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Discussion Starter #1
I know Rivets. What kind would be the best. I am armoring up my XJs beat to crap quarters. I am using 3/16 steel diamond plate to my beercan thick sheetmetal. It is thick and heavy. Were can I get the goods. Are rivets the best option.. Steel or stainless.. Thanks
 

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I think any type of Blind(POP) rivet will evently work itself loose when used in thin sheet metal without a backing washer. I would get steel deep rivits and ALWAYS use a backing washer. It may be hard to get in behind the rivet to put the washer on but it will be worth the work. With the weight you are riviting on you might want to consider using small bolts with nylon lock nuts and big washers and use rivits in places you cannot thru bolt.

HTH <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I'd say to try and find some of the recessed bolts like avalanche engineerig uses on their rocker panels and corner panels. You drill a recessed hole into the 3/16" metal diamond plating and use these bolts and then the exterior surface will be flush. Check out their website and you should be able to get a better idea of what im talking about.
http://www.avalancheengr.com/

HTH,
Tim
 

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I would use aluminum plate. Yes, it isn't as strong as steel, but it's a heckuva lot lighter. I am going to be doing the same thing this winter.
 

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id go with some carriage bolts...maybe every 8 or so inches...and smear a big line of jb weld all the way around the outside edge of the diamond plate..plannin on beveling the edges on your plate? or leave em??
how does that stuff work over existing 1/4 panel dents?
Hunter
 

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I've had good results using Riv Nuts to secure things to thin sheet metal. Like my subframe for the longarms. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> It's been on for a few thousand miles, it went through Golden Crack, and no shear yet from the frame.. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

I use 3/8"x16 AL or AK series (I think it's AK) rivnuts for blind holes in sheetmetal. You'll need the tool for them as well, but they are pretty strong and worth it, IMO.

Bob
 

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Don't plate it, just cut the offending pieces off, fold up the inside edge of the quarter to make a bottom for the hollow area inside and then fill with your favorite sealant. Then all you have to hit is the 1.25" flared sheet that comes away from the main body panel, If you want to get really trick, plate the remainder or build a guard that comes off your rear bumper to where the quarter used to be, 2x3" rect tube 3/16" wall works good, lots more tire clearence too <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0">

Matt

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Button head bolts (rounded with an allen recess) and a large flat washer and nut.
 

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Originally posted by SeanP:
<STRONG>I would use aluminum plate. Yes, it isn't as strong as steel, but it's a heckuva lot lighter. I am going to be doing the same thing this winter.</STRONG>
Stay away from aluminum plate unless your into just looking cool for the street. I've seen MANY dented and gouged aluminum quarters from miner wheeling, I've seen steel corners repeatidly backed into house size rocks with only slight scratches. Why do you think no one sells true corner and rocker protection made from aluminum??? Skidplates are one are you should not sacrifice for weight, if your gonna do something why do it half-assed????????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the replys. I ended up going with Grade 5 nuts and bolts with lock washers. 18 per side. The final result looks killer. I also hacked off the bottom of the quarters. thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 
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