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Wicked Raciest !
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Had a buddy that put it on his Dodge Maxi-Van, brand new 383 something was not right and when he went out to start it in the morning it hydroed and bent 2-3 rods and the crank. One of the check valves was not checking and water leaked into the engine. He rebuilt the engine and mounted the tank in a different spot and he loved it. Upped his MPG a couple of MPG <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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opps you double posted! loser <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> just kidding!

what is water injection? i've never heard about it. does it work on a yoda!
 

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If it is in regards to forced inducuction, I've messed with it only because I was to poor to buy an intercooler. It works great, I couldn't give a direct comparison on wich would allow you to run more boost with out detonating but if you do do it and intend on running enough boost that will rattle the motor without water be sure you don't run out. I was runnig 12 psi, and needed it to come on by 10 psi. or the bad knock would come, so I set the press switch at 6 psi. to ensure that the water would be flowing in time. Well eventually my greed for more boost got the best of a piston as I let the tank run dry one to many times. I eventually bought an intercooler and a boost retardable ignition. It does allow you to run more boost just keep an eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was refering to it more along the lines of what OOPS mentioned with the buddy's van. I'm extremely skeptical. Did your bud ever notice any increase/decrease in power? I was thinking that water injection may allow you to just run less fuel, giving better MPG and effectively lowering an engine's overall cc rating, while killing a bit of power/torque. I figure that maybe this is why people notice better improvements in v8 engines. They have a lot more torque to sacrifice. I don't buy the claims that fuel is usually used to quench the burn. If this were true then forced induction wouldn't work, would it?
 

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I have a friend who had a system that he was trying to get patented. It's been a few years ago and I don't think anything ever became of it, but if I remember correctly it used a computer from a Chevy (?) to spray water through a fuel injector nozzle onto some sort of metal-foam-mesh setup inside the air cleaner. Used a windshield washer pump and resevoir I think... It worked pretty well, or seemed to at least.

Edit: Along the lines of what OOPS is saying, it was mostly a benefit in MPG and I think he said the operating temp went down a little.

Best analogy is the difference in how your engine runs on a rainy day or cool foggy morning versus on a hot summer day.

[ 10-24-2001: Message edited by: LoknLod762 ]
 

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Wicked Raciest !
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Originally posted by Trevarthan:
<STRONG>I was refering to it more along the lines of what OOPS mentioned with the buddy's van. I'm extremely skeptical. Did your bud ever notice any increase/decrease in power? I was thinking that water injection may allow you to just run less fuel, giving better MPG and effectively lowering an engine's overall cc rating, while killing a bit of power/torque. I figure that maybe this is why people notice better improvements in v8 engines. They have a lot more torque to sacrifice. I don't buy the claims that fuel is usually used to quench the burn. If this were true then forced induction wouldn't work, would it?</STRONG>
Not any increase in power, just better MPG. That is what he was after. This Maxi van had a 383 engine and it was also the first SAS that I had ever helped do. We did it in about 1976 and it got about 8-9 MPG after the swap. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Water injection also reduces detonationand works awsome in turbo motors.(you can run more boost/advance) If anyone is interested in how to set up water injection for turbo let me know. An alcohol water mix is best and can be bought over the counter as .................. windsheild washer fluid!!! No kidding, I wouldn't recomend it if I hadn't used it myself. Also keeps the valves and intake sys. perfectly clean and a pretty blue color.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Has anyone tried this on an N/A engine recently? I'm still skeptical. I don't doubt it works great for turbos, but I just don't understand why it would increase MPG in a big-block without hurting torque.
 

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Originally posted by Trevarthan:
<STRONG> <snip>I was thinking that water injection may allow you to just run less fuel, giving better MPG and effectively lowering an engine's overall cc rating, while killing a bit of power/torque. <snip> I don't buy the claims that fuel is usually used to quench the burn. If this were true then forced induction wouldn't work, would it?</STRONG>
Water injection is used to effectively increase the detonation in forced induction (turbo blower) motors. It takes (absorbs) heat to change the water to vapor & it doesn't produce more heat. It is important to get the amount right - too much & you get moisture contamination and rust possible, too little and you get detonation and melted pieces.

There is a company in England - Aquamist or something, that has a really nice setup with an brain & very high pressure delivery.

You won't get more power on an naturally aspirated engine - you are injecting less fuel and some water - you will get less BTU's and a smaller "bang." The real advantage is on a blown motor where it will allow higher boosts, which *do* make more power.

And fuel does act to cool the chamber - check your exhaust temperatures from lean to rich mixtures.

My $.02
 

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I used an Edelbrock water injection system on a car back in the early 80's. 10.5-1 compression and required premium fuel and octane booster--with the water injection I could run regular and saved a bunch of $$$ at the pump and shop (for the octane booster). Worked great until we were racing up Highway 9 and the set up malfunctioned and started to inject too much water causing a bent rod! Rebuilt the motor and retarded the timing and lived with the reduced power output.

Jason <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Mechanically fed water injection is a disaster waiting to happen. A basic vacuum fed system if properly installed is idiot proof.......... <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I agree, but I would only use the engine's vacume to actuate another electrically driven vacume system, in a proportionally inverse manner. Or even just use the output from a tach. That way you get more water for higher rpm, not less water for higher rpm.
 

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In turbocharged applications, pressure differential is what powers the water injection so that the amount injected is proportinate to the amount of boost. In normally aspirated applications, ported vacuum would produce the same effect.

[ 10-24-2001: Message edited by: zags ]
 

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I'm gonna hook up a water mist system of some simple sort to be used to clean my pistons off....they appear to be extremely "crusty" looking in the spark plug hole with a pen light. If I do this then I will report what I find.
 

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I used the edelbrock water injection on a new '79 SR5 shortbed (20R/carbed) and was able to:

1) increase timing (better power)
2) increase milage
3) realize a cleaner engine.

Mine failed crossing the Bay Bridge one day during the morning commute and I barely was able to limp off due to the missing and loss of power from an over injection mode (Seems to me that this design was poor as it should have failed the other way (No injection). I didn't bend any rods though.

I also played with vacumn vapor/induction on a 1000 cc Morris Mnor. I used a bunch of aquarium ceramic "bubbler" filters teed into the main line from the atmosphere (goes to the bottom of the water container) the vacumn line from the engine draws above the water and pulls whatever vapor you can generate into the intake manifold. Seem like I was able to get a degree or two additional timing, but wasn't convinced it was worth the effort.
 
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