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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 82 toyota truck, and I am just gonna use it to play offroad, nothing too hard-core. I don't want a suspension lift at all but I will use a body lift and cut my fenders, but all that I want to do is fit bigger tires. How big should I go without having to re-gear or breaking to much stuff. My purpose is too have something that I can just play in. I paid $450 for the truck, and I don't want to put too much money into it other than tires

Thanks

Trey
 

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t-rag said:
I don't want a suspension lift at all but I will use a body lift and cut my fenders, but all that I want to do is fit bigger tires. I paid $450 for the truck.

Thanks

Trey
Why. $450 beaters make the best wheelers. Don't have to worry about rollin it, dentin it etc....
 

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I agree, you'll have more fun if you keep it smaller for a while and really get a feel for the truck. My advice.
Forget the body lift, bolt on some 33"s and trim to fit, it probably won't take much trimming at all, the 82s have bigger wheel openings.
Weld the rear spider gears in the differential to get yourself one cheap locker.
If you've got a little extra cash, buy a dual transfer case adapter, they can be had for $275, maybe less, and just run two stock transfer cases. With 33"s that will be more than enough gearing to crawl quite well. This would require one extra low-range box off of a transfer case and that you shorten your rear driveshaft and lengthen the front though. Someone with a welder could do this for you for cheap.
If you don't care what the truck looks like, then lose the bed and put a shortened box steel bed in it's place, something that can take hits and will allow you to pivot off of trees and rocks.
good luck.

I'd like to break Avril ;)
 

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i garuntee within 6 months you will 63" chevy's, rears upfront and wish you had 35's

before you get carried away and spend $ on anything, you should spend time on the board.

i started wanting spring uder 4" lift and 35's

now i am going 4-link front and rear and 37,40 or 42

i saved a lot of money by making up my mind and deciding what i really want instead of continually changing my mind
 

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I have 33s on my 83. The big wheelwells in the front are nice. Chicago department of streets took care of my bed for me by dumping salt on the roads every time it snows someplace in the world. I built the flat bed to clear 35s.
Any bigger than 33s and a stock 22R will have trouble getting out of it's own way.
 

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I have an 80' I bought for $600, swapped over a 2WD cab with some buddies, locked the rear, bought some tires, and I wheel the piss out of it, no more than a $1000 bucks into the whole thing
 

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TRD said:


before you get carried away and spend $ on anything, you should spend time on the board.

...

i saved a lot of money by making up my mind and deciding what i really want instead of continually changing my mind
this is the gospel truth.

no one really starts out with their first rig and thinks they will be running 57" springs, shocks though the bed, exo cage, atlas II case, etc.

Lurk a bit, see where you can get the bang for your buck and go from there...
 

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You'll have more fun if you keep it smaller for a while and really get a feel for the truck.

Screw the body lift, bolt on some 33"s and trim/sledgehammer to fit, it won't take much trimming. However, my 1" bodylift on the cab only makes more tire room and the top 2 bellhousing bolts for clutch and tranny work are way easier to get to.

Don't weld the rear spider gears in the differential, buy a detroit locker or a lockrite.

If you've got a little extra cash, buy a dual transfer case adapter, they can be had for $275, maybe less, and just run two stock transfer cases. With 33"s that will be more than enough gearing to crawl quite well. This would require one extra low-range box off of a transfer case and that you shorten your rear driveshaft and lengthen the front.

Keep the bed for now.
 

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hell, if the bed isn't rotted try to sell it, you could find someone up north where the salt eats everything willing to buy...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the advice.

The bed is really rusted, so I was planning on making a flatbed for it.

I am a welder so welding is no problem.

I am planning on welding my spiders gear front and rear, if there ant big problem with this? I know that welding the front will make it hard to steer. Will I break more stuff if I weld them?

Thanks again,

Trey
 

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it depends on how much crazy ass wheeling you do. you do crazy things at low speed with lots of steering your birfield will be the first to kill himself. but then again your only running 33's. i give you about 6 months or less before you'v got chevy's in the rear and your lookin for 35's. nobody can stay happy with small things!!!
 

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don't weld up the front until you learn to wheel with the rear welded up. then if you feel you need it, get a locker of some kind, ARB is best, for the front.
 

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Don't weld the front.

You'll need a 10 acre field to turn around, and on slick surfaces you can't turn at all.

I have a locker in the front, it's bad enough, but when I have to I can hit 2wd and turn around.

With welded front r&p you'll have to get out an unlock a hub to turn.
 

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weldin the front will cause disaster. birfield breakage left adn right. wheel with 33's till you find that not having lockers is holding you back. then start with a rear. then move to the front. by the time your needin a front locker youll be on 38's. its an addcition. and its expensive. and remember ... a semi-built rig with a good driver can out wheel the built rig with a sorry driver. refine your skills now.
 

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the stuff

well my recamendation would be to cut the wheel wells on it i have a frineds who did the same thing u want just cut the wheel wells on in he has has a 83 toyota i thnx and he has 35's on it pretty nice
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a set of 10 bolts from my 89 Blazer, would it be better to run them instead of my stock, axles?
 

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NO!

C-CLIPS and prone to breakage
 
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