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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased the Warn FF kit with 35 spline axles for my 9" couple years ago. The problem I'm having is the rear end fluid keeps leaking from the o-rings on the lockouts. IT seems I'm not the only one with this problem & Warn denies there are any issues with the kit. I have also read that some people have cured the leaking with drive flanges. I bought the kit from Poly Performance :smokin: hoping for the cure but they leak worse now and coat my wheels with oil. Has anyone had any luck on curing this problem?
Ken

P.S. I'm running a axle seal with 1/8" drilled in the top (I thought it might relieve some pressure build-up).
 

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The warn kit, either came with an axle seal you could install to have the outer bearings as a packed bearing like your front axle, or you could omit the seal and let the diff lube take care of the bearings.

Do you have this axle "seal" installed and have packed your outer bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, the original intent was to run the seal and I packed the bearings. I thought it would be easier if I had to do a trail fix and not have to deal with the oil leaking out. I'm not sure how or why the oil was getting past the seal?????
Ken
 

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Well, If you drilled a hole in said "seal" for relief, then I would replace that seal with a non-drilled seal and you should be golden if installed properly. Remember, I am talking about a scraper seal installed inside of the new Warn hub - not the O-ring on the outside of the hub flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The seal I installed was a axle seal in the axle housing just like the stock seal. I was getting the oil leaking even with a new seal. I thought that there might be pressure building in the hub & drilled the 1/8" hole to relieve it, but that was just a guess. I'm just wondering if the the hub itself is not machined correctly.
Ken
 

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Everyone with EB's that I know that had this kit just put flanges on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did. I'm running the set from Poly Performance and it made the leaking alot worse.
 

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You have a seal in the axle tube? Remove that seal and install the spindle seal that comes with the kit (NOK AD1841). Key is to install this seal the correct direction otherwise the leak will continue. The open portion of the seal should face toward the differential when the spindle is installed (seems backwards to some). A fine grit emery cloth to polish the seal surface on the shafts doesn't hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Mark, You going to the BBQ? :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks TDW. It's been so long I don't remember if I installed that particular seal. I know the seal that I did install came in the kit but maybe I installed it backwards. Has this leaking been a problem with others or just my shitty luck :D
Ken
 

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Bronken said:
Hey Mark, You going to the BBQ? :beer:
Don't know, John Footit (crazyhose) is getting hitched, and also needs to be at the hammers in a few weeks. A bunch of us will be ripping on his EB to finsh it. If not this weekend, next weekend.
 

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I have the Warn FF kit on my rear 60 and have the SAME problem. The PP drive flanges leak and I get gear oil all over my rims/tires. I have gooped "The Right Stuff" rtv under the caps to try and stop the leak. It helps for a little bit then just starts leaking again. I think that slugs that have a backing plate the cap bolts to would seal better than having the cap bolt to the slug itself. I'm just not willing to spend the cash for ANOTHER set of slugs, so I just RTV the shit out of it a couple times a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WideJ. are you running the seals as described above by TDW?
 

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Unless your housing is perfectly straight (most are not), you will need to fix the leak at the drive flanges, not the axle seal.
 

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Yep, if your axle housing is not straight even a 1 degree bend will kill the spindle seal. this is also known as the radial seal in the warn kit it is the one inside the spindle on the diff side.
Mine stopped leaking when I had my axle housing straightend out, got rid of the radial seal, and put slugs in. Before that I had gear lube all over the damm place.
I was told then by warn that the gear lube and the grease acted like a hydraulic force. The gear lube was being forced out at the weakest point's. by the grease heating up..hell I would have tried anything at this point...with that being said I have been running this way for over 7-years now and still knockin on wood...
 

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I concurr. The housing needs to be straight for any axle seal to work properly.

I have the same issue with my D44 rear. I have noticed the rear locking hub face will actually move ever so slightly since it is attached to the splined lockout components in the hub. This small movement seems enough to allow some seapage past the o-ring. FYI, I did not have any issues with my warn drive flanges. These use a plate that the outer face bolts to and does not bolt to the inner slug. No movement and no leaky. Unfortunatly, I flat tow so hubs are easier to deal with. However I'm thinking of installing the axle seals at the pumpkin like the front axles have and hopefully fixing this issue once and for all.

Kevo
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had my housing trussed on the top & back then had new ends welded on, all done in a jig. I fully trust the shop that did the work, he is a very good friend of mine and has built alot of race cars. Although anything is possible. My trick is to slide zip lock sandwich bags (snug fig) over the hubs and then tape the bag to hold it on. Works like a charm and is easily cleaned up.

Ken
 

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i ran leaky warn drive flanges for years and finnally got tired of how crappy it looked, they never seemed to leak enough to make me worry about starving the gears or bearings but they did give the grime a nice adhesive on the wheel...i swapped to dana flanges and had no leaks and then sold the warn flanges on e-bay
 
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