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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
welded IFS diff on daily driver

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I know it's a cross post. Figured I would get more educated response here.
I searched.
I read.
I'm just more confused.

What it is: 94 4Runner, 5 spd, 22RE, V6 rear, 4.88 gears both ends, ADD replaced by manual hubs, daily driver.
What I want to do with it: Continue to daily drive and the occasional wheeling to remote campsites and lakes. Snow runs and most anything short of the Rubicon, Hammers, Fordyce, etc. Sometimes I will have my 3 year old daughter with me, so I'm not looking for the most hardcore, but rather the most advantage and reliability while mildly wheeling.
No money in the budget for the SAS and leaf rear, dual cases or lockers. That won't happen for at least 3 yrs.
The question is would it be of any benefit to weld the IFS front to gain any advantage (considering what I'm doing with it right now), or leave it alone?
I will be going prepared with CV's and related parts and tools, but reading the responses in search was about 50/50 to welding as opposed to open.
Many differing opinions and I can't decide. Any new opinions?
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94 4Runner Tired and beat
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I have manual hubs and don't mind getting out and turning them when needed.
what are you gonna do with your 3 year old while your truck is up on the highlift and your replacing broken bits up front in the snow? that would suck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what are you gonna do with your 3 year old while your truck is up on the highlift and your replacing broken bits up front in the snow? that would suck...

I realize that, and is why I want to know of any advantage to the mod. vs. leaving it alone. When I have her with me is not the time I will be doing anything to risk her welfare. However, I want the best advantage given what I have to work with. I want to do more in terms of risk when she is not with me, and tone it down when she is with me. In other words, am I comprimising everyday DD reliability and mild trails while welded, to gain the occasional advantage of harder risks when I'm with others and she is safely at home?
 

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how do you plan on getting to the snowy trail with a welded front? snow/ice + welded front = ditch/tree/cliff
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
how do you plan on getting to the snowy trail with a welded front? snow/ice + welded front = ditch/tree/cliff
This is the basis for my original question. I sirched and found about half the people said they did it with minor gripes and half said don't do it at all.

I want to wheel as hard as this thing will wheel while in the company of other rigs, but I do need to drive it daily.
I want to take my daughter to places I can't take the 2wd Tundra within reason.
I want to know if welding the front has any advantage to "stepping it up" with my bud's when I want to, verses comprimising DD ability and the added risk of breakage while being mellow with my daughter.
I guess it's hard to explain what I want, maybe I'm talking out my ass.
I want 2 totally different things in 1 package on the cheap.
I thought this might be a way to fill the bill on both while I work through my current situation.
 

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Why not weld the rear? I know because it's a daily driver. I know some up here who run lincoln lockers front and rear. If you do weld the front you can run with one hub locked and one open untill you need both front wheels.
 

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Don't do it! honestly a welded diff is no answer save your money to go towards a Aussie locker up front you will still need to tale CV's (with a bit of jandal (or pedal) they still break).

Welded front IFS is not a good plan, hell a welded front solid is not a good plan! Learn to drive within the limits of the 4x4 you may be supprised what you can drive with a bit more thinking.
 

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Leave that thing alone and spend more time working and less time welding so as to afford a "REAL" locker... or:idea: even better a "SAS"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Why not weld the rear? I know because it's a daily driver. I know some up here who run lincoln lockers front and rear. If you do weld the front you can run with one hub locked and one open untill you need both front wheels.
From what I know and have been reading welded or spooled rear on a DD sucks for obvious reasons. I'm no stranger to a spooled\posi rear on the street ( street rod background), I'm only considering welding the front. I have manual hubs. The front diff is essentially along for the ride in an unlocked DD situation the way I'm configured and I understand it. I read others comments that a welded IFS front won't turn on the street. I need to know more about the truth to this.
If I'm unlocked in 2wd what effect does the front IFS diff have welded v.s. non-welded in a DD application?
What greater risk is present in a welded IFS front in offroad conditions v.s. open?
I guess these are the main questions.
 

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1) Weld the rear. If you don't like it, a replacement 3rd will only cost you 50 to 100 bucks assuming your gears are still 4.10 and you can sell the welded 3rd for about what you pay for the replacement.

