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Does anyone have any information on the best way to weld the differential? Mine broke after a few runs, any info is appreciated. Maybe someone has some pics?
 

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Thanks Rudezuke, but this winter Toyota axles are going under so I don't want to spend much on these axles. I just need to get by for some more summer wheeling....
 

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JB Weld it,,, come awnnn... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I welded the diff for my friends Sami, and he broke it driving on the street a few days later. I felt pretty bad about it.. until he broke it loose again after having a pro do it the second time. He's on his third weld job now.. and its held together through some fairly serious wheelin (about 8 months worth).. So Im not sure what the trick is.. just weld it.. ALOT.. gears to gears.. gears to housing.. fill the damn thing with a big ass puddle of welding love!!

Rob
 

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I welded mine with a mig but you have to have a powerful one. none of that 110 crap. Go for it. Weld as continuously as possible to really keep the heat up.
 

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well, with my rear, I welded the side and spiders together outside of the carrier making sure it all was solidly welded together and consistantly. But since it wont fit in then I ground the outside down until it slipped in, looks kinda like a mini-spool now <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> . Dont have to worry bout the thrust washers anymore anyway since nothing is gonna spin. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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yea I used "I cant believe its not butter" havent noticed any off road performance improvement.
 

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I'm a toyota guy, and I don't know why I am here . .but just pokin around. I have welded on my diff a few times and this is what I do:
Slide the axle shafts out a bit, and remove the 3rd member. Run 6013 rods, and run low amps. Grab a wire brush and clean off the surface like never before. I even use a grease remover to make sure nothing is going to screw with the arc. Then I run a low amp bead along the weld. Its pretty darn easy to poke a hole in them, and that can be a bitch to fix. Once you have a layer of welds there, let it cool, and crank up the amps. Run another pass with more amperage. I usually run between 65-85 amps on the first pass, and then go up to 110-115 for the next few. Sometimes I even do somepasses with a 6011 to cross thread the layers of welds, but I'm anal.
 

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OOP! Your not talking aboutthe housing, you are talking about welding the 3rd member, aren't yah? In that case, use 6011 rods, ~90 amps and go to town. Cover them up with 6013 and grind them down clean. DO a few passes. Simple shit.
 

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I have welded several rear diffs using my MIG which is a miller185. when i weld them I weld the spider gears where they meet the one next to them. make sure you get good penetration and fill up the teeth on the gears( not all the teeth just the two or three on either side of contact) in each area then rotate the diff and weld the other side. you should break the axles before the welds let go at least that has been my expirence. <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0">
 

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I welded up a Yota IFS front member just like hy_desert_4wheeler did.....I also used my Millermatic 185 MIG for the job and used it on "low amps" also. I figured the same thing as Russ did....weld the teeth together where the sidegears meet the spiders for a total of 8 welds....they will not be the weak link. If all I had was a Lincoln 100 MIG to weld with then that would be no prob for me again.

[ 08-28-2001: Message edited by: ZUK ]
 

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I couldn't wheel the same without a welded or spooled diff, Limited slips just aren't locked, lockers(not talking about fancy selectable types) I don't trust cause they unlock( should be called un-lockers stead of lockers) sometimes which throws a shock to the driveline(I've seen more locker equipped axles snap than welded diffs, but the welded diffs seem to loosen the pinion shaft up quicker) and therefore causes inconsistent handling with the slip up which most of them time you never notice it off road,but in certain conditons wheeling fast on hard dirt roads it messes up your back-pedal traction effect which is how I hold a line through a lot of turns off road, I love to drift(keeps from tipping if yer skiddin) around fast where I can and the samuri is the only street legal atv that does it high thrill like (just neeed more power). The security of having both tires welded or spooled helps at holding the groove. At first driving with either takes a change in habits and predicting where you go, all I'm saying is stick with the spool/welded diff(seen only cheaper mig ones break) I've found it to be less spooky and lets really look at the benefits of a few moving parts the locker offers as opposed to a solid piece to hold the ring gear and axles-Tire wear- how much do you save on wear from an offroad vehicle that skids the tire through the turn completely as opposed to skidding most of it with a couple unlocks to chirpy chirp things up, that unlocking is annoying to me and the banging makes me cringe evrytime not too mention the steering effect on the street is more eratic(fun in the rain), some say the wind up a spool has on an axle causes it to break easier on the street opposed to the relief the locker gives- in a heavier vehicle this holds true which is why not too many people run spools on the street but the sammy is so light it doesn't seem to matter, the locker releases very crude and the sammy doesn't have the weight to calm the forces, just my experience on the subject- my nickels worth, call me crazy cooter but when I ain't wheeling I'm thinkin bout all them purdy hikin chicks I'm missing out on with thier Lara Croft fantasies they be havin wit each other on the mountain. Stay Zooked people.
 
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