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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

I have a 93 toyota pickup standard cab short bed 2wd was originally a 5 speed which came equipped with a 7/8" bore MC. This is race car. Last time I took the car out on the strip I felt the pedal hit the floor when I was going 145mph and I almost ran the car into the sand traps at the end of the strip, but I kept pumping the pedal and got it stopped in time. Over the last few months I have been trying top resolve the brake issue. I believe the brakes that are on it should have no problem stopping the car, but there are issues.

Since the last time I ran the car I deleted the power assist and have installed a mopar style 7/8" bore MC from wilwood after already trying a 1 1/8" and one other size. I have also replaced all the rubber lines with high pressure teflon/braided stainless and deleted the load sensing proportioning valve in an attempt to make this system as simple as possible and the car has a line lock plumbed with high pressure teflon/braided stainless lines. It still felt like the travel was too far on this/ not good pedal feel.

Just a few days ago I am pumping the brakes and I feel a clunk at the bottom of my brake foot. It developed to the point that it started to happen everytime I pumped the pedal. I then hear and feel something give as well as notice my brake lights are on and my foot was now off the pedal. I take a glance and see my brake light switch got hung up on the steering column brace and got ripped apart. "Hmm this is strange." Well there was the problem. I literally crushed the brake pedal assembly when I was trying to stop the car last time at the track, which is why the pedal was hitting the floor and wasn't actually pushing on the MC.

Cliffs: After a long daunting few months of troubleshooting my brakes I find my brake pedal assembly has been crushed by the force of my leg pushing on the brake pedal.

Is the pedal assembly notoriously weak or should I try out for the new American Gladiators coming out? Has anyone tried reinforcing the stock one? Where is a good place to find a replacement? I already found one from an 84 FJ, but am not sure if it is the same. I think I am going to find a replacement and reinforce it unless I convince myself of something better.
 

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So which one is it, a "car" or a pickup:flipoff2: Yes the pedal assembly's are weak, source a new one, reinforce it and be done with it....BTW, 145mph, do I smell bullshit?
 

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Id say youve already got your answer. Go to the pnp get what you need, look to see what kind of reinforcing you can do to it throw it in and roll. I cant say Ive ever heard of anything like this happening... was it rusty? I could see that effecting it.
 

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/\ Whats up Mike, I've replaced two on my 4-Runner before I realized it needed some gussetting. I've also replaced one on a freinds 3rd gen pickup.

My rigs almost ready for the snow...it'll be a little different with those bigger squirels under the hood this year.
 

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The brackets that hold the pedal assembly crack. Get a new bracket from the dealer then renforce it. Also the firewall around the MC crack. Drill holes at the ends of the cracks and weld up then weld a piece of heavy gage steel over it and redrill.
 

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They need reinforced. Its a blast to pull out, but once its out youll see whats going on, and get some ideas on how to brace it up. Basically, start welding on some flat steel, and I think we even used some small, 3/4 tubing in the last one here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks guys you've answered my question. I was really curious if this was a freak thing or something that commonly happens and if it was, what was the common remedy for it. I am def not looking forward to yanking out the old one, but luckily for me, there is not much left of my dash :) I'll take pics once I do to show you the damage. I'll get one from toyota and brace it. Thanks for the info on the firewall too, I'll be sure to brace that. I did notice a lot of flex in the firewall.

Edit: Not rusty at all, looked like new. The truck only has 53k miles on it.

And to the guy who called BS maybe you should ask for pics or a vid before you call BS:flipoff2: I use the terms car/truck loosely with what I've got. Don't be hatin' foo:mr-t:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EJIRYx6LH4









BTW if anyone is interested in deleting their power assist, I had a few extras of those plates made which have a toyota booster firewall pattern and a mopar 2-bolt MC cylinder pattern CNC'd in 6063. Get intouch [email protected].
 

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On my old v6 assembly, I had one crack at the top of the clutch pedal. It got so bad, that I would put the pedal to the floor to put the tranny in gear, and it would still grind. I wen't to the dealer, and found out that they had three of these assemblies on the shelves at all times because it was a fairly common problem. It turned out, it was because it was the v6 version, which has a dog leg in it, and is prone to cracking. We swapped in a 4 cyl. style, and it was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you, I remember when you did your 7mge swap, a very informative thread and I also remember you posting on SF a bit back. I haven't run the truck yet since I deleted the power assist. Maybe I crushed the assembly while bleeding recently, but I doubt it as the pedal hit the floor when I was panicing to stop the truck back in April when I ran that last pass and I really don't think it was a hydraulic problem then. Either way its gotta be fixed and I'll rebleed everything and see where I stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SeaBass44 said:
there is already a _*paying *_vendor here on the bb that sells those:smokin:
I searched around and didn't see anyone that offered the toyota firewall to Mopar MC plate, I did however find some adapters that bolted from the booster to the mopar plate.

I am not a vendor or a business, I just had a few extras made because it made it worthwhile for my machine shop and it brought my price/part down and I thought it might help someone out if they were looking to do this. If I am violating any rules I'll be happy to edit my posts to remove that. I am not looking to cause any kind of a problem.
 

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I searched around and didn't see anyone that offered the toyota firewall to Mopar MC plate, I did however find some adapters that bolted from the booster to the mopar plate.

I am not a vendor or a business, I just had a few extras made because it made it worthwhile for my machine shop and it brought my price/part down and I thought it might help someone out if they were looking to do this. If I am violating any rules I'll be happy to edit my posts to remove that. I am not looking to cause any kind of a problem.
figured that so I deleted it,

it's toy to gm that are made, cheap and plentyfull gm stuff.

It's either Brian Ellinger
or his brother that sell them, can't remember:homer:

so you are pulling 145 in the 1/4 with those leafs? what's the et's? budd says he does 8's at 150 with a light rail, so are you doing 8-9's???????
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
That's right it was GM. Another reason I went with mopar was because I had a few MCs on the shelf and if i had to go aftermarket with a company like Aerospace Components or Strange, they all use the Strange mopar style MC, so running that cylinder would of been cake.

There's a video link right above the pics too. It's got 8s in it, I have more tuning and suspension work to do once I sort out these brakes.

Might as well repost the link here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EJIRYx6LH4

All that V8 sounding noise is the big tubbed, backhalved chevy pickup next to me who left on the first amber.
 

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