Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i have about 8-9 inches of lift w/ chevy springs and I am running buggy springs. my question is--at full droop, my axle is pulling hard on this brake prop. line and this line may be limiting my travel some. this is my daily driver, and 4 mo. out of the year i drive in snow. any suggestions? ---running 36tsl's <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ill try aor thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,491 Posts
I am planning on installing an adjustable valve (I bought a wilwood) Then I am going to use the two stock lines that run to the back to install a cutting brake between the seats. (its a hydrolic hand brake to lock up
just the left or right wheel) If need to make a reallly tight turn, I can flip the switch on the ARB,grab the cutting brake and turn on a dime. Thats the theory,anyway. <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0">

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,338 Posts
Roccman, what do you mean by,
I removed mine, brakes seam to work better
with the heavy tires and wheels
???

Did you remove the proportioning valve rod? This should make braking less effective due to almost zero pressure to the rear brakes. Or did you remove the whole valve? If so what did you replace it with to connect the rear brake hose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,024 Posts
Remove the entire valve. Connect the line from the front that goes into the valve directly into the line tha goes into the tee at the diff. Then plug the line that goes back to the front of the frame and into the frenzy of lines just inside the pass wheelwell. For the wilwood, unhook the line that heads to the rear, attach a short section where you just removed that one, then plumb the new valve inbetween. Not very clear but I will take pictures when I get the chance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,996 Posts
<font color="yellow">
My truck had the thingy adjusted by a bracket that came with the 4" lift the P.O. put on it... I found that tying it all the way up gave some good braking response - since the rears had never really been doing much work before.

Then again, my rear brake shoes were gone in 6 months and the front pads hardly wore. Okay.. back to the drawing board...I simply cut the arm about 8 inches long and made a little bracket bolted to thebottom of the body and to it, holding it in position about 2/3 of the way down in it's travel. Breaks wear evenly, and more importantly...

THAT PROPORTIONING VALVE HAS A BLEEDER SCREW IN IT I NEVER SAW!!! I bled that sucker, and my brakes doubled in firmness! Yee-haw! I can Stop! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
As stated above, just remove valve, screw
hard line into flex line. will have to modify
bracket that supports flex line , easy to do
try it out, use at your own risk. It works
great on my truck, may not on yours <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

·
Wicked Raciest !
Joined
·
17,734 Posts
Originally posted by MasterYota:
<STRONG><font color="yellow">
THAT PROPORTIONING VALVE HAS A BLEEDER SCREW IN IT I NEVER SAW!!! I bled that sucker, and my brakes doubled in firmness! Yee-haw! I can Stop! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></font></STRONG>
Sure does, tells you that in the Factory Service Manual!!!! When in doubt, Read!!!! Also tells you the proper way to bleed the brakes;
Drivers Side Rear
Passenger Side Rear
Passenger Side Front
Drivers Side Front
LSPV
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,402 Posts
I was in the same boat as you although I only have ~5" of lift with mazda 3/4 elliptical. This is how I did it:
<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/proportion valve relocated.jpg">

I like how it works. It doesn't seem to lock the rear tires even under hard "nose wheeling" type braking!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,400 Posts
I cut the rod off of my valve, left about 6" or so, then ran a turnbuckle to the underside fo the floor and can adjust the height of the leaver to balance the front/rear braking:

Prop Valve fix

I found my lever would move to the full up position by itself, made the rear end lock up. The turnbuckle holds it down a bit off the top of travel and keeps the rear brakes from locking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,491 Posts
Originally posted by 4CrawlR:
<STRONG>I cut the rod off of my valve, left about 6" or so, then ran a turnbuckle to the underside fo the floor and can adjust the height of the leaver to balance the front/rear braking:

Prop Valve fix

I found my lever would move to the full up position by itself, made the rear end lock up. The turnbuckle holds it down a bit off the top of travel and keeps the rear brakes from locking.</STRONG>
That's agreat idea <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0">
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top