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Discussion Starter #1
This is a warning to those that wheel their TJs hard. The front lower control arm mounts are really weak. Mine is not the only TJ I've seen have this problem either.

It's a lot cheaper to prevent it than fix it!!

The pictures you see are of the front axle passenger side control arm mount.







[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: TornadoTJ ]
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here are some of the repair pictures. Next up, how to make this all stronger. Unfortunately, I won't have those pictures until we complete the work!







Compare to before:

 

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<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Sure did skimp on the steel there didn't they. They should have used some 3/16" - 1/4" stock, the cheap bastards!

[ 10-31-2001: Message edited by: notcrazyjustnutz ]
 

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hehe... TJ owners that wheel HARD on the rocks don't have a stock D30. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Add a plate across the front.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The D30 has held up except for u-joints. I am aware of the shortcomings.

I know how to fix it, and as mentioned I'll post those pics when the work is done! It's pretty simple stuff.
 

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Paul, they don't use 44's either <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> hahahaha But seriously, for having a 44 in there you get it HARD!!!!!
You gotta see the Flatty now. all the tube work is done finally. Lokoing BAD ASS

Dimitri
 

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haha ha that shit dont happen on a Yj! just joking looks like you fixed that shit. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by Jeepmangled87:
<STRONG>haha ha that shit dont happen on a Yj! just joking looks like you fixed that shit. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
True, but then I've never hit a shackle in front trying to get over a rock <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Cut em off and weld on some good ones from RE, then weld a skid plate over it (which also serves to gusset it). The cam bolt system sucks anyway. Aftermarket adjustable UCAs can do the same job.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, I agree with Lucy's Driver. But the cams help me for now. I'm still trying to work out some vibration issues and they let me quickly fine tune where otherwise I'd have to pull the arms loose. When all the tuning is said and done I'm going back with something completely different, or I may leave these on for now until I swap axles.

Look at the pictures of my arms, they aren't stock <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Wait until you rip one off. Then the real fun begins!

I have been thinking about repositioning the bracketry so that it's higher on the axle than the stock brackets (basically just behind the axle tube). Of course, that would be on a new axle. Since my suspension is already pretty wacko, I figure I could do it with little problem with the arms.

Bob
 

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Are those non-articulating arms that were on it previously? If so they probably had a lot to do with the damage.

Otherwise get a new spotter and drive over/around the rocks, not into them <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I ripped the passenger front lower mount off the axle, the axle kicked back and buckled the passenger side upper mount. Replaced and gusseted the two lowers and the passnger side upper.

Won't happen if you get rid of the barrel bushing and go with cartridge joints at both ends of the arms.
 

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Stuff like that makes me glad I didn't buy a new Jeep and spent the extra cash for the 1/4 inch frame. <IMG SRC="smilies/ghost.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, they were crappy arms, if you look in the before and after you will notice that the arms have changed and they are now RE arms with real joints. They didn't have anything to do with the damage in this case though, it's hard to tell by the pictures but it was impact that did the damage.

As far as my spotter, I was in the lead or in 2nd on most of our runs, and I didn't have a spotter. Spotters are for pussies! <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> The only time I ask for a spot is so someone can tell me which way to NOT go. If I damage my Jeep, so be it, I'll fix it better so it won't happen again! I do NOT mind banging up my Jeep, and I feel it's part of the learning process. I won't get a good feel of where my wheels are and such if I simply follow someone's spotting all the way through a trail.
 

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thoes mounts look just like mine. Were you useing teraflex arms in the first pics. That is what i am using and want to go to the RE long arm. I do no what you mean about the mounts, mine are all fawked up. Also have a hell of a time keeping them tight.
 

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I have been thinking about repositioning the bracketry so that it's higher on the axle than the stock brackets (basically just behind the axle tube). Of course, that would be on a new axle. Since my suspension is already pretty wacko, I figure I could do it with little problem with the arms.

Bob[/QB][/QUOTE]


I re-drilled my lower rear CA mounts (axle)exactly 1 3/16" higher than stock. It made a noticable diff in the whole rear/torque steer thing on road.
Lower arms went from 25 deg to 20 uppers sit at 16 I think the rear end likes being both arms being much closer to the same angle.
Funny thing I did a little flex test and now the rear compresses all the way before it always seemed to kind of bind during the last inch or so.
Can't do it with the front but the rear it works nice.
Btw I had some Tera lowers so I could really turn them in you can't do this with a fixed arm unless you redrill the upper mount and even then it get's kind of tight up to cus the mount is bent over a bit to accomidate an angle.
Getting ready to do the wifes she has RE stuff so I built her some new lowers using Hiems.
 

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I saw this problem with mine, too. A couple of weeks ago, I welded some plates to all 4 lca axle mounts. I have Tera arms and have beanten on those brackets some already. I guess next up is reinforcing the rear track bar bracket at the axle end.

-Bart
 
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