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Drill a hole through the tube and weld in a tube with the ID of the bolt for the "D" Ring. Or weld a tube on top and reinforce it with flat strap the width of the main tube going over the top of the cross tube and back to the main tube
 

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we have been using them on our stuff for 5-6 years not and have never had a problem. There is not need to weld straps over the top of the part back to the tube like mentioned above. The parts is cnc machined from 1 inch thick cold roll steel. The bottom the the part is ball milled so that it will sit on the tube straight. The sides have a weld prep pre machined into them. If you weld the part on correctly you should have no problem.

We have them in stock ready to ship. Drop me a PM if you have any questions. I have personally welded on MANY of them over the years.

-Dan
 

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welding 1'' thick cold rolled onto 1/8'' thick cold formed tubing...might wanna have a good welder do it, or youll have little penetration on the 1'', id seriously consider heating up the thicker material if you have any doubts in your welding skills
 

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I was concerned about ripping as well, so on the last one I did I cut the tube in half and sleeved in an 8" piece of 1.5" .250 and plug welded it in 4 spots, and then welded the d ring to the 1.75" .120 like normal. I would think it will hold.
 

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Another option for mounting D-Rings on a chassis....

A couple of plug welds and one surface weld. These suckas aren't going anywhere. We use these on the front of all of our Rogue Chassis'

CNC machined from 2" cold rolled to fit inside 1.75" x .120" wall tube. Made to be used in conjuction with a 7/8" shackle.






Click HERE for more info!
 

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What we have done in high stress areas, like my full hydro ram mount, is to use a standard bumper clevis mount and plasma cut the 1.75" tube so that the clevis mount fits completely through the tube and then weld the mount in fully on both sides. I don't have any good ones of what I am talking about, but here are the clevis mounts I am speaking of:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What we have done in high stress areas, like my full hydro ram mount, is to use a standard bumper clevis mount and plasma cut the 1.75" tube so that the clevis mount fits completely through the tube and then weld the mount in fully on both sides. I don't have any good ones of what I am talking about, but here are the clevis mounts I am speaking of:

yeah man that's what i'm talking about...it's just that i have tubed buggy w/ all round tubing up front. I'm just trying to see a good way to mount the clevis tabs.
 

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i also cut a piece of tube in half and then welded it to the tube with plug holes drilled in it.. then welded my d ring to it..
 

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welding 1'' thick cold rolled onto 1/8'' thick cold formed tubing...might wanna have a good welder do it, or youll have little penetration on the 1'', id seriously consider heating up the thicker material if you have any doubts in your welding skills

Why would you need much more than 1/8" or so of penetration when welding a 1" thick tab on to a 1/8" thick tube.

I would think the tube is going to deform and or tear apart before the weld would give away.

Personally, I would be more concerned about how much area I can get welded vs. how deep.

But, I may be talking out of my ass.
 

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I'm not personally a fan of chassis mounts on rigs, especially ones with airshocks/coilovers. What Dan said is true, weld it properly and there won't be any issues although most of the ideas here are good but overkill. However, I incorporated my mount into my rear truss and it is far and away superior to any tow point I've ever had mounted to the chassis. Taking the suspension out of the equation is huge. Just make sure your links and chassis are up to the task

 

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I'm not personally a fan of chassis mounts on rigs, especially ones with airshocks/coilovers. What Dan said is true, weld it properly and there won't be any issues although most of the ideas here are good but overkill. However, I incorporated my mount into my rear truss and it is far and away superior to any tow point I've ever had mounted to the chassis. Taking the suspension out of the equation is huge. Just make sure your links and chassis are up to the task

that would suck ass if you got buried in the mud :laughing:

but for crawling that would be a pretty nice setup
 

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Another option for mounting D-Rings on a chassis....

A couple of plug welds and one surface weld. These suckas aren't going anywhere. We use these on the front of all of our Rogue Chassis'

CNC machined from 2" cold rolled to fit inside 1.75" x .120" wall tube. Made to be used in conjuction with a 7/8" shackle.






Click HERE for more info!
TJKen are those the ones that Flashover MFG was making last year?
I think Carwash used them in his EJS or bust build.
 

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I really abuse my rear tow points so the last time I re-worked the buggy I built some overkill pad eyes. IIRC they are 5/8" plate. I bevel them to a point, pre-heat the plate and make a multi pass weld. Yes, the tube will tear away before the weld will fail, but thats why I make them long, and tie them into everything I can...
 

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I have the BTF deals and have not had a problem. Have winched to them and used the yank strap with no issues...I'm sure you can beef the chit out of something and make it stronger, but I have had no issues with mine just booty welded to .120 wall tube

 

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I made sure I hit more than one tube, kind of like bgreen.
only thing that scares me about welding a 10lb chunk of 1" on .120 wall tube is people that can't weld well, and like to use a jerk strap at full throttle to pop people out of holes. then it becomes a 10lb death slingshot. in the rocks, probably not a concern.
 
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