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i was wondering if anybody has had any luck welding the rear diff instead of a spool or locker my brother did it on a scout and its worked fine,a little chirpy on tight turns but other than that it has worked great
 

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why would you want to weld the rear diff if it already had a spool or locker in it? might as well make a few $$ selling the spool/locker and welding it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i dont have a spool or locker i was wondering if anyone has had any luck welding their rear diff
 

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Weld the spider gears to each other then to the carrier also. I broke all the welds on one were the spiders were welded to each other. But never when they were welded to the carrier also. I was running 38's, dual cases, and 5.29's. They held up to 2wd burnouts on the street :D
 

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do it, its great and cheap. as long as your not super hard core, it should hold up just fine. It'll eat rear tires though.... :(
 

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I'm about to weld my diffs and I was wondering what level on a Lincoln 210 Welder you'd guys recommend considering how thick the gear metal and carrier is? Crank it all the way up and let 'er rip, or would that be too hot and warp it? Thanks,

Chris
 

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Crank it up, burn it in, let it cool slowly. I tossed mine in a bucket of sand
k, thanks man...I appreciate it. Would you recommend only burning one section at a time, let it fully cool, then do the next one, etc or just have at it?

Chris
 

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I welded mine 4 years ago. Works great. Its on my dd. Turning usnt great and it eats tires but oh well
 

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I have several welded rigs, and they do great.

The main thing I would recommend is cleaning the crap out of it before you weld, as it could get pretty porous if you have it still coated in oil. Don't use brake cleaner though, as it can cause Phosgene gas if there is any left over. Engine Cleaner, a good scrubbing, rinse with lots of water and then let it sit in the sun to dry.

I think we did a sub-par job with cleaning the first one I ever did (back in my Samurai days) and most of the weld just broke apart in it and came out and I was no longer locked...





I didn't do the welding BTW. This was before I owned one and let a friend who had one do it. Not sure if he didn't burn it in enough or what, but its was pretty securely welded in with bits of metal to fill in some gaps to boot.

Seems to me that burning it in fast and hot is the way to go. Doing it slow will just build up the heat and spread it around more, but doing it fast and hot will keep it concentrated and the heat can slowly dissipate through the rest of the carrier and gears. Letting it slowly cool will help with warp, as others have said.

Good luck, you'll be amazed at what you can get up with a locked axle compared to an open one.
 
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