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What exactly do you mean when talking about waggy springs and where to find them?

I'm just looking into going SOA, doing some research, and heard several talking about their waggy springs. ???
 

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Some people will use wagoneer springs on their SOA YJ. Because of different center pin placements, using the waggy springs will move your front axle forward a couple inches, and your rear axle backwards a couple inches, thus giving you a bit longer wheelbase. You'll obviously need to driveshafts, but from what I've HEARD, it doesnt move your front axle forwards enough that you need to worry about screwing up your steering linkage.
 

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Ok. (here's what I was wondering Rockslut...sorry The Rockslut <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> )

So I have a 44 front in my YJ that is high steer-ed, and no shackle reversal. I'm using a TJ pitman arm (same length as stock YJ, slightly less drop).

My high steer is made up of Rockstomper 1.5" rods for the tie rod and drag link, with the GM TREs (drag link attached to a ES2233L with the re-tapered stabilizer hole for the drag link mount).

It certainly appears that if I move the axle forward at all (like with the waggy 7 leaf fronts) I will definitely get bind between the drag link and tie rod.

Charly
 

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Originally posted by Charly:
<STRONG>Ok. (here's what I was wondering Rockslut...sorry The Rockslut <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> )

So I have a 44 front in my YJ that is high steer-ed, and no shackle reversal. I'm using a TJ pitman arm (same length as stock YJ, slightly less drop).

My high steer is made up of Rockstomper 1.5" rods for the tie rod and drag link, with the GM TREs (drag link attached to a ES2233L with the re-tapered stabilizer hole for the drag link mount).

It certainly appears that if I move the axle forward at all (like with the waggy 7 leaf fronts) I will definitely get bind between the drag link and tie rod.

Charly</STRONG>
move the steering box forward, I think that M.O.R.E. even sells a beefier bracket that moves it forward to work with there reversal.
 

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Well, if you run both the tie rod and drag link connected as you have stated you can run into binding situations. As you can see you run out of space. I run only the drag link above the springs and the tie rod in the stock location with Rockstomper rods and the 7/8" tie rod ends. If you did move the axle forward you could try a longer pitman arm and swapping the drag link to the back side of the tie rod. Confusing but do you see what I mean. I havent tried this but seems like it could work. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by NE-RokToy:
<STRONG>move the steering box forward, I think that M.O.R.E. even sells a beefier bracket that moves it forward to work with there reversal.</STRONG>
MORE doesn't sell a YJ mount... just a CJ one and that one doesn't move it forward. In fact it moves it back just a tad (at least it did on mine).

The old Waggy's have an offset center pin with one half of the spring being the same as YJ/CJ setup and the other half a couple inches longer (22.5/24.5). Same with the 44044's. So, put the long half with the shackles and the axle shouldn't move. Put the long side at the spring mount though and then the axle moves a couple inches. Lots of spring info here (DRM's site):
http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/spring_swap_info.htm
 

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I kept hearing people with YJS say they had used Waggy springs and the waggy pitman arm. This made no sense to me due to the fact that the Waggy arm is longer (about 1.25") than the TJ/YJ one, so... like you said, with real high steer (and single hole steering arms) it seems the only solutions are moving the box forward or run the draglink to the rear of the tierod (would this cause any other bind?).

Anyone move the box forward on the YJ? Any pics?

Thanks,

Charly
 

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I don't know about a YJ but on my CJ-7 with a 44 and hi steer I ran into this very problem when I installed M.O.R.E.'s steering box mount. As Eric said it moves the box back just a tad and when I tried to use a shorter pitman arm I ccouldn't get full steering lock to lock. M.O.R.E. suggested I move the steering box ahead by cutting out the entire crossmember and moving the whole assembly ahead. I was somewhat reluctant to do that but after looking at it for a while it really didn't seem that hard. Besides I wasn't coming up with a better idea. It worked out great, but then I also had to extend the frame horns 3" to re-mount the bumper. Don't know if this will help you on a YJ, but you didn't get any other answers and I just wanted to give you another idea to look into.
 
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