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i tried google and no luck finding how to build a turntable for welding.. im considering doing that.. and if i use a rotary table (with variable power supply) thats normally used for mill or stuff liket hat.. was wondering if its possible to have it stop after one full revolution... stop the welding and turning the table.. or just stop the welding thats all would be perfect.. any suggestion on how? i was thinkin of a normal switch or something with a thing sticking out to turn it on and off.. anyone got better idea?
 

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is this for machine welding or welding by hand, just with a automatic table?

for a table you could use a belt driven (gear reduced) electric motor to get the speed in the ballpark..then use a lgiht dimmer switch to tune it in.

I would have the ground somehow scrape the table..like a big copper brush instead of travel through the bearings..unless you are SURE you bearings are tight, do not have any gap for ground to arc through or it could sieze up.

maybe you could get a automated potters wheel and just slow it down somehow?
 

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for the money those would be hard to beat. you couldn't make one for that price.

We have a couple heavy duty ones at my dad's shop...it all depends on how fancy you want to get. The more fancy the more $

I'd go look through princess auto surplus should be able to find something. A step motor and controler would be awesome but without knowing what your trying to do may be more than you need.
 

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I used to work in a truck shop, they also did driveshaft work. There was a machine that turned the driveshaft, a holder for the mig gun, and a toggle switch on the side of the gun. All he had to do was hit the switch on, and then off when it was done. It only took maybe a minute to weld it. As for a ground, he had an automotive ground strap. One end was weighted, the other clamped in his ground lead, and he just draped it over the driveshaft.
 

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for stuff that is perfectly round (only was your gunna be able to use a holder for the gun) I think a poormans driveline press would be better..

we use to use one that was turned by hand and a foot you can wire a sweing machine pedal into your welder really easy..
I like being able to trun peice by hand..I think you can get better welds.

you can build a driveline press pretty easy if thats what you guys are trying to do post up (they are a pain in the ass to describe so if thats not it I won't waste my time)

that ebay table looks cool

EDIT holy crap its cheap..
you could cut various fixters for adapters that bolt onto ti real easy to
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yea plan to weld bunch of circle stuff.. not just driveline stuff..
that guy has plenty so some of you guys can grab some too
 

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Heck, at that price it seems foolish not to buy one!
 

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Try Reiner Industries in New York. I've got a weld turntable there for repair right now. I'll get a phone number tomorrow for the guy. The turntable we've got is used for tig welding by hand so at top speed it turns about 3 rpm, but you can slow it down to almost nothing. A deluxe model has special programing in it so it will move forward a small amount then back up to where the weld started and then move forward again at a rate you set. I assume that ir will automatically stop after one revolution. Like I said, ours is just stop start, forward reverse, with a speed control. Be forwarned, theey're not cheap.
We have another one that I made using a thrust bearing setup from McMaster with a low rpm ac motor that has a 90 degree gear reducer built in. If you want more details I can get pics at work tomorrow.

Dave
 

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Here you go:

Ralph Reiner
Reiner Industries
6870 Gemesee Rd.
Springville, N.Y. 14141
ph. (716) 592-5025

If that doesn't work let me know, and i'll get some pics of the one we built.

Dave
 

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hotwired said:
Here you go:

Ralph Reiner
Reiner Industries
6870 Gemesee Rd.
Springville, N.Y. 14141
ph. (716) 592-5025

If that doesn't work let me know, and i'll get some pics of the one we built.

Dave

Pics please:D
 

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Hopefully this will work.
Here's a picture of the top of the turntable, it's not real clear, but there is a 1 1/2" hole through the turntable so we can run a shaft down through and weld it onto a part sitting on the turntable.

This second pic shows the left side on the table, notice we have a copper bus for the welder ground. You do not want the current from the welder going through the bearings! On the bottom of the turntable you can see where there are two spring loaded brass rods that actually carry the current through to the table. The table itself is aluminum, and we get very little wear from the brass/ aluminum as the turntable rotates.

