[patooyee]

*Hey everyone, this is TyTy. *

I have come to the brink of completion of my 2 year project this January. As soon as I can get my motor running well I will end my webwheeler days.

Here's the info., this engine was put in from scratch. When I got this truck everything was in shambles, no labels, etc... Motor was sitting in the bed, wires everywhere, everything cut up, etc...

So, here is my current carb setup. It currentl has EVERY vacume line pluged, fuel in via a elec. low pressure fuel pump and I pressure regulator on there for shits and giggles.

It will start, no ilde whatsoever, you have to keep it at about 2500+ rpms to keep it running. It takes a long time to start.

I have new alternator, starter, wires, plugs, etc... We are pretty sure that all my problems lie in the carb.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[patooyee]

The green arrow is the solenoid that we opened up and took the little plunger deal out of. I have read that you need to put power to one of those wires that is on the carb with the green plug on them. I read you have to ground two of them and give power to the other OR just open up that solenoid and take out the plunger deal.

We took it out. If that was bad Ican easily put it back in.

 

[patooyee]

forgot to put the pic in, sorry

 

[patooyee]

here are some more angles. What Im hoping is that yall will tell me some thingslike, "DUH! You have to have that thing hooked up to run, idiot!" Stuff like that.

 

[patooyee]

more angles

 

[Booger Weldz]

ecliff will know about that deal on the carb. that was disconnected on mossy's rig and it ran like shit. i just assumed it was an electric choke, but when cliff hooked it back up properly she ran SMMMMMOOOOOOOTH!

 

[patooyee]

thats it. The last pic is of the left side of the carb if you're looking at it from the front of the truck.

When yo do crank it it rns rough too. We have played with the timing a great deal but it is hard to fine tune it when the truck is at 2500 rpm's just to keep it running.

Engines are my weak point, I can use any help you can give me!

Thanks a lot ladies and gents.

Just a little bribary...the faster I can get it runing the faster you can see me get stupid with it

 

[pmurf1]

I see your problem, it's so obvious.

























There's a carb on it! EFI all the way baby.
Sorry it didn't help any, but I had to say what we all were thinking.:flipoff2:

 

[SeaBass44]

I see your problem, it's so obvious.

























There's a carb on it! EFI all the way baby.
Sorry it didn't help any, but I had to say what we all were thinking.:flipoff2:

YUP, and you need 4 more cylinders too

 

[bobaki]

I'd be looking for a fairly big (2500) vacume leak,just what came to mind............................

 

[TyTy]

No EFI for me. If Ido anythin I would do propane. I dot have the money for jack crapola right now and this carb deal is all that stands between me and wheeling

I used to have a buddy that worked at the local 4x4 place that was a toyota EXPERT! He could figure itout blindfolded. I had always planned on bringing it to him for this once I got this far but he recently moved to Atlanta for ajob rebuilding toy motors

 

[davefj40]

i believe the red wire needs a switched 12v and it's the idle solenoid. i had a problem where i had a short in that wire and the 12v would come and go causing my truck to run fine and then shit the bed. try putting 12v to it.


dave

 

[dasumax]

that's how mines hooked up and it runs good. sounds more like ya got crap in the fuel bowl pluggin the idle circuit to me.
david

 

[overeasy]

You need to power up your fuel cut off solenoid. Black- and White and Black wires. I had a short in mine once and the truck would not run right just as you discribed.
Good luck

 

[davefj40]

like overeasy said, one of those wires needs power. need the wiring diagram to let you know exactly which one. don't have mine in front of me right now.

dave

 

[TyTy]

that's how mines hooked up and it runs good. sounds more like ya got crap in the fuel bowl pluggin the idle circuit to me.
david

So you're saying that you have all your vacume lines plugged?

I figured SOME of that stuff had to give vacume, not be plugged. I just thought I would plug it all up and get my mechanic buddy to show me which ones NEED the vacume, but like I said, he moved.

 

[Wheelie_Pete]

Okay, that thing you are pointing to with the green arrow is the Outer Vent Control Valve. If you took something out of that you missed your target.

The thing you are supposed to cut the plunger off of, (or give it a power source) is the primary fuel cut solenoid. I've outlined it in green and put two hash marks on it in the following picture.

Where it gets confusing is that the solenoid and electric choke wires all share the same green plug. My truck likes to pull the "I'll only run above 1200 rpm" when my emmissions control circuit board gets dirty. We finally figured out that it was the fuel cut solenoid not getting it's power because of the circuit board or the wiring harness plug getting dirty or wiggling loose.

Any way, if that plunger in the solenoid stays shut your rig will run fine at high rpm, but dies as you go to idle cause' well, it cuts the fuel off in the secondary (idle) circuit. It is my understanding that the solenoid is actually just a redundant toyota engineer mechanism that helps keep excess fuel from being dumped into the engine under deceleration. In other words, if you were on the freeway, and pushed in the clutch and started to brake, the solenoid would engage and cut off fuel, but then as it get's close to idle, it is supposed to open back up and give the engine enough fuel to idle. Any way, that's how I understand it.

If my truck is running and I unplug that green plug that the choke and idle solenoid wires are plugged into, the truck dies immediatly. It was actually a toyota mechanic that told me about cutting the tip off the solenoid. They said it was easier than troubleshooting the emmissions circuit board on the older trucks. I just cleaned my emmissions board with a toothbrush and made sure the harness was fully seated and it has worked fine since.

 

[TyTy]

Wheelie Pete:

Thanks a bunch! Unfortunatley Im leaving for FL tommorrow so I cant undo what I did and do what youre saying to do. You can bet I will try it as soon as I get home though.

I really appreciate the detailed description and picture. Through this buildup I have gotten really good at pretty much everything except engine trouble diagnosis. I think that is something that pretty much comes with time.

Man what I would do without the internet and good, knowledgeable people!

Tyler

 

[TyTy]

Alright ya'll. I cut that plunger off that fuel cut off solenoid (its just a tin piece of black rubber, like a braces rubberband only smaller) and tried it. Wont start. Then I put it back on and put a hot wire to the black wire and a ground to the white wire with black stripe and no go.

Any other helpful hints. Im so frustrated with this damn thing. I was hoping to take it out for a test drive this weekend but it looks like Im gonna have to wait until I can afford some trailer straps and tow it to my mechanic buddy to have a look at it. Im terrible at troubleshooting shit like this.

 

[larryboy]

i noticed that you have one of those silver pressure regulator thing on there. when i first got my luv , it had one of those on it and was giving me all sorts of problems like not idleing and such. i removed it and got my idle back,i figured it was obstructing fuel flow. just a thought.