[jerrytoy]

I took my truck out for the first time today adn found out 2 things!
1. My truck doesnt flex!
2. I need a gear reduction of some sort soon to be crawling!

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/flex12.jpg">

 

[RobTB]

You could do rear chevy springs, A buggy spring, Revolver shackles etc for the rear. maybe some from jeep springs.I really cant help you. What do you already have done to it????????

 

[rocktoy4me]

at least you dont have IFS, that would really suck! your truck looks good. has alot of potential. let us know what you got, and we can give better sugestion sugestions suspension wise <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

as far as a crawling, i would get a lower gear for the transfer case first: 1.only effects low range, 2. dont have to buy new drive shafts 3.you can still use it later when you get dual cases

However, if you are running swampers with stock diff gears i can see where so lower gears in the diffs (5.29's)would help on the street and in the woods.

my .02 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

 

[Al Kaholick]

if you can let me know what you have now, i could give you some ideas, you may be able to gain a little for free by straightening the clamps that hold your spring pack together allowing them to faN OUT a bit, its not much, but it is free.

 

[ToyFamily]

as fer the flex. To keep it a simple mod if go get some 4" wrangler rears for the front, I spent 160 pr but you can get pro comp for 50 a piece. They flex, and are almost bolt on (just have to shave the bushings)but they are slightly wider so do a u-bolt flip at the same time and your good to go (or grind the u bolt slightly, worked for me until I go the u-bolt flip). Also if it's not already off, take off or make a removable pin for the fron axle trac bar. And when your ready for the cutting and welding I recommend going straight to the chevy rears only about 125 for the pair (junk yards are on to us). In my opinion this is the way to go, I have done the Trial and error thing with the suspension and this is a good set up for good trail and load use.If you want mre detail or more invloved mods ask. Oh and BEFORE you hit the trail add another thing to your list body protection, let me tell you, you'll thank yourself later.

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: ToyFamily ]

 

[NE-RokToy]

Also take the swaybar and throw it away, the stock toy one is so puny it doesnt help much on road. YJ springs are a good as would be taking your stock rear springs and mixing them with your lift front springs to get a really good front suspension

 

[jerrytoy]

I havw (i think ) 4 inch springs from fwpw up front and four inch block with a add a leaf in rear. The torque rod and sway bar are already gone. I want something that will require no welding and that I can find for a reasonable price. Also, you guys are saying to use chevy rears.....what year make and model? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[ToyFamily]

you say you have 4wph springs in front but it's the wrangler springs that flex, and the chevy's are 2wd 89 up, I 'm just in rocklin so if you want you can e-mail me and we can go out and I can show you how all the stuff we're talking about works.

Nick

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: ToyFamily ]

 

[desertPOS]

Originally posted by ToyFamily:
<STRONG>I recommend going straight to the chevy rears only about 125 for the pair (junk yards are on to us). [ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: ToyFamily ]</STRONG>

I got mine for $80 <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> and I know lots of others have got 'em for cheaper <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0"> , so try to bargain!!! Also, the springs you want are from a '88-98 2WD Chevy 1/2 ton, and I believe the 3 leaf packs are most desirable (that's what I got).

 

[[email protected]]

Gearing? Do 5.29 for now and then you have your choice of T-Case mods in the future. I love my 5.29's & 35's and its my DD.
Flex? Listen to ToyFamily!! I got my info from him a few weeks ago and the rear setup he recommends is bitchen!!(I'm sure the front is too, I just haven't done it yet) If you really want flex in the rear, you gotta do SOME welding! Don't be afraid of it, just do it! Its not that bad....it took me awhile to get all the stuff, but its very worth it in the end. The road ride is super soft compared to what I used to have, and offroad nothing compares to the performance w/ minimal cost. In these pics the rear isn't fully finished, just enough to work, so I expect more flex as soon as I address a few problems (The tire thats under compression hits the frame, limiting the other-sides droop = 1986-up rear axle swap coming soon. And the shackles against the frame are going to be tweaked and made to bolt down when I need them to, Chevy lowering shackles for more lift, etc...) In these pics the frontend has 3" Skyjacker Softrides and 3/4" shackle lift, not quite enough to fit the 35" good, but it works for now.