On the right side you can see the 4x4 elctrical box that has a fuse holder, forward/off/reverse switch and a pot for speed adjustment. In the background you can see the browning thrust bearing assembly that holds the turntable, it's rated for a 2,000lb sideload and we rutinely run parts that weigh 300-400lbs on it. There is also a toothed timing belt and shivs that give us more reduction than was built into the motor/gear reducer combo.

If that's what your afteer I can dig up more specs on the individual components.

Dave
 

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Gotta love those red X's:mad3: :mad3:

Randy,
Since I'm a cheap SOB I don't have a red star and apparently that stopped the images from coming through. I tried to pm you, but for some reason my work email program doesn't recognize your pirate email addy. Shoot me a pm and I'll get you pics and maybe you can post them.

Dave
 

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^^^
Looks kinda like the one I built/used.
Built witha beater 10" Rotary table direct coupled to a worm gear drive motor (Grainger motor) with a dimmer for control and a reverse switch. We didnt use any "brushes" to make contact with the table as it was deemed unnecessary. Using std mill clamps and Tee nuts made for being able to rough center up odd shaped parts that needed a concentric weld.
and using fixtures that mounted in the ceneter acess hole of the table made for quick change-load and unload of parts routinely done

I too have used the Renier but they are $$$

Bottom line they make for excellent cosistency in comparison to rolling parts on the table or annoying a machinist with arcs-spittin'-fuming all over a good lathe...

D.
 

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Randii- thanks for the help, don't know what I did wrong, but at least the pics are out there now:shaking:

David- Yes the Reiner tables are expensive but they are built good, ours is rated to hold 500 lbs and gets used 24/7. The one above was originally only rated for about 150lbs and the turtable was built as part of the green motor housing. Looks pretty cobbled together in the pics, but it's been used for about three years now and is still going strong. We never bothered to make anything to clamp the parts in place because all our welding is done manually, so even if it's off a little the guy welding just follows the contour of the part being welded.

Dave
 

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hotwired said:
Randii- thanks for the help, don't know what I did wrong, but at least the pics are out there now:shaking:

David- Yes the Reiner tables are expensive but they are built good, ours is rated to hold 500 lbs and gets used 24/7. The one above was originally only rated for about 150lbs and the turtable was built as part of the green motor housing. Looks pretty cobbled together in the pics, but it's been used for about three years now and is still going strong. We never bothered to make anything to clamp the parts in place because all our welding is done manually, so even if it's off a little the guy welding just follows the contour of the part being welded.

Dave
Ive used both the Renier and the homebuilt for TIG stuff. Clamping was required cuz of the weld being dominantly thin SST and only doing fusion welds. Fitup and ensuring we had decent heat sinks were the only way to ensure parts didnt get damaged. At $400/ for 1" sapphire viewports you only had one chance to do the .015" cuffs to the flanges... ;)

D.
 

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Just found this thread.

I threw together a bootyfab welding turntable last week from stuff sitting around the garage to weld 1/2" dia rock rings onto my wheels.

Used a 2x8 piece of lumber as the base, mounted a piece of 3/4" shaft stock with an 8" wheel from a cart and an old chevy rotor hat.
At the other end, I mounted a speed adjustable medical irrigation pump on it's side and gutted the pump assy so the driveshaft is accessible. Used a hummer wheel O-ring as the drive belt.

The pump has a DC converter to drive a motor with a 18:1 ratio gearbox attatched to it. With that, and the belt drive ratio, the wheel can turn as slow as 1/8 rpm to a whopping 12 rpm. A potentiometer controls the speed anywhere in between.

The thing works great.
Had a problem with the welder's ground cable keeping the wheel from turning smoothly at first causing uneven welds. After I fixed that, the welds were nearly robotic looking. Started in one spot, and welded all the way around in one shot. I used a jackstand to rest the welding gun on to keep steady.

Best part is, painting them up is a breeze with the thing spinning around.

It looks a little hokey, but served it's purpose.
That ebay table looks good. Might be worth picking one of those up instead of spending time beefing mine up.

 
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