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Discussion Starter #1
I’m doing a frame off restore of a 75 CJ5 and the floor boards and rocker panels are showing signs of rust, imagine that. I’m going to have the whole tub sand blasted soon so I will have a better idea of the damage. Here’s a few questions. Keep in mind that I’m not really going for perfection since I will probably be beating the crap out of it anyway, I just need it strong
1. If the rust is concentrated mainly around the joint between the floors and side panel I was going to just cut back to solid metal and replace them with new pieces 16 gauge scrap steel that I have laying around. Or I have found a place that offers replacement panels, would I be better off replacing the entire panels with new prefabed ones?
2. When welding in new floors or patches do I need to cut new pieces to fit exactly in place for welding a perfect butt weld or would it be better to have a little extra for an overlapping weld?
 

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Originally posted by CJ_JEEPER:
<STRONG>I’m doing a frame off restore of a 75 CJ5 and the floor boards and rocker panels are showing signs of rust, imagine that. I’m going to have the whole tub sand blasted soon so I will have a better idea of the damage. Here’s a few questions. Keep in mind that I’m not really going for perfection since I will probably be beating the crap out of it anyway, I just need it strong
1. If the rust is concentrated mainly around the joint between the floors and side panel I was going to just cut back to solid metal and replace them with new pieces 16 gauge scrap steel that I have laying around. Or I have found a place that offers replacement panels, would I be better off replacing the entire panels with new prefabed ones?
2. When welding in new floors or patches do I need to cut new pieces to fit exactly in place for welding a perfect butt weld or would it be better to have a little extra for an overlapping weld?</STRONG>
I cut out the entire floor and replaced it with 3/16" steel treadplate. Overlapping is fine for small areas but I'd seal the overlap with fiberglass to avoid re-rust out. Hell you will probably of rolled by then anyway.
<IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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After you sandblast it and assess the damage, weld patches if needed, or use replacement panels if the rust is excessive, and then spend the cash to POR-15 (or similar product)it inside and out. Yeah, it's time consuming, and costs a 100 bucks, but the shit works! Just make sure all your welding is done prior to doing it, (cage, frame tie-ins, etc). It doesn't react well to welding and is a bitch to remove. I'd stay away from fiber glass or body filler, Body flex and beating the crap out of your rig will ensure that it will crack and fall off. The Por-15 will take a severe beating and prevent rust from coming back.
 

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I had to go through this on my Jeep I have now. I measured out floor board pieces and had them sheered out of a main sheet of 12ga. 16 will be fine though. What I did was cover the whole floor and weld in the peices because that was the easyest thing to do and if the rust becomes a problem again the tub will be so thrashed it wont matter.
 

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i've seen like 'floorboard trusts' welded to the underside of fabricated floorboards. You can use anything from sheetmetal to box tubing.

but a good coat of sealer will help prevent more rust in the future.

are you going to weld or rivet your plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I'm leaning toward a slight over lapping weld for the floor plates. I agree with the call of a good layer of sealant after my work is done. POR 15 will probably be my choice, very durable. Most of my damage is in the front floor supports and body mounts. I have found a place that sells prefabbed floor supports for $60 a side called Classic Enterprises (www.classicent.com). Sounded like a reasonable way to go. Any other advice? I'll take it.
 

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There's a company that makes a offset on the steel plate so you can overlap. The floorboards have the braces that you will have to replace if they are rusted. i redid the floors on my 46 2a, and if you don't care how they look from underneath, put a lap in them, with the top being flat. when you weld use a wire feed and stitch weld so you don't warp. take your time.
 
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