from my shitty plasma cuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
300sniper, what is your opinion on having a bandsaw now that you have had it for a while. I am contemplating buying something around the same price range and would like to know if it is all that or what?

I am tired of all the clean up from my shitty plasma cuts.

i am happy with it. i have not used it a ton yet but it has done every thing i have needed it for. i don't care for how the speed change belts are set up but i don't change the speeds very often. i think any saw in that price range is going to be the same way. i still have not seen anything in that price range that compares to it.
 

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I use my bandsaw every time I head up to the shop. That combined with the belt sander are the most widely used tools I love for plate work. My only suggestion is to find as large of saw as you can. The extra throat depth comes in handy.
 

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i am happy with it. i have not used it a ton yet but it has done every thing i have needed it for. i don't care for how the speed change belts are set up but i don't change the speeds very often. i think any saw in that price range is going to be the same way. i still have not seen anything in that price range that compares to it.


Couldn't you put it on High speed and use a Router controller ? It would give you very fine speed controll and you'd never have to adjust the belts
 

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The next question would be, what can you reasonably cut with a saw this size?

Can I stack four 3/16 tabs together :D and cut a 1 1/2" radius into the end, or only two, ok one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The next question would be, what can you reasonably cut with a saw this size?

Can I stack four 3/16 tabs together :D and cut a 1 1/2" radius into the end, or only two, ok one?
with the proper blade, probably all of the above. i have not tried what you are describing yet but i don't see any reason it wouldn't.
 
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