2) Aussie in the rear is only about 300, almost transparent on the street unless you're in snow and ice. Takes some getting used to in the snow.

3) E-locker, shop around... 3 to 500 and a bit of your time to mod your housing. Same deal as the open diff you have right now until you flick the switch. Snow driving is unaffected unless it's locked. This is the route I would take.

Don't weld the 7 1/2" front.
 

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I have a 93 extra cab with a weilded front diff not by choice. When i got the truck it had a junk front end with a weild front that need to be installed. I did drive the truck for awhile on the road even with on hub locked in. The truck drove the same with either one hub locked or both unlocked. If you dont have to use 4wd for snow than you wouldnt have a problem. When i do my sas i will not run a weild front. I like have both wheel turn in the front but its a pain to turn.
 

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From what I know and have been reading welded or spooled rear on a DD sucks for obvious reasons. I'm no stranger to a spooled\posi rear on the street ( street rod background), I'm only considering welding the front. I have manual hubs. The front diff is essentially along for the ride in an unlocked DD situation the way I'm configured and I understand it. I read others comments that a welded IFS front won't turn on the street. I need to know more about the truth to this.
If I'm unlocked in 2wd what effect does the front IFS diff have welded v.s. non-welded in a DD application?
What greater risk is present in a welded IFS front in offroad conditions v.s. open?
I guess these are the main questions.
"I have manual hubs. The front diff is essentially along for the ride in an unlocked DD situation the way I'm configured and I understand it. I read others comments that a welded IFS front won't turn on the street. I need to know more about the truth to this."
With the hubs open you won't feel any difference. With one hub locked (for off road only) you have one wheel pulling up front but it's easier to turn because the front wheels can turn at different speeds.
Like muddy_hilux said you can have alot of fun with open diffs, just learn your limits.
 

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locker rear/open front. Dont upset the IFS. If you treat the IFS nicely it will hold up. I ran open front IFS t-bars cranked to shaved bumpstops, 33" tsls, manual hubs, and never broke. When I did my SAS I was very happy that I didnt put a dime into the IFS. Not only was I able to save my dimes for the sas, but I didnt break and wear parts, and I became a better driver.

Besides A rear locker is a MAJOR advantage, a front is nice but not a huge increase over just the rear, especially for what you are using it for.
 

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Any kind of locker, let alone welded in the front is gonna lead to carnage very quick in the ifs. Cvs and stub shafts. The only people have seen make it last are very good technical drivers or they are very easy on it, and they have arbs that are off most the time.

Ive been thinking about putting a turning break in the front of mine, to lock the wheel thats in the air, and send the power to the one on the ground. It would be fairly cheap and somthing I could still use after an sas.
 

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I read others comments that a welded IFS front won't turn on the street. I need to know more about the truth to this.
If I'm unlocked in 2wd what effect does the front IFS diff have welded v.s. non-welded in a DD application?
What greater risk is present in a welded IFS front in offroad conditions v.s. open?
I guess these are the main questions.
1. If you're unlocked you won't notice the front being welded - in 2wd or 4wd. There's nothing putting the power from the shafts to the ground so they can spin however they want.

2. You're a lot more likely to break shafts, hubs, IFS parts. You're not going to turn well. Toyota's already turn like battleships, so it's something to consider. You can no longer run 4wd on the street. If it's snowing you better keep it in 2wd.

I would seriously recommend saving up for an Aussie and throwing that in either the front or rear. I would not weld the front diff on anything I would ever want to be in 4wd on a public road.
 

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Yes welded fronts an spools in rigs is a good idea. I have been telling people for ever that is the worest thing you can do. So i give up, go ahead and break everything up front good idea.
 

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Yes welded fronts an spools in rigs is a good idea. I have been telling people for ever that is the worest thing you can do. So i give up, go ahead and break everything up front good idea.
For what you do, it is not needed. Do something in the rear and leave the front alone.

A welded front 7.5" is going to hurt you more than it helps.
 

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IMHO you are mixing up the concept of
"DD with a small child"
and
"hard core rig"

The old adage is - 4x4 gets you 50' farther but just as stuck.

You can do ALOT of mild wheeling with open diffs and IFS.
Save yer $$ and wheel.

The most important item is not lockers but the spacer that holds the steering wheel.
 
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