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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What is needed to fit 33s or 35s on an 84 W150?

Edit: its an 84 W150, not an 85.

I have been going back and forth trying to figure what I want to do with this truck. I am afraid that if I go with 35s that it will be too much tire for the poor 318 to haul around. I don't want to do a body lift, and I would prefer to stick with 4" lift or less.

I was thinking about getting some 4" lift springs for the front and doing a shackle flip in the rear. I figured this would be about the cheapest suspension lift I could do (poor college student here)., while still riding halfway decent. Would I be able to fit 35s with this or will some fender trimming be required?

The truck has a D44 and 9 1/4 with 3.21 gears, 318 2bbl, 727, NP208. I do have a Holley 600 vacuum secondary carb and Edelbrock performer intake sitting in the garage.

Here it is with 32x11.50x15 BFG MTs on 15x10 American Racing Outlaw II wheels. Sorry for the poseur driveway shot, but it still has a few issues with the auto hubs and exhaust/front driveshaft clearance. The tires are so very close to rubbing the fender, but they manage to clear.

I guess what I am asking is what is the minimum amount of work I will need to do to fit 33x12.50s or 35x12.50s.



Thanks,
Eric
 

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Min amount of work... I would say 3 sawzall blades work nicely. If you want to go 35", i think that BDS makes a nice lift... i clean 35" with a 3" rancho.. stiff as fuck.. Personally i woudlnt go any bigger than 32" with 3.23 gears.. gearing sucks already. I have 35" for my ram, but wont put them on because of the lack of gearing (3.55's). All depends on what you want to do with the truck

Also watch out, the shackle flip will move your tire forward in the wheel well, and looks kinda kooky, I also know it reduces your towing capacity, and on top of that puts an extra strain on the springs.

Just things to think about.

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will 33s fit with just fender trimming and no lift? I have been thinking about extended shackles for the front to help even out the height f/r and gain a little clearance. I plan on swapping the gears eventually, but I don't know how long it will be before I am able to get to that.

Eric
 

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if you put on lower shackles, i would also lower the front mounts. I will also make you a bet that your springs are almost inverted, and very close to the bumpstops. Be a good time for a set of 2" lift spring.. or just do what i do, and run what i got until it breaks.

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hick said:
BTW, looks much better with the new rims :flipoff2:
Yeah it does, I got them for $80 with the tires. Unfortunately, all but one tire is too worn to use. I was hoping they would have more tread, but hey, 4 wheels for less than the price of one new wheel, I can't complain. :D The old wheels are still on the truck until I can figure out what to do for tires.

BTW, I had to replace the timing cover on it the other day. The old one was so corroded it would not seal. There was a big hole about to break through to the outside. I also put a new double roller timing chain on it. The timing went from 12 degrees with the old chain to 20 degrees with the new chain. Once I backed the timing down to 14 degrees it no longer pings, guess that was the problem all along (loose chain).

Eric
 

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Yup, Those stock dodge timing chains stuck. Gotta love the $25 summit racing chains :p .

You still think you may swap to some axles with deeper gearing? Last I talked to you you wanted to toss in 3/4 ton suburban axles.

Garrett

Oh, and i beat you on the rims and tires, I got my last set for free... and then before that I paid $25 a rim NEW... one more plus for summit

Garrett
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am going to stick with the stock axles for now. Get the tires and lift situated first. Maybe when it comes time for deeper gearing I will look into swapping a D60/D70 in.

Eric
 
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