[made in canada]

here is a couple pictures of part way through my last sas i did, ruf, 63's

 

[made in canada]

i think i saw on facespace that diamond is offering builder housings now, not sure on cost but another option.

if you are broke, id stick with the IFS and save money for a diamond and links. leaves are for trees. you will have to wait longer, but trust me it will be worth it.

a builder housing would be cool. I think the only reason i don't want to go links is it kind of intimidates me, I have read almost every thread on here in the last few years, and you guys make it seem easy, but i want to buy a house soon as possible after school, and i just really won't have the cash flow for links/coils/airbumps for a few years.

and this style ifs just plain sucks unless i spend the money and go all out with coil overs, then it will just get cut out anyway haha

 

[vegask]

Have you seen my build? Its radius armed. Was stupid simple to setup and I could of used left over jeep coils if I wanted to.

I nearly bought and flipped a fj60 axle like Booger talked about, but decided in the long run a diamond would be way better. Still really happy with my purchase.

 

[Gslander]

I keep going back and forth on this as well. I have a waggy 44 left over from a project, all my Buddy's tell me to run a yota axle since its stronger supposedly but on paper I'm not seeing it. Im in the same boat with you on access to Toyota parts, they are damn near impossible to find around here. I'm even considering keeping the ifs, rcvs, and an arb and putting the truck on 35s and calling it done. I have looked at diamonds and they are badass but stupid expensive.

 

[Booger Weldz]

I already know of two guys who bought those sleeves in the previously linked thread by am4x4 for widening a minitruck front housing. Seems like a really good bangforthebuck. ANYTHING is better than spacers, little backspacing on the wheels, etc.

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

The strong points of the toyota axle are its birfields once you upgrade them to longfields or rcvs, dropout third and the better caliper design.

Stock vs. stock, I think the D44 u-joints are slightly stronger than birfs? The dropout third is nice and easy to setup, but the gears are smaller than a 44. A 9.5 diff would fix that issue. The D44 calipers are definately cheap, but they do work just fine and are commonly available.

The D44 has a much stronger housing and is easier to cut down to whatever width you want. I like the open knuckle design better, no birfield gooop to deal with.

Its really six of one, half a dozen of the other.

Kevo

If I'm not mistaken the longfield or rcv birfs are still stronger than the D44 rcv cv axles? I don't know if thats ever been tested yet.

 

[Gslander]

I was going to say if you toss some RCVs in a 44 it may be close to longs in a mini housing.

 

[made in canada]

Thanks for all the info guys, I don't really know what one to go ahead with, but at least now I have the information I was looking for.

Its a hard call as both seem on even playing grounds but the 44 needing less fab work. Then again it would be nice to have a mini truck housing because while doing the fab work you could turn the pinion up a little bit to help u-joint angles. If I'm not mistaken, the waggy44 has the leaf spring perch forged into the casting for the pumpkin.

 

[generalee7]

If I'm not mistaken, the waggy44 has the leaf spring perch forged into the casting for the pumpkin.

If you do spring under, yes, its cast into the diff. But since you will probably do spring over, you'll weld it directly to the top of the casting which can be fun

 

[made in canada]

ahh, yeah, cool, looks like I'm picking up the 44 this week. at least it will give me something to pick away at.

well, first i gotta get my damn misfire sorted out.