I'm working on a write-up for this, so if your intrested, go to- http://www.rockymountainextremists.com/showthread.php?s=6a a4a8319682a3ab9cb2e2d602ee2208&postid=1134&t=9413#post1134
It isn't finished yet, but will give you some ideas of whats involved. BTW, much thanks to ToyFamily for getting me pics and tips about this!!

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: the General ]

 

[Al Kaholick]

Originally posted by ToyFamily:
<STRONG>as fer the flex. To keep it a simple mod if go get some 4" wrangler rears for the front, I spent 160 pr but you can get pro comp for 50 a piece. They flex, and are almost bolt on (just have to shave the bushings)but they are slightly wider so do a u-bolt flip at the same time and your good to go (or grind the u bolt slightly, worked for me until I go the u-bolt flip). Also if it's not already off, take off or make a removable pin for the fron axle trac bar. And when your ready for the cutting and welding I recommend going straight to the chevy rears only about 125 for the pair (junk yards are on to us). In my opinion this is the way to go, I have done the Trial and error thing with the suspension and this is a good set up for good trail and load use.If you want mre detail or more invloved mods ask. Oh and BEFORE you hit the trail add another thing to your list body protection, let me tell you, you'll thank yourself later.

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: ToyFamily ]</STRONG>

exactly what i run, only i have a buggy too, anyway, im pretty sure ive got the wrangler rears, and they work great, ill get you the part # if you want it, and for the chevy spring watch the classifieds, i got mine for 20 bucks off a parting out

 

[NoBrainR]

My only reservation about the Chevy rears is they're soooo loooong. That's why I'm running Allpro fronts in the rear with a buggy leaf in progress. That truck sure is pretty, I hope you don't mind scratching it. And BODY PROTECTION is a must.

 

[TANKOMA]

Originally posted by jerrytoy:
<STRONG> I want something that will require no welding and that I can find for a reasonable price. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Dude, Why are you sooo scared of welding <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

 

[jerrytoy]

don't have one! I have access to a portable mig welder but I dont think it is heavy duty enough

 

[NoBrainR]

Huh, I do most of my mods with a Hobart Handler 120, which pugs in to any 110 outlet. It's not the machine, but the quality of the weld(er).

 

[ToyFamily]

what he said about the welder.. I have done EVERYTHING with a miller 130.
Thanks for all the feedback from you guys, glad I could help. As for the rear set up on my rig I also have a 24" mazda buggy, but the chevy's will do just fine <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> . I can't remember who posted above about the chevy springs but he's right about the years,and the number of leafs (it's been a while). As for being too long, they are but not at all a henderince. I just hit the sluice box twice this weekend with no problems of them getting in the way at all. I love them for the price, flex, and load ability. I have had the mazda packs (2 packs on each side) and I bent them in 6 mo. and I didn't load them much, now with the chevy's I wheel with two parts boxes = 250lbs in the rear, and GET IT on anything I can with no worries.

here's one of the pics General is talking about
<IMG width=452 height=292 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/forkli.jpg">

 

[[email protected]]

Originally posted by BrianR:
[QB]My only reservation about the Chevy rears is they're soooo loooong.[QB]

I see your point about them possiably being too long and getting hung up. Heres something good about the lenght, besides the flex. On ledges and such where its a straight across obstacle(Like alot of stuff in Moab), I think the leafs will hit now, before the driveshaft would. With the stock spring hanger where it sits, you would surely hit your 'shaft. My old driveshaft looks like crap due to this, so mabey its more protection to vital parts? Something to think about atleast.

 

[jerrytoy]

you guys rock! so....anyone in Sacramento up for a little welding lessions? <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

 

[Brandon]

Tons of people in sac that would help ya out - Don't rule out the mazda's though <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

 

[BigBadBob]

I got my chevys from the sacramento pick n pull for $20ea.