hey im thinking about buying a front axle with welded 529's. i was wondering about the whole welded thing will it make driving it daily a bitch?? will it mess up the turning??? or will it not do anything becasuse its not in 4wd?? i dont know thats why im asking yall thanks for the help
welded gears pros and cons
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As long as you have manual hubs and they are unlocked, it won't do anything. When the hubs are locked, both sides will turn at the same speed. Off road, it can be a little harder to turn at slower speeds, but most lockers act like this anyhow. The only problem will be if the welds are junk and they break, this can cause some problems. I wouldn't be scared of it, especially since it's in the front.
Welded front = broken parts. Even Bobby Long, the expert on Toyota Birf's, says not to run a welded front even with his parts.
If it's in the rear, not that big of a deal. It's going to push in the turns some, tires will wear faster due to scrub, and it's possible to break loose in the rear in the corners if the pavement is wet. Wouldn't be my first choice for a DD, but at least it's predicable (vs. loading and unloading of a locker).
If it's in the rear, not that big of a deal. It's going to push in the turns some, tires will wear faster due to scrub, and it's possible to break loose in the rear in the corners if the pavement is wet. Wouldn't be my first choice for a DD, but at least it's predicable (vs. loading and unloading of a locker).
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If it's a good deal, buy it.
A new 3rd is only $50-100. You could swap the 5.29's over to an open carrier, stuff that in the front, and be good to go. As long as you've got it open, I'd recommend at least an Aussie locker for a 4cyl carrier or a Lockrite for a v6 carrier.
If this were a semi-DD or trail rig, I'd recommend swapping thirds and run the welded 3rd out back. You won't enjoy welded for a DD...and lunchbox lockers are very affordable.
Used e-lockers aren't bad, but that might end up being a lot of $$ if you go buy v6 gears for your new elocker, and your previous setup was all 4cyl.
A new 3rd is only $50-100. You could swap the 5.29's over to an open carrier, stuff that in the front, and be good to go. As long as you've got it open, I'd recommend at least an Aussie locker for a 4cyl carrier or a Lockrite for a v6 carrier.
If this were a semi-DD or trail rig, I'd recommend swapping thirds and run the welded 3rd out back. You won't enjoy welded for a DD...and lunchbox lockers are very affordable.
Used e-lockers aren't bad, but that might end up being a lot of $$ if you go buy v6 gears for your new elocker, and your previous setup was all 4cyl.
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With this logic what is the difference between welding a front carrier and running a spool? Or even an ARB. I could see if there was a difference in spline engagement or something or if you are referring to running in 4wd at high speeds. What exactly is the reasoning behind his suggestion?
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Because he's seen broken parts!!!
If you're completely bound up with an ARB (or e-locker), you can disengage the locker and relieve the stress.
If you're completely bound up with a Lockrite, it's probable the locker will pop before the Longs.
If you're completely bound up with a front spool or welded spiders, :nuke: Bobby sees a pile of parts show up via UPS, then warns the rest of us not to do it.
If you're completely bound up with an ARB (or e-locker), you can disengage the locker and relieve the stress.
If you're completely bound up with a Lockrite, it's probable the locker will pop before the Longs.
If you're completely bound up with a front spool or welded spiders, :nuke: Bobby sees a pile of parts show up via UPS, then warns the rest of us not to do it.
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Both spools and welded tranfer the constant stress all the time. ARB only when engaged. You don't drive with ARB locked all the time. That's the whole reason for a selectable locker. Use it when you need it and steer easy when you don't.:flipoff2:
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I don't like putting all that heat into something that has been heat treated. I ran one at the Hammers back in April, (as my HP/ARB was dead), and I broke a couple teeth. I can't say that was the whole reason, but it can't be good for the gears.
YRMV
YRMV
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take the gear off before welding:flipoff2:
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I'm welded front and rear, but only running 35's. I didn't hear about Bobby not wanting to warranty shafts w/ welded fronts until I had already had them in for a while (not that I blame him at all). But if I step up to a 37" tire, I'll run selectable. I think I can get away w/ welded and 35's as long as I don't really bind it up hard.
