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Discussion Starter #1
*sorry for the pic it's a little blurry*
let me know what you guys think and what i could do better

thanks,
 

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Nice work man, looks beautiful. The only thing I would look out for next time is to try and keep your upper leg equal to your lower leg. the side looks a little uneven, maybe its the pic, or my eyes. I do ASME code work and they would catch that with a fillet gauge. other than that, nice.
 

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Looks to be a little under cut, but can't be certain looking at the pic.
Too much heat or not enough filler??
 

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I disagree with the "undercut" statement. It dose look a little underfilled. (Maybe a difference in terminology with the others that posted) It should have a flat surface or slightly convex. It could be the angle of the pic but it dose look like unequal leg lengths. Over all you seam to have a good smooth hand for welding and the weld looks nice and smooth, no obvious defects! :smokin:

What material and filler is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It looks the be stainless, did you weld it up and then run over it again with the torch? Thats what it looks like, and that would explain why it looks to be undercut as well...
it is a high nickel rod that i was using but i didn't go over it twice, it could probably use a little more filler though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The coloration is a sign of incorrect heat, but other than that it looks awsome.
i have been told that the coloration is a sign of correct heat range.......have i been told wrong?
 

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The metallurgist who mercilessly criticizes my welds would say that the heat affected area is too large and that should have done multiple beads instead of a single big one. But it looks better than my welds :)
 

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Your technique appears to be fairly decent, as you're beads are very even, the edges are straight, no craters (ie fish eyes, as seem to be the trend with welds i see on this board), but the start/stop crater is a little on the excessive side, but a quick hit with a grinder will fix that anyway. The only real issue i see is that the weld size and contour are not correct, you always want to keep the contour slighty convex as posted above, The weld size, well can't be completly sure as don't know what the base metal thickness is, as the weld should be at least as thick as the thinest part being joined, plus about 10 % for reinforcement. But the unequal leg size is the biggest issue and as said above it would be caught with a fillet guage, but tighten up that bottem leg while still using the same amount of filler and heat, this should also give you the proper shape as well.

The appearence of undercut looks to be a result of the bead shape fooling the eyes.

The colour can be an indication of the proper heat, but it depends on the type of metals being used. And while i'm thinking of it what the reason for the higher nickle rod?
 

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Nice work, I agree that it needs a little more filler material. Looks like plenty of heat was used, so I wouldn't hesitate to rock those welds as is.
 

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I wanna give you credit for not starting and stopping on the corners. Good job. The even leg will come with practice. Good hand, keep it up.

:grinpimp:
 

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Going to guess it is 1.5x3x.120 wall and if it is, it doesn't seem right that the color should travel that far from the weld, maybe too slow. The slow travel might explain the good shielding and lack of color at the weld zone but color outside the weld zone. Can't see from the picture if you walked the cup or if you freehanded it. If it is freehand then good job.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
the material is 1x2 .120 i might be moving a little slow causing the haz to be so big, but the shielding is probably because of the gas lens i'm using

i've heard the term "walking the cup" before but don't really understand the meaning as no one has ever really shown me, i pretty much have got this far on my own.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The appearence of undercut looks to be a result of the bead shape fooling the eyes.

The colour can be an indication of the proper heat, but it depends on the type of metals being used. And while i'm thinking of it what the reason for the higher nickle rod?
it is'nt under cut i pretty sure of that

the high nickel rod i bought so i can shave my rear housing and i was giving it a try
 

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As an average welder, I woulds say that is just fine. I would listen very closly though, there are some very experianced welders on the board.
 

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you will never break that weld for what you will use it for. as for NASCAR, NHRA, or even NASA you may want it critiqued.
 
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