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Discussion Starter #1
I got hearing damage from turning the radio
up so loud it would cover up the noise of my tires.

ok was thinking of coating the under side of
vehicle with herculiner ?

or maybe some sound dedening material.

any ideas ?
 

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Daily driver would help.
 

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I have started doing some sound deadning on my gay little s-10 (the blazer is beyond hope sound wise!).

I didn't really want to spend the $$$ that Dynamat costs so I choose a different ruite.

A few months back I saw a article on some sound deadning paint in Four Wheeler. It was called Noise Killer. It is a rubbery latex (water cleanup) paint. I bought some and tried it out.

I also had heard that a roofing material called Peel & Seal worked good at deadning sound so I had some ordered in by Lowe's. That is a bit much but you should have enough to go in w/ a friend on it.

The Noise Killer was $50 (with shipping) for a gal. and the Peel & Seal was $120 for 100 sq. ft.

I started on the back wall of my '87 ext. cab because it came bare from the factory and my turned down after the muffler exhaust makes it deathly loud inside. I also had no headliner in it because I pulled it out when it started to sag.

I applied the Noise Killer w/ a foam brush in 4 thin coats to both the roof (not easy because of all the drips) and the back wall. I then layed down a layer of the Peel & Seal.

The difference is night and day! After I removed the factory "tar paper" patches from the roof it would ring after I shut the door. When I put the paint on it was a bit better then factory. After I put the Peel & Seal over that it was as much if not more of a difference then with the paint vs. bare roof! I finished the roof off by spray mounting some 1/2" insulation to the roof and then put in a plastic headliner I got from JCWhitney. With the difference it made just doing the back wall and roof I can't wait to do the doors, floor, and firewall.

I still have 1/2 gal. of paint left and about 80 sq. ft. of the roofing material (it came in a 33' roll 36" wide). I am going to use the rest of the paint to do the floor and firewall as well as some more of the Peel & Seal. For the doors I am going to use just the Peel & Seal as sound deadning/draft barrier. I am also thinking of doing the under side of the hood w/ the Peel & Seal.
 

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look on ebay. I got a 100 sq feet of dynomat extreme (actually a knock off of it but its about the same) for 120 bucks.. other then that, fill in any place ya can with spray foam (windowframes, door frames, A-pillars).
 

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any truck bed liner works very welll, we use to use it in our custom cars at the shop.........lite coat helps reduce strange nosie reflections, hevery coating will deaden out side noise, the combo of truck bed liner and the mats kicks ass ..................ltr
 

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I like the Noise Killer Blue. It's a blue sort of paint. It weighs the least per square foot of any sound insulator.
 

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Dychen said:
other then that, fill in any place ya can with spray foam (windowframes, door frames, A-pillars). [/B]

If you plan on keeping your rig for many years I would not recomend this. It is a serious rust magnet!!! I bought a vehicle in high school that the po had done this to.
 

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try this stuff.. http://www.rbsauto.com/NewProducts/CCC.html

What is it? Cool Car Ceramic is a single container composite product comprised of 80% innovative, air-filled, microscopic ceramic and silicon beads, held in suspension by resin binders

Benefits: Cool Car Ceramic can cut the heat through a floor or cowl 10 degrees with just a 30-40 mil (.030-.040) application. Road noise can be reduced by as much as 8 to 12 decibles.
 

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I used the cool car ceramic stuff from RB's. I read an article in Street Rodder about it, and it was way before the Four wheeler article on Noise Killer. It was expensive, I think around 160 bucks for a gallon. It can be sprayed, but I did my firewall to the rear axle from underneath so I brushed it. They say to use a foam brush, but I found that a standard brush worked way better. The cheap brushes didn't hold enough of the product, a mid grade natural brush worked much better. It took a shit load of coats to burn up the gallon. I just kept going back and forth until I spilled the last pint all over the driveway:rolleyes: Now that is done I really like the look of it, you could be careful and it would look fairly smooth. I just gobbed the shit on and it has some texture. It is soft in texture, you wouldn't want it rubbing on stuff. Can't comment on how well it works, the rig is still up on blocks.
 

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Brown Bread

I bought a roll of stuff called Brown Bread. Just like Dynamat extreme, but much cheaper...

-brett
 

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ChiScouter said:
It was expensive, I think around 160 bucks for a gallon.
actualy its 150 for 2 gal. 1 gal does 20sq/ft at 30 mill. you can go thicker and get better sound deadining and temp drop

btw.. theres 8 gal in this rig:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
YOU guys got me thinking.

I got a roofing product called torch down
left over from doing the roof

its thick plastic with a layer of asphalt

you peal off a papper backing and aply it to
the roof.

I bet it would work great under the cab and
in the doors I could even double up in places.

only draw back would be have to stay away from
heat.


what do you think ????
 

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Land Crusher said:
YOU guys got me thinking.

I got a roofing product called torch down
left over from doing the roof

its thick plastic with a layer of asphalt

you peal off a papper backing and aply it to
the roof.

I bet it would work great under the cab and
in the doors I could even double up in places.

only draw back would be have to stay away from
heat.


what do you think ????
That is why I went with the peal and seel. It has a aluminum top layer on it. Other than that it is exactly as you described.

The stuff to look for that is EXACTLY dynamat without the $$$ is High Temp Mastic from McMaster Carr.
 
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