[road1will]

ok all you noobs, lets see how your welds are doing this week

here are mine- anything that im doing horrendously wrong? that is 1x1/4" bar stock, and was welded with a Hobart 175.

 

[spencurai]

looking pretty good. I am no expert but that will work for ya, now start on your butt welds because most of your 4X4 welds will end up that way. i.e. roll cages, suspension links, tabs on axle housings....

 

[road1will]

here are some more, on same 1/4" bar stock. ignore the one in the middle, i was on one heat setting too low.

 

[road1will]

and heres the "penetration" of the welds just posted. 1/4" is just at the limit of my machine, so i think it must be something in my technique that is causing me not to get any penetration?

 

[road1will]

just for reference, in the pic of the penetration just posted, the lower heat mark matches with the upper weld in the previous pic, and vice versa

 

[Dirk]

Spencuria , don't you mean fillet welds ( as in t and lap joints)?

 

[HandBuilt]

That's pretty good. For overhead welding... :flipoff2:

Seriously, best way to tell - put the piece in a chop saw at the joint and cut it. You'll see how deep it penetrated. keep doing butt joints , every 3 inches on a piece, and play with the amps. Then cut across the welds and have a look.

DON'T just practice flat stuff. Up, down, side, in tight spots, etc. What separates welders from rod burners is overhead/tight stuff.

BTW, the guy who taught me to weld could weld a butt joint by listening to it. Wild.

J-L

 

[Dirk]

Over head is easy , even when tig and stick welding. Vertical up is another story tho and that seperates the welders and rod burners ( that is just my .02) . 9v mig welding should sound like bacon and eggs frying on the stove. Another way to test your welding is to do a t joint , weld just one side , and then break it apart using a hammer. From that you can tell penetration from the line of fusion and if your angle needs to change. The weld should break right down the middle if you have equal penetration on both plates, you'll see what i mean once you do this.
Plus welding t and lap joints keeps you in a straight line.
I know your welder is probably rated for 5/16 , but that is with flux core wire, which burns extremely hotter than solid mig wire. I know guys who have melted the plastic lens in their welding helmet welding with flux core. Also which gas are you using? Straight CO2 will make it burn hotter , than 75/25 mix.
Oh yeah,
practice ,practice, and practice some more to strive for the perfect weld.

 

[road1will]

here we go with some more, these are T joints

1

 

[road1will]

2

 

[road1will]

3

 

[road1will]

last one

 

[four_by_nut]

What kind of "action" are you using on the gun? Are you using circular pattern? Simicircles (half moons)? Constant drag? Just curious. I'm still learning as well and don't have much to go on with what the best gun action to use is.

 

[road1will]

i was using a Z type drag, it seemed to work pretty well

 

[wanderingwillys]

Travel speed

numbers 1 and 2 look real good - but there si some serious undercutting going on in #3...

Were you hauling azz on that pass or what was different - seems to me the travel speed was way too fast..

Just my 2cts

Matt :flipoff2:

 

[Dirk]

I agree with wandering willys, the 1 and 2 aren't too bad. I use ovals (circles ) , it gives the bead a more professional look than just pulling the trigger and dragging. Another is whip and pause, this is one most people don't know about. I use it on thin material and tubing , you don't waste time and you don't put alot of heat into the material, it looks killer when done properly.
As for the best, i don't think there is one , it is just personal preference really.

 

[foley]

I agree with wandering willys, the 1 and 2 aren't too bad. I use ovals (circles ) , it gives the bead a more professional look than just pulling the trigger and dragging. Another is whip and pause, this is one most people don't know about. I use it on thin material and tubing , you don't waste time and you don't put alot of heat into the material, it looks killer when done properly.
As for the best, i don't think there is one , it is just personal preference really.

Ditto, too hot, too fast on the last one. At least by my limited MIG experience.

 

[four_by_nut]

......whip and pause.......

Can you maybe try to explain this one a little more? Sounds more like a sexual encounter.

 

[das_jeepinator]

Another way to test your welding is to do a t joint , weld just one side , and then break it apart using a hammer.

Blah if you can break your weld with a hammer its not a weld no penetration or travel speed is too fast not enough filler metal in the weld.


that said 9v keep practicing anything out of position and uncomfortable to weld will help you in the long run practice practice practice.

 

[Scoutillac]

and heres the "penetration" of the welds just posted. 1/4" is just at the limit of my machine, so i think it must be something in my technique that is causing me not to get any penetration?

That is not a pic of penetration, it is no more than the weld show through. Basicaly just heat marks from the weld on the opposite side.