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· Moderating Midget
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Sorry dude, the flanges will not just bolt up.

One thing you may check is if the FJ-60 front shaft they have has a CV joint. If so, snatch it up and have it converted to run your rear.

If not, just post here that you need a rear Dshaft. I usually have many spares, but I solf the last one the other day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nolen, I believe any stock rear FJ40 shaft will be about 4" too short;) the scrap yard said they had FJ60 USA and Canadian front and rear shafts but I wasn't sure of the difference.

What will it take to convert the shaft??? I'll be cutting it down to length anyway.
 

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Why not just get a Fj40 front shaft or a mini truck shaft shortened to fit? The mini shaft has a longer slip yoke. I wouldn't just drop in a CV type shaft in the rear without resetting your pinion angle at the 3rd member. Around here shops will shorten a shaft from $50-$100 and retube it for about $25 more. Call Jess if you want to know specifics.
 

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Use a T100 shaft from the front. It has a CV the pattern is the same as 4 speed and you wiil have to drill out the holes some.

DO NOT use one from BJ on Roids:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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you usually need a new flange or re-drill the drum if you hasve a drum- that's how we convert mini truck type cv's to cruzer stuff- we also can clearance c/v 's if needed to get more angle and not loose strength- Jess
 

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Deepsouth -

What do you really need? Give us what pattern, what length compressed and what length extended.... If you can also tell us what your drive train is, we might come up with one.

I know I have a 3 spd patern rear shaft for a 350/465 to non flipped springs shaft in my garage....

Jim
 

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cruzila said:
Use a T100 shaft from the front. It has a CV the pattern is the same as 4 speed and you wiil have to drill out the holes some.

DO NOT use one from BJ on Roids:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
WTF???
i missed the joke?

or are YOU the guy on our local site, and DID you see my carnage and trail side bootie fab from the weekend? :eek: :flipoff2:

by the way cadwhore, 1980 to 1984 FJ/BJ40s will have the EXACT same bolt pattern as the sixty series until 1989, they do over here ;) :flipoff2:

check the uni sizes, might eb as simple as swapping the flange straight off the uni

the front one, is the good one (double cardin)
 

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the late (post April 1985) FJ60 drivelines will have larger patterns than the '75 (ish) to 4/85 style 40/55/60. Joint Fuji makes a fine spline pinion yoke with both early and late patterns on it and also a blank disk one so you may drill your own holes. The front driveline is not double carden on late 60's. The slip yoke of your butchered exisiting driveline should be able to mount to the FJ60 rear which you will cut down. Thence only the rear pinion need be changed if you have fine spline (a coarse spline may be available but I have had no call for it).

The front FJ60 will have a long "neck" to clear the tranny crossmember on 60's and late 40's.

Driveline retubes run $75-$200 w/ U joint service or inspection (I just had 5 done, $320 in SLC).

if anyone cares, spring under 2F 40 w/ H55 has front driveshaft 32 1/2" flange to flange- which is identical to FJ62 auto front driveline (hint) and rear is 18 5/8" flange to flange.


and what would just keep you from retubing the old driveline and overhauling it???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks guys, I found out the machine shop across the street can retube and balance my shaft for about $175.00 (rick d was right on)

BUT after further inspection it appears I might have toasted the rear pinion bearing by driving it with the yokes out of phase:D (yes my teeth are still chattering).

Tlc Obsession FYI.........I don't have the measurements but the drivetrain is SBC 283, AA adapter, 78 TLC t-case and 4spd Tranny. From the looks of the shaft welding the P.O. cut about 4" out of the front shaft and grafted it into the rear:rasta:

Please excuse my uneducated ramblings, I'm going to study drive shafts now;)
 

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I recently had a shitty "machine shop" (farm and ranch thing here) try to do my drivelines and got them back unbalanced, no inspection, too short, no OH of U joints, and days late- I would really advise you to use a driveline shop (see yellowpages). It is worth the drive, trust me.
 

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$175 for a retube and a balance?? Holy shit man....that's nuts. I took the shaft I used for the front, to Driveline service in Carson City and got it retubed, balanced and 3 new u-joints installed (I had em, they just installed em for me) for $100. I gotta tell Dean to move to AL where he can charge twice as much. ;)

Got measure a stock front shaft. I bet it will work for you. Mine did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
:flipoff2:

Balancing ($42.00 per hr) 1-1.5 hrs quoted
Retube ($100-$175) depending on welding time

this was why my buddy (a welder) told me to just get a longer shaft and he would cut it down for me. The wobble I'm bitching about is not bad enough to make me spend a chunk of money so FAWK IT;)
 
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