[Lil Uzi]

I am looking past the dark, foggy, cold months ahead to next summer and the 'RubeCon. I am at the point where my Isuzu Amigo with Toy soild axle leaf front spring over either stays "as is" or moves on to better, custom things ahead. Considering welding up Rocker panel bars, front winch and rear bumpers, re-locating shock mounts, moving leaf springs and even extending the frame forward to enable longer (limited to 38" now) front leafs.... All that stuff. Do you remember starting on this road ? Which Welder ? Am total rookie.......Plan to keep set up for a long time...
Miller Xp 130 Mig/Flux core $550.00
LincPak 100 Flux core $325.00
Lincoln 225 "Stick Arc" $225.00
OxyActeylene w/o bottles $125.00

I have 220-VAC available....
Appreciate comments from those that weld ..........

<IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

 

[zags]

You definately want 220v. I would set 230 amp as a minimum for size. MIG with gas is also is worth the $$. The 110 volt welders are too small for the type of structural welding on most 4x4s. You want to be able to do 1/4" on a single pass no problem. Of course thats just the start. You are going to want a chop saw, torches, grinders, drill press, ect. ect.

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: zags ]

 

[crawler#976]

IMHO:

Don't get a 110v box.

Save up just a little more money and find a 230V gas sheilded setup like the Lincoln 170. I paid $850.00 for mine including a 20lb CO2 bottle and regulator. You'll get much better performance for not alot more money, and NO SPALTER from flux core wire. You'll get a much cleaner, better penatrating weld.

I also see some really nice 230v stick welders in the paper used for as low as a hundered dollars. if you take the time to learn how to use one, they are great too! The learning curve just takes a little longer.

later

 

[Lil Uzi]

Thnx Crawler and Zags. The prevailing opinion from this BBS is 110VAC "Mig" (flux-core). The $325 Home Depot LincPak 100 looks easy. I tried a Flux core demo, woila, a bead!! Seems an ARC or Buzz box costs less, and the technique more applicable to trail fixes, via Battery-stick emergency welds. The xtra $$$ saved on the welder could buy the T-case low gears... Lah De Dah. Thnx Again <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/blender.gif" border="0">

 

[zags]

Did I miss something <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

 

[crawler#976]

woooooooooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhh

that the sound of that one goin' right on over my head, missed me by that much! <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

 

[ErikB]

I plan on buying a Millermatic 175 from www.welders-direct.com- $635 shipped, w/ a free cart too (through Dec.). <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

The Hobart 175 is nearly the same machine for $565, but doesn't have the infinite voltage adjustment.

110V MIG's are OK, but the duty cycle sucks and you have to make multiple passes on thicker stuff, especially if you're using gas and not flux core.

[edit] So make sure you get a 220V machine. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: Erik Beeb ]

 

[morpheus]

I have the Hobart 175 ($550 at cyberweld) but would have definitely gotten the comparable Millermatic had they had those deals back then.

- jack

 

[OOP'S]

Get either the Millermatic 175 or the Lincoln SP175 both are 220V. I paid about $800.00 for my Lincoln a couple of years ago and that was with a cart, large Argon bottle, and 12 pounds of wire. You do not want Oxy/Ace for the type of work you are going to do. If you get a stick welder get an AC/DC unit. Much easier to work with on stick DC and if you have to use batteries to weld on the trail that is DC also!! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[Sargey]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43025 is this totally cheap junk, or hard to get parts for?for the price its almost the same 170 not 175.

[ 11-02-2001: Message edited by: BlacknBlue ]

 

[zags]

Stay with a good brand name. (Miller, Lincoln, Esab ect.) Migs go through alot of consumable parts like tips, nozzles, and stuff. It sucks if the local welding shop doesnt carry the parts you need. Anything I buy from harbor freight, I consider disposable. A good brand name welder will last a lifetime.

 

[LOKNLOD]

I just bought that Miller 175...
My first MIG and I really like it. Welds nice, very easy to use and get all hooked up, all you need is the gas, comes with the regulator and everything.
I have a friend who works as a welder and he thought it was a good machine, too.

 

[Sargey]

ok <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

 

[zags]

Another thought on welders- Be sure the one you buy has copper windings. all the better brands will. Some cheaper ones (Hobart) use aluminum and are prone to burning out.

 

[Lil Uzi]

Thnx for yur input. Given the @$$$, involved, I am fortunate that I can rent these welders to try 1st on some scrap. Wish I had the time for a weld class at the JC. I'll get some more scrap and light em up. I just hate learnin the hard way. Signed, sparky !!!!

 

[deleon87]

is'nt there a lincoln 155 too, i think thats what mine is and it was only 450.oo 220v welds 1/2" from what it saids thought i never passed 1/4 nice welder though never will get rid of it, but as Lil Uzi said stick welding something you want to learn too for the trail fixes. thinking of going to a community clooage soon to learn to weld better than i can now for when i do my SAS hopefully this comming up year.

 

[OOP'S]

Originally posted by deleon87:
[QB] thinking of going to a community clooage soon /QB]

Might want to take a spelling class also Luis!!! JK <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

 

[Rubicrawler]

I have a Lincoln SP175 Plus mig and a Lincoln AC225 stick welder. IMO, I'd pass on the 110v migs and save up for the 220v unit. You'll be much happier in the long run.

Lincoln, Hobart, Miller all make quality products.

 

[ErikB]

Originally posted by zags:
<STRONG>Another thought on welders- Be sure the one you buy has copper windings. all the better brands will. Some cheaper ones (Hobart) use aluminum and are prone to burning out.</STRONG>

From what I read in the General section a while back, most all new welders have aluminum windings... for some reason the aluminum windings produce better welds...?
Do a search for the actual post/info...

 

[zags]

Originally posted by Erik Beeb:
<STRONG>From what I read in the General section a while back, most all new welders have aluminum windings... for some reason the aluminum windings produce better welds...?
Do a search for the actual post/info...</STRONG>

I went back and checked that out. I think you may have misunderstood what they were saying. All copper is better, but after doing some searching, I see only industrial ($$$$)ones come all copper anymore. The miller 175 seems like a good unit for home use.