As far as drivability, I've got ram assist and with the hubs locked in, it isn't hard to turn the wheel, but the truck doesn't turn as well either. It's just a trade off for being cheap. When unlocked, you'll never notice. So my advice is if you accept it being hard on shafts when the hubs are locked and you don't have the $ to buy a selectable locker, it'll work. If you can afford a new locker I would recommend that.
As far as drivability, I've got ram assist and with the hubs locked in, it isn't hard to turn the wheel, but the truck doesn't turn as well either. It's just a trade off for being cheap. When unlocked, you'll never notice. So my advice is if you accept it being hard on shafts when the hubs are locked and you don't have the $ to buy a selectable locker, it'll work. If you can afford a new locker I would recommend that.
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Again the second part of my question was are you referring to having a welded front using the 4wd on the street? Or simply under off road conditions.
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4wd on pavement is silly. Boom pop bang. :nuke:. Without a center diff in the t-case, it's going to bind very hard. Backed onto the paved road in front of my house to turn around once in 4wd. Bound so hard it stalled the motor with a spool rear and aussie front. Yes the offroad stress's are great also. And if you can run at high speeds in 4wd, Why no switch to 2wd?
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I'm with 2manyprojects. If you can go high speeds and your rig is getting traction, you don't need 4wd.
If it's slippery, you aren't going to bind up in 4wd.....but driveability with a welded front will be significantly less than what you would expect from a highway-driven rig.
If it's slippery, you aren't going to bind up in 4wd.....but driveability with a welded front will be significantly less than what you would expect from a highway-driven rig.
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I run 36 iroks on my rig with 5.29's and ARB's and of course longfields. I almost always leave my front locker on just because. I can't see a difference between having the locker on all the time in off road conditions and turning it off and on once in a while. If bobbies axles are built to withstand 40 inch plus tires fully locked and what not what is the difference between having a spooled or welded from off road than an ARB. I have had no problems with my longfields whatsoever and I have had them in for 3 years. Granted I did have to get my old set warrantied after 2 and a half years of hard wheeling but they arent nearly as strong as the new design.
What I'm saying is I don't see a difference in normal off road use with a spool, welded front or ARB. I can see that maybe the parts would fatigue quicker with high speed uses and stresses but with the average rock crawler the three are all locked all the time, if desired with an ARB, and all put the same stresses on the same things.
What I'm saying is I don't see a difference in normal off road use with a spool, welded front or ARB. I can see that maybe the parts would fatigue quicker with high speed uses and stresses but with the average rock crawler the three are all locked all the time, if desired with an ARB, and all put the same stresses on the same things.
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I don't think the average rockcrawlers IS locked all the time. The people I know don't wheel that way. It's like running the motor at 5000 rpm for a long time. Sure it will most likely hold up, But at 2500 it will take twice the time and add who know how much life to the motor.
Locked diffs at higher speed have the extra force of momentum. Start turning a corner at 60 and the binding is trying to slow a 4000 lb vehical from 60. A locked front end in a turn would want to rip itself apart. Not only trying to twist the shafts, but the side load on the wheels, bearings and steering when you force them to turn and they want to go straight.
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my 85 has been welded front and rear for 6 years--- 5:29's with 36"'s
Con/TDS/Hammers---- stock axles and birfs--- (can't afford anything else)
have run sand/snow/mud/rocks--- flat tow everywhere i don't drive it--- and daily driver /street legal-- basicly STOCK
how big is your right foot ?????
Con/TDS/Hammers---- stock axles and birfs--- (can't afford anything else)
have run sand/snow/mud/rocks--- flat tow everywhere i don't drive it--- and daily driver /street legal-- basicly STOCK
how big is your right foot ?????
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So are you implying your average?:laughing:
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I run a ARB front an dnever turn it on unless I need it, if I had a ARB in the rear I would do the same thing. Try wheeling with it off and discover how much more fun wheeling can be:smokin:.
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