I'm researching doing a triangulated 4 link in the rear of TJ. I'm planning on using the big RE super-flex joints at the frame ends, and the M.O.R.E. bushings at the axle ends. Will these give the links sufficient range of motion?
we've installed the Clayton kit -- it works great -- mine picture above is not a Clayton kit, but I will say that I certainly learned what I could from his design...and then adapted it for double-triangulation (look at my buddy's hand througth the spring and you will see the angle/location of the lower links), 113", and a 3-link front
here's the Clayton single triangulated installed in a TJ
So the question remains, which joints at which ends? I like the RE joints for the range of motion, and the MORE rubber bushings for the cushioning. So which joints at which ends? We're talking plain old vanilla triangulated long-arm 4-link folks.
I will have a very similar set up to Vols with the exception of running the large RE joints front and rear on the links. I too am using 2x2 .250 wall square tubing. I'll break a link before I bend that shiat, and its heavy so I'll have some more weight down low. Look for a tread next week on the build up, Astar and I are doing it.
I wanted a suspension that would not bind. I also wanted to run bushings on one end to save money...I drew it up in autocad and the setup I had was gonna bind unless I used some sort of joint on each end. So I am running 2.5" Johnny Joints...threaded on one side non threaded on the other...a pic.
lower links are 1.5" .250 DOM sleeved with 1.75" .120 DOM
uppers are just 1.5" .250 DOM
I used heims at both end when I made the double triangulated setup on my CJ6. When it was done I could see that it was not necessary. I likely did not need anything but bushings or rubber mounts. I keep my coils captured though. If you keep the links in line with the mounts, there is very little bind at all. With a bushing on one end and some type of flex joint on the other, you should be fine